Wheel Bearing - Press-In Rear

This procedure covers removal and replacement of a press-in style rear wheel bearing on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 4WD with 3.5L EcoBoost engine, requiring hub removal and hydraulic press work.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear wheel bearing assembly (press-in type) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Axle seal (inner) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pin for axle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Brake cleaner spray × 1 — Non-chlorinated type
• High-temperature wheel bearing grease × 1 — NLGI Grade 2

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Chock front wheels securely
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
4. Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame contact points
5. Remove rear wheels completely
6. Verify you have a press-in bearing hub by inspecting the assembly - hub bolts attach hub to axle flange, bearing is pressed into knuckle

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the two brake caliper bracket bolts and remove caliper assembly. Hang caliper from frame or suspension using wire or caliper hanger to avoid stressing brake hose. Remove brake rotor by pulling straight off hub. If rotor is stuck, use penetrating oil and tap with rubber mallet.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS sensor
   Locate ABS wheel speed sensor on rear knuckle or backing plate. Disconnect electrical connector. Remove ABS sensor mounting bolt and carefully extract sensor from housing. Inspect sensor tip for damage and clean with brake cleaner if reusing.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove axle nut and cotter pin
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the axle nut castle nut. Use a 36mm socket and breaker bar to remove the axle nut. This nut is torqued to 184 lb-ft and may require significant force. Discard the cotter pin - a new one will be installed during reassembly.
   ⚠Do not reuse the axle nut cotter pin. Always install a new cotter pin.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove hub-to-axle mounting bolts
   Locate the hub mounting bolts on the backside of the hub assembly (typically 4 bolts). Use a socket and ratchet to remove all hub bolts. These are torqued to 86 lb-ft. Support the hub assembly as you remove the final bolt to prevent it from falling.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Extract hub assembly from knuckle
   With all fasteners removed, pull the hub assembly straight out from the knuckle. If hub is stuck in the bearing, use a slide hammer with hub puller adapter or carefully tap the axle shaft through the hub from behind to push it out. The outer bearing race will remain pressed into the knuckle.
6. 6

   Remove old bearing races from knuckle
   With hub removed, use a punch and hammer to drive out the inner and outer bearing races from the knuckle bore. Work around the race evenly, alternating tap points to prevent binding. Clean the bearing bore thoroughly with brake cleaner and wire brush. Inspect bore for scoring, cracks, or damage. Measure bore diameter if equipment available.
   ⚠Do not damage the knuckle bearing bore surface. Grooves or scoring in the bore will prevent proper bearing seating and cause premature failure.
7. 7

   Remove old bearing from hub (if applicable)
   If the inner bearing race remained on the hub during removal, use a hydraulic press to separate it. Support the hub on press blocks and press the race off using appropriate sized driver that contacts only the race, not the hub surface. Clean hub thoroughly and inspect hub mounting surface and splines for damage or wear.
8. 8

   Install new bearing outer race into knuckle
   Using a hydraulic press and proper bearing race installation sleeve (contacts outer edge of race only), press the new outer bearing race into the knuckle bore. Ensure race is square and aligned before applying pressure. Press until race is fully seated against the shoulder in the bore. Verify race is seated evenly all around by checking depth with a straightedge.
   ⚠️Use only proper bearing installation tools that contact the race edge. Pressing on the wrong surface will destroy the bearing.
9. 9

   Pack bearing and install inner race
   Pack the new bearing completely with high-temperature wheel bearing grease, working grease into all roller or ball elements. Position the bearing into the installed outer race in the knuckle. If bearing design uses a separate inner race on the hub, press it onto the hub using the hydraulic press with appropriate driver sleeve that contacts only the race inner diameter. Ensure hub and race are perfectly aligned.
10. 10

    Install axle seal
    Clean the seal bore in the knuckle thoroughly. Apply a thin coat of grease to the new seal lip. Using a seal driver or appropriately sized socket, carefully tap or press the new inner axle seal into position until fully seated. Seal should be square and flush with the bore surface.
11. 11

    Reinstall hub assembly
    Apply a thin film of anti-seize or grease to the axle splines. Carefully slide the hub assembly into the bearing and onto the axle shaft, ensuring proper alignment of splines and hub face. Push hub fully into place by hand, ensuring it seats completely against the bearing inner race.
12. 12

    Install and torque hub bolts
    Thread all four hub mounting bolts through the backside and into the hub. Tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern to ensure even seating. Torque all hub bolts to 117 Nm (86 lb-ft) in multiple passes using a star pattern.
    ⚠Hub bolts are critical fasteners. Ensure torque specification is met accurately and tightening pattern is followed.
    Torque spec

    Hub Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Install and torque axle nut
    Thread the axle nut onto the axle shaft and tighten by hand. Using a torque wrench and 36mm socket, torque the axle nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft). Align the castle nut slots with the cotter pin hole in the axle shaft. If alignment is not perfect, tighten the nut slightly more (never loosen) until the next slot aligns. Install new cotter pin and bend ends securely.
    ⚠This is a critical torque specification. Never loosen the axle nut to align cotter pin holes - only tighten further to next alignment point.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Reinstall ABS sensor and brake components
    Clean ABS sensor bore and sensor tip with brake cleaner. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize to sensor body (not tip). Install sensor into bore and install mounting bolt, torquing to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Reconnect ABS sensor electrical connector. Reinstall brake rotor, ensuring it seats flush on hub. Reinstall brake caliper and bracket assembly, torquing mounting bolts to manufacturer specification.
    Torque spec

    ABS Sensor Bolt12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Install wheel and perform final checks
    Install wheel onto hub and thread all lug nuts by hand. Lower vehicle until tire just contacts ground to prevent wheel rotation. Torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) using a star pattern in multiple passes. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Perform final lug nut torque verification.
    ℹ️Lug nuts must be torqued in a star pattern to ensure even wheel seating and prevent rotor warping.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Double-check that all fasteners have been reinstalled and properly torqued, particularly the critical axle nut and hub bolts
2. Verify new cotter pin is properly installed and bent on axle nut
3. Ensure ABS sensor connector is fully seated and secured
4. Verify brake caliper mounting bolts are tight and caliper moves freely on slides

Verification

• Spin the wheel by hand - it should rotate freely without binding, grinding, or excessive play
• Grasp tire at 12 and 6 o'clock positions and attempt to rock wheel - there should be no perceptible play indicating loose bearing
• Test ABS sensor operation by starting vehicle and verifying ABS warning light follows normal startup sequence (on then off)
• Perform a test drive at low speed in a safe area, checking for unusual noises, vibration, or pulling
• After test drive (approximately 50 miles), re-torque wheel lug nuts to specification as new bearing may settle slightly

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