drivetrain
Axle Shaft - Rear
for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
4.8 h
Tools
13
Steps
14
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers removal and replacement of the rear axle shaft on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 4WD with independent rear suspension (IRS), including CV joint disconnection and axle nut service.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be properly supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠The rear axle nut is torqued to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) and requires significant force to remove. Ensure the vehicle is stable before applying breaking force.
⚠Gear oil may be hot if vehicle was recently driven. Allow adequate cooling time before draining.
ℹ️This procedure applies to 2011-2014 F-150 models equipped with independent rear suspension (IRS). Solid axle models use a different procedure.
Tools required
Torque wrench (30-300 Nm range)Essential
36mm axle nut socketEssential
Breaker barEssential
Drain pan (3 quart minimum)Essential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Wrenches (metric)Essential
Wheel chocksEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Rear axle shaft assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification for IRS equipped F-150
- Axle nut × 1 — Replace if staked type
- Cotter pin × 1 — If castellated nut type
- CV joint bolts × 6 — Replace if damaged
- Differential cover gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification if cover removal required
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Motorcraft 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil — 2 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks at front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground but do not remove
- If axle nut is staked type, use chisel or punch to unstake the nut collar while wheel is still on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight at frame contact points
- Remove rear wheel on affected side
- Mark driveshaft and differential flange positions for reassembly alignment if additional access is needed
Procedure
- 1Remove axle nutWith the wheel removed and vehicle securely supported, use a 36mm socket and breaker bar to remove the rear axle nut. If the nut is staked, ensure it has been properly unstaked. This nut is torqued to 250 Nm and will require significant force. Remove the cotter pin first if equipped with castellated nut type.
- 2Disconnect brake caliper and rotorRemove the brake caliper mounting bolts and secure the caliper to the suspension or frame using wire or a bungee cord. Do not let it hang by the brake hose. Remove the brake rotor. Mark the rotor orientation if it will be reused to maintain balance.
- 3Disconnect wheel speed sensorLocate the ABS wheel speed sensor connector near the knuckle or control arm. Disconnect the electrical connector and carefully remove any retaining clips securing the sensor wire to the axle shaft or suspension components. Note the routing for reinstallation.
- 4Mark CV joint orientationBefore removing the CV joint bolts, mark the relationship between the inner CV joint flange and the differential flange using paint or a scribe. This ensures proper reassembly alignment and maintains driveline balance.
- 5Remove CV joint boltsRemove the six bolts securing the inner CV joint to the differential output flange. These bolts are typically 12-point and may require an external Torx or triple-square bit depending on model year. Support the axle shaft to prevent it from dropping when the last bolt is removed.⚠Support the axle shaft before removing the final bolt to prevent damage to CV joint or surrounding components.Torque specCV Bolts76 Nm (56 lb-ft)
- 6Remove axle shaft from hubPull the outer end of the axle shaft from the wheel hub assembly. If the shaft is stuck in the hub splines, use a brass drift or soft mallet to tap the end of the shaft while pulling outward. Do not use excessive force or damage to the hub bearing may occur. You may need to push the shaft from behind once the inner CV is separated.
- 7Remove axle shaft assemblyCarefully maneuver the complete axle shaft assembly out from between the suspension components and differential. The shaft must be angled and rotated to clear the control arms and frame members. Inspect the CV boots for tears, cracks, or leaking grease. Check the axle shaft for any signs of damage, bending, or wear.
- 8Inspect differential seal and fluid levelWith the axle removed, inspect the differential output seal for leaks or damage. Check the differential fluid level through the fill plug. If fluid leaked during axle removal or seal replacement is needed, drain and refill the differential with 2.0 quarts of Motorcraft 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil.
- 9Prepare new axle shaftInspect the new axle shaft for shipping damage. Ensure CV boots are intact and properly secured. Lightly grease the splines on the outer end that insert into the hub bearing. Clean the hub splines with a wire brush and inspect for damage or wear.
- 10Install axle shaft into hubGuide the outer end of the new axle shaft through the suspension components and carefully insert the splined end into the wheel hub. Push the shaft fully into the hub until it seats. Do not force it; if resistance is met, check for proper spline alignment.
- 11Connect inner CV joint to differentialAlign the inner CV joint flange with the differential output flange using the alignment marks made during disassembly. Start all six CV joint bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 76 Nm (56 lb-ft) using a torque wrench.⚠Ensure alignment marks match before tightening bolts to maintain driveline balance.Torque specCV Bolts76 Nm (56 lb-ft)
- 12Install and torque axle nutInstall the new axle nut (or cleaned original if cotter pin type) onto the axle shaft. Torque the nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft). If using a staked nut type, stake the nut collar into the axle shaft groove using a chisel and hammer. If using a castellated nut, align the slots with the cotter pin hole and install a new cotter pin, bending the ends properly.⚠The axle nut is critical to bearing preload and hub retention. Verify proper torque and locking method.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 13Reinstall brake components and wheel sensorReinstall the brake rotor in its original orientation if marked. Install the brake caliper and torque the mounting bolts to specification. Reconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor electrical connector and secure the wiring using the original clips and routing path.
- 14Install wheel and lower vehicleInstall the rear wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Torque the wheel lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all fasteners have been properly torqued per specifications
- Ensure ABS sensor wiring is properly routed and secured away from moving components and heat sources
- Check differential fluid level and top off with Motorcraft 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil if needed
- Double-check that the axle nut is properly staked or cotter pin is installed and secured
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area and listen for abnormal noises from the rear axle or CV joints
- Verify ABS warning light is not illuminated and wheel speed sensor is functioning
- Check for gear oil leaks around the differential output seal after test drive
- Perform a figure-eight turning test at low speed to verify proper CV joint operation without binding or clicking
- Re-check wheel lug nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving