Brake Hose - Rear

Replace the rear brake hose on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 4WD, including brake fluid bleeding and system verification.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake hose × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent DOT-compliant brake hose
• Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — OEM Ford banjo bolt washers (2 per hose)
• Brake hose retaining clip (if equipped) × 1 — Inspect existing clip for damage

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface, engage parking brake, and place wheel chocks on front wheels
2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove
3. Lift rear of vehicle using floor jack at approved jacking points and secure with jack stands rated for vehicle weight
4. Remove rear wheel completely
5. Open brake fluid reservoir and use turkey baster or suction tool to remove approximately half the fluid to prevent overflow during service
6. Identify which rear brake hose requires replacement (driver or passenger side)
7. Spray penetrating oil on banjo bolt, bracket bolt, and any retaining hardware; allow to soak 10-15 minutes

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove banjo bolt at caliper
   Locate the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose to the rear caliper. Place a drain pan underneath to catch brake fluid. Using a flare nut wrench or box-end wrench, loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Immediately plug the caliper port with a clean rag or rubber cap to minimize fluid loss and contamination. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from the banjo fitting.
2. 2

   Disconnect hose from brake line at frame bracket
   Locate the brake hose connection point at the frame bracket where the flexible hose meets the hard brake line. Using a flare nut wrench on the brake line fitting to prevent rounding, hold the hose-side fitting stationary while loosening the connection. Catch any dripping brake fluid in the drain pan. If a retaining clip secures the hose to the bracket, remove it using pliers or appropriate tool.
3. 3

   Remove brake hose bracket mounting
   If the brake hose is secured to a bracket with a separate bolt or clip, remove this hardware. On F-150 models, the hose typically passes through a bracket mounted to the frame or axle housing. Remove any bolts or clips securing the hose bracket, taking note of the routing path and any grommets or insulators for reinstallation.
4. 4

   Remove old brake hose
   Carefully remove the brake hose from the vehicle, noting its exact routing path, any support clips, and orientation. Inspect the removed hose for the cause of failure (cracks, bulging, chafing, corrosion at fittings). Take a photo if needed for reference during installation. Inspect the hard brake line fitting threads and caliper port for damage or corrosion; clean with wire brush if needed.
5. 5

   Prepare new brake hose
   Unpack the new brake hose and verify it matches the original in length, fitting type, and bracket configuration. Install NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting—one on each side of the banjo bolt head and caliper port. Do not reuse old washers. Ensure all fittings are clean and free of debris or protective caps.
6. 6

   Route and position new brake hose
   Route the new brake hose through the bracket(s) following the exact path of the original hose. Ensure the hose is not twisted, kinked, or contacting any suspension components, exhaust, or sharp edges. The hose must have sufficient slack to accommodate full suspension travel without stretching. Install any retaining clips or grommets in their original positions.
7. 7

   Install brake hose bracket
   If the hose has a separate mounting bracket, install it to the frame or axle housing. Ensure the bracket is properly oriented and the hose can move freely without binding. Hand-tighten the bracket bolt initially, then torque to specification using a calibrated torque wrench.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Bracket24 Nm (18 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Connect brake hose to hard line at frame
   Thread the brake hose fitting into the hard brake line at the frame bracket connection point. Start the threads by hand to ensure proper engagement and prevent cross-threading. Use a flare nut wrench to tighten the connection until snug. Do not overtighten as this is a flare fitting on brake line—tighten firmly but do not strip threads.
9. 9

   Install banjo bolt at caliper
   Position the banjo fitting against the caliper inlet port with NEW copper crush washers on both sides (one between banjo and caliper, one between banjo and bolt head). Insert the banjo bolt and hand-thread it completely. Ensure the hose orientation allows proper routing without twisting. Using a torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to specification.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Bleed rear brake circuit
    Attach a clear hose to the caliper bleeder screw and route it into a container with clean brake fluid to prevent air intake. Have an assistant slowly pump the brake pedal 3-5 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw approximately 1/2 turn while assistant maintains pedal pressure. Close bleeder before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until fluid flows clear without air bubbles (typically 10-15 cycles). Tighten bleeder screw to specification when complete.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw17 Nm (13 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Refill brake fluid reservoir
    Check the brake fluid reservoir level frequently during bleeding process. Top off with fresh Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid to the MAX line. Never allow reservoir to run dry during bleeding as this introduces air into the entire system. Ensure reservoir cap is properly sealed when refilling is complete.
12. 12

    Inspect all connections for leaks
    With the bleeder screw closed, have an assistant apply firm, steady pressure to the brake pedal (do not pump). Inspect the banjo bolt connection at the caliper and the flare fitting at the frame bracket for any signs of brake fluid seepage. Check the bracket mounting area as well. Any leakage requires immediate correction—do not proceed if leaks are present.
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Mount the rear wheel onto the hub, ensuring the mating surface is clean. Install all lug nuts by hand in a star pattern. Using a torque wrench, tighten lug nuts to specification in a star pattern (tighten opposite nuts alternately to ensure even seating). Remove jack stands and carefully lower vehicle to ground. Perform final lug nut torque verification with vehicle weight on ground.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts169 Nm (125 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Double-check all brake line connections are tight and leak-free
2. Verify brake hose has proper clearance from suspension components through full travel range (have assistant turn wheel lock-to-lock and bounce suspension)
3. Ensure brake fluid reservoir is filled to MAX line with Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid
4. Confirm all tools and materials are removed from under vehicle and wheel well area

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal firmly 10-15 times. Pedal should become firm and hold pressure without sinking. Soft or spongy pedal indicates air in system—repeat bleeding procedure
• Start engine and verify brake pedal remains firm with power assist active. Pedal should not sink when held under constant pressure for 30 seconds
• Perform test stops in a safe area at low speed (5-10 mph) to verify proper brake function before normal driving
• Check for leaks at all connection points after test stops. Inspect banjo bolt and frame connection while assistant applies brake pedal pressure
• Road test vehicle at progressively higher speeds in safe conditions, verifying straight stopping with no pulling to either side
• After first 25-50 miles, re-inspect all brake connections for leaks and verify lug nut torque
• If pedal feel is abnormal, vehicle pulls during braking, or any leaks are detected, do not drive—seek professional diagnosis immediately

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