5.0L V8 Coyote4WDAUTOMATICgas
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brakes

Brake Rotors - Rear Pair

for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.3 h
Tools
13
Steps
15
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace rear brake rotors on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 4WD by removing calipers and caliper brackets, installing new rotors, and properly torquing all fasteners.

Warnings

⚠️Brake system failure can result in death or serious injury. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠️Do not allow brake calipers to hang by the brake hose. This can damage the hose and cause brake failure.
Brake dust may contain asbestos. Do not blow off with compressed air. Use brake cleaner and dispose of waste properly.
Verify brake pedal is firm and travels less than halfway to floor before driving vehicle. Perform multiple low-speed brake tests in a safe area.
ℹ️This procedure does not require bleeding brakes if brake hoses are not disconnected. Do not press brake pedal while calipers are removed.

Tools required

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Parts

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Fluids

  • Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground and place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
  2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove
  3. Lift rear of vehicle with floor jack at rear differential or frame rail jacking points
  4. Place jack stands under frame rails behind rear axle and lower vehicle onto stands
  5. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside
  6. Verify parking brake is NOT engaged
  7. Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir and note level for later comparison

Procedure

  1. 1
    Compress caliper piston
    Before removing caliper, use a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool to slowly compress the caliper piston back into the caliper bore. Place the clamp on the back of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad. Compress slowly to push brake fluid back into the master cylinder. This makes caliper removal easier and prevents damage during removal.
  2. 2
    Remove caliper slide pin bolts
    Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the inboard side of the caliper. Use a 15mm socket to remove both slide pin bolts completely. The caliper will now be free from the caliper bracket. Note the condition of the slide pin boots for reinstallation.
    Support the caliper immediately after removing the second bolt to prevent it from falling and damaging the brake hose.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  3. 3
    Support and secure caliper
    Carefully lift the caliper with brake pads off the rotor. Do NOT let it hang by the brake hose. Use wire, a bungee cord, or a caliper hanger to suspend the caliper from the suspension or frame. Ensure there is no tension or strain on the rubber brake hose. The caliper should hang freely without pulling on the hose.
  4. 4
    Remove brake pads and hardware
    Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket if they came off with the caliper, or remove them from the bracket. Note the position of any anti-rattle clips or shims for reinstallation. Set pads aside if reusing. Inspect pad thickness and condition - replace if less than 3mm remaining or if wearing unevenly.
  5. 5
    Remove caliper bracket bolts
    Using an 18mm socket, remove the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the axle flange. These bolts are torqued very tight and may require significant force or a breaker bar. Remove both bolts completely and remove the caliper bracket from the axle.
    These bolts are very tight. Ensure socket is fully seated to avoid rounding the bolt heads. Use a 6-point socket if possible.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Bracket Bolts201 Nm (148 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Remove rotor set screws and rotor
    If present, remove the rotor set screw(s) using a T30 Torx bit. These are often corroded and may strip or break - this is normal. If stripped, they can be drilled out. Once set screws are removed, pull the rotor straight off the hub. If rotor is stuck due to rust, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet or use the threaded holes (if present) to press the rotor off with bolts.
    Torque spec
    Rotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
  7. 7
    Clean hub surface
    Use a wire brush or abrasive pad to thoroughly clean the hub mounting surface where the rotor seats. Remove all rust, corrosion, and debris. The surface must be clean and flat to prevent rotor runout and pulsation. Use brake cleaner to remove any remaining debris and oil residue. Dry completely.
  8. 8
    Install new rotor
    Remove any protective coating from the new rotor using brake cleaner - both the friction surfaces and the hat. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the hub face (NOT the rotor friction surface). Slide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning any set screw holes. If using set screws, install and torque to specification - these are only to hold the rotor during assembly and are not structural.
    Do not get anti-seize or any lubricant on the rotor friction surfaces. Clean thoroughly with brake cleaner if contaminated.
    Torque spec
    Rotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Position the caliper bracket onto the axle flange, aligning the bolt holes. Install both caliper bracket bolts and thread them in by hand first to ensure proper thread engagement. Apply medium-strength thread locker to the bolt threads if desired. Torque both bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern using a calibrated torque wrench.
    ⚠️Caliper bracket bolts MUST be torqued to specification. Under-torqued bolts can loosen and cause complete brake failure.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Bracket Bolts201 Nm (148 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Reinstall brake pads and hardware
    Install any anti-rattle clips or shims back into the caliper bracket in their original positions. Slide the brake pads into the bracket, ensuring the friction material faces the rotor. Inner and outer pads may be different - verify correct orientation. Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to pad slide points on the bracket (not friction surfaces).
  11. 11
    Prepare and reinstall caliper
    Inspect caliper slide pins and boots for damage. Clean slide pins and apply fresh silicone brake grease to the pins and inside the boots. Position the caliper over the brake pads and rotor. Align the slide pin bolt holes and install both slide pin bolts. Thread by hand first, then torque to specification.
    Ensure slide pins move freely and boots are not torn. Damaged boots allow contamination and will cause caliper binding.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Repeat for opposite side
    Repeat steps 1 through 11 for the opposite rear wheel to replace the second rotor. Always replace rotors in pairs (both rear). Ensure all torque specifications are followed on both sides.
  13. 13
    Reinstall wheels
    Clean wheel mounting surface on rotor hat. Position wheel onto hub and install all lug nuts by hand. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern until snug, but do not fully torque while vehicle is on jack stands. Repeat for second wheel.
  14. 14
    Lower vehicle and torque wheels
    Raise vehicle slightly with floor jack to remove jack stands. Lower vehicle completely to the ground. Using a calibrated torque wrench, torque all wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern (criss-cross). Go around the pattern at least twice to ensure even torque distribution.
    ⚠️Improperly torqued lug nuts can cause wheel separation while driving. Always use a torque wrench and star pattern.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
  15. 15
    Restore brake pedal and check fluid
    With vehicle on ground, pump the brake pedal slowly several times until it becomes firm. This repositions the caliper pistons against the new rotors. Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir - it should be near the original level noted during preparation. Add Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid if needed to bring to MAX line. Do not overfill.
    ⚠️Do NOT start engine or attempt to drive until brake pedal is firm. If pedal goes to floor, do not drive vehicle - diagnose issue immediately.

Reassembly

  1. All torque specifications are included in the main procedure steps
  2. Ensure no tools or parts were left in wheel well area
  3. Verify both rear wheels are properly torqued and secure

Verification

  • Pump brake pedal until firm - pedal should not travel more than halfway to floor and should feel solid
  • Check brake fluid reservoir level - should be between MIN and MAX marks
  • Start engine and verify brake pedal remains firm with engine running
  • Perform multiple low-speed brake tests (5-10 mph) in a safe area to verify proper brake function
  • Listen for any unusual noises - light squealing may be normal during break-in, but grinding or metal-on-metal is not
  • Perform bed-in procedure: make 10-15 gentle stops from 30 mph with moderate pedal pressure, allowing brakes to cool between stops
  • After 50-100 miles, re-torque wheel lug nuts to specification
  • Inspect for any brake fluid leaks around calipers and verify rotors have even contact pattern

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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More procedures for this vehicle

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