cooling
Coolant Reservoir
for 2012 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · 4WD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Easy
Time
42 min
Tools
7
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace the engine coolant reservoir on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8 Coyote engine, including draining coolant, removing the old reservoir, installing the new reservoir, and refilling the cooling system.
Warnings
⚠️Never open the cooling system when the engine is hot. Pressurized coolant can cause severe burns. Allow engine to cool completely for at least 2 hours before beginning work.
⚠Ethylene glycol coolant is toxic to pets and wildlife. Clean up all spills immediately and dispose of old coolant properly at a recycling center.
ℹ️The 5.0L Coyote engine requires Motorcraft Orange Premium Coolant (yellow color). Do not mix with other coolant types or colors.
Tools required
10mm socket and ratchetEssential
Flat blade screwdriverEssential
Torque wrench (5-20 Nm range)Essential
FunnelEssential
Shop towelsEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Coolant reservoir with cap × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Coolant reservoir mounting bolts × 2 — Replace if damaged
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Motorcraft Orange Coolant — 2 qt
Preparation
- Ensure engine is completely cold to the touch before starting work
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
- Place drain pan under the radiator drain petcock location on passenger side of radiator
- Locate the coolant reservoir on the driver side of the engine bay, mounted to the inner fender well
- Have replacement coolant and funnel ready for refill procedure
Procedure
- 1Drain cooling systemOpen the radiator drain petcock located at the bottom passenger side of the radiator by turning counterclockwise. Allow coolant to drain into the drain pan. You do not need to drain the entire system, just enough to lower the coolant level below the reservoir outlet hose connection (approximately 2-3 quarts).Torque specDrain Petcock8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 2Remove reservoir cap and pressure reliefSlowly remove the coolant reservoir cap to release any residual pressure in the system. Set the cap aside in a clean location for reuse with the new reservoir if the new reservoir does not include a cap.⚠Even when cool, some pressure may remain. Turn cap slowly and allow any pressure to release before fully removing.
- 3Disconnect reservoir hosesLocate the lower radiator hose connection and upper overflow hose at the reservoir. Use hose clamp pliers or a flat blade screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps by squeezing (spring clamps) or turning the screw counterclockwise (worm gear clamps). Slide clamps back on hoses away from reservoir connections. Twist and pull hoses off the reservoir nipples. Some residual coolant will drain from the lower hose.Torque specHose Clamps5 Nm (4 lb-ft)
- 4Remove reservoir mounting boltsUsing a 10mm socket, remove the two mounting bolts securing the coolant reservoir to the inner fender well bracket. The reservoir is mounted vertically with bolts at the top and middle positions.Torque specReservoir Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 5Remove old reservoirLift the reservoir upward and out of the engine bay. Tilt it to drain any remaining coolant into your drain pan. Inspect the mounting bracket on the inner fender for cracks or damage. Clean the mounting area with a shop towel.
- 6Prepare new reservoirRemove the new reservoir from packaging and inspect it for cracks or defects. Verify that all hose nipples are clean and free of debris. Transfer the cap from the old reservoir if the new one does not include a cap. Check that mounting bolt holes align with the fender bracket.
- 7Install new reservoirPosition the new reservoir into the mounting bracket on the inner fender well, aligning the mounting holes. Insert the two mounting bolts and hand-tighten them. Using a torque wrench, tighten the mounting bolts to specification in a top-to-bottom sequence.Torque specReservoir Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 8Reconnect coolant hosesPush the lower radiator hose and upper overflow hose onto the new reservoir nipples until fully seated. Slide the hose clamps back into position over the hose-to-nipple connection points (approximately 1/4 inch from the end of each hose). Tighten hose clamps to specification using a torque wrench if using worm gear clamps, or ensure spring clamps are fully seated and compressed.Torque specHose Clamps5 Nm (4 lb-ft)
- 9Close radiator drainClose the radiator drain petcock by turning clockwise until hand-tight, then verify torque specification. Do not overtighten as the petcock is plastic and can crack.⚠Drain petcock is plastic. Tighten to specification only - overtightening will crack the component.Torque specDrain Petcock8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 10Refill cooling systemUsing a funnel, pour Motorcraft Orange coolant into the reservoir until it reaches the COLD FILL MAX line on the side of the reservoir. If the system was significantly drained, you may also need to add coolant directly to the radiator fill neck. Fill the radiator until coolant is visible at the bottom of the fill neck threads.
- 11Bleed air from cooling systemLocate the coolant bleed screw on the thermostat housing on the front of the engine (passenger side). Slowly open the bleed screw 1-2 turns counterclockwise. Start the engine and allow it to idle with the radiator cap off. Continue adding coolant to the radiator as the level drops. When coolant flows steadily from the bleed screw without air bubbles, close the bleed screw to specification. Install the radiator cap.⚠Do not allow engine to overheat during bleeding process. Monitor temperature gauge and shut off engine if it approaches operating temperature before bleeding is complete.Torque specBleed Screw8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 12Complete air purge cycleAllow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (approximately 190-200°F) while monitoring the temperature gauge. The electric cooling fans should cycle on. Rev the engine to 2500 RPM several times to help purge any remaining air. Shut off the engine and allow it to cool for 15 minutes. Check coolant level in reservoir and add coolant to the COLD FILL MAX line if needed.
Reassembly
- No additional reassembly required beyond the installation steps above
- Ensure reservoir cap is securely installed after final coolant level check
- Verify all hose clamps are tight and positioned correctly over hose connections
Verification
- Inspect all hose connections at the reservoir for leaks with engine running at operating temperature
- Check that coolant level in reservoir is between MIN and MAX marks when cold
- Verify no coolant leaks from the radiator drain petcock
- Confirm cooling fans cycle on when engine reaches operating temperature
- After first drive cycle (10-20 miles), recheck coolant level when cold and top off if necessary
- Monitor temperature gauge during first few drives to ensure engine maintains normal operating temperature without overheating
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0115Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor 1 CircuitP0116ECT Sensor 1 Circuit Range/PerformanceP0125Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel ControlP0128Coolant Thermostat Below Regulating TemperatureP1116ECT Sensor Out of Self-Test RangeP1117ECT Sensor IntermittentP2600Coolant Pump A Control Circuit OpenP2601Coolant Pump A Control Circuit Range/Performance
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