This procedure covers the removal and replacement of both front brake rotors on a 2011-2014 Ford F-150 with 3.5L EcoBoost engine and 4WD, including caliper bracket removal and proper torque specifications.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake rotor × 2 — Use OEM or equivalent 331mm vented rotors for 3.5L EcoBoost 4WD
• Rotor set screws (if reusing) × 2 — T-30 Torx set screws

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and set parking brake firmly
2. Chock rear wheels to prevent vehicle movement
3. Open hood and locate brake fluid reservoir. Check fluid level and remove cap to allow fluid displacement when compressing caliper pistons
4. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is still on ground
5. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack using designated front jacking point
6. Place jack stands under solid frame rails on both sides. Lower vehicle onto jack stands
7. Remove front wheels completely and set aside

Procedure

1. 1

   Compress brake caliper piston
   Before removing the caliper, use a C-clamp or brake piston tool to slowly compress the caliper piston back into its bore. Place the clamp on the back of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad. Compress slowly to avoid damaging the piston seal. This makes caliper removal easier and is necessary for reinstallation with the new thicker rotor.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   Using an 18mm socket, remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (upper and lower) that secure the caliper to the bracket. These bolts thread into the slide pins on the back of the caliper. Keep these bolts as they will be reused. Note the condition of the slide pin boots for any tears or damage.
   ⚠Inspect slide pin boots during removal. Damaged boots allow moisture and dirt to contaminate the slide pins, causing caliper binding.
3. 3

   Support and remove caliper
   Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket and rotor. Do NOT let it hang by the brake hose. Immediately secure it to the suspension or frame using a wire hanger or bungee cord, ensuring no strain is placed on the brake hose. Position it out of your work area but without stretching or bending the brake line.
   ⚠️NEVER allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose. Internal damage to the hose can cause delayed brake failure.
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket bolts
   Using a 21mm socket and breaker bar, remove the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These bolts are torqued to high specification and may require significant force to break loose. The bracket will come off with the brake pads still installed if you are not replacing them.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove old brake rotor
   If present, remove the rotor set screws using a T-30 Torx bit. These screws are often corroded and may strip; apply penetrating oil and use firm pressure. If they strip, they can be drilled out. Once screws are removed (or if not present), pull the rotor off the hub. If stuck due to corrosion, strike the rotor face with a rubber mallet between the lug studs or use the rotor's threaded holes with bolts to press it off.
   ⚠When striking the rotor with a mallet, only hit between the lug studs on the rotor hat, never on the friction surface or lug studs themselves.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Clean hub surface
   With the rotor removed, thoroughly clean the hub mounting surface with a wire brush to remove all rust, corrosion, and debris. Any high spots or buildup will cause rotor runout and brake pulsation. Clean the lug stud threads and the center hub bore. Wipe clean with brake parts cleaner.
7. 7

   Prepare new rotor
   Remove the new rotor from packaging. New rotors have a protective anti-corrosion coating that MUST be removed. Spray both sides of the rotor thoroughly with brake parts cleaner and wipe with clean, lint-free rags. Repeat until no oily residue remains. Do not touch the friction surfaces with bare hands after cleaning.
   ⚠Failure to remove protective coating will cause severe brake noise, reduced stopping power, and rapid pad contamination.
8. 8

   Install new rotor
   Slide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the holes in the rotor with the wheel studs. Ensure the rotor sits completely flat against the hub surface with no gaps. If equipped with rotor set screws, install them and tighten to specification using the T-30 Torx bit. These screws only hold the rotor during assembly and are not critical to operation.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Clean and inspect caliper bracket
   Clean the caliper bracket thoroughly, paying special attention to the pad slide areas where the brake pad ears contact the bracket. Use a wire brush to remove rust and buildup. Inspect the stainless steel pad clips (abutment clips) if present; replace if damaged. Clean the bracket bolt threads and holes in the knuckle with a wire brush.
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolt threads. Position the bracket over the rotor and align with the bolt holes in the knuckle. Start both bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a torque wrench and 21mm socket, torque the bracket bolts to specification in a cross pattern.
    ⚠️Caliper bracket bolts are CRITICAL fasteners. Under-torquing can allow the bracket to detach under braking, causing complete brake failure. Always use a calibrated torque wrench.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bracket Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Prepare caliper slide pins
    Remove the caliper from its supported position. Clean the slide pins and their bores in the bracket with brake parts cleaner. Inspect the rubber boots for tears or damage. Apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease to the slide pin shafts (NOT the threaded bolt portion). Ensure the pins move freely in their bores.
12. 12

    Reinstall caliper
    Position the caliper over the brake pads and rotor, aligning the slide pin bolt holes. Start both caliper slide pin bolts by hand. Using a torque wrench and 18mm socket, torque the slide pin bolts to specification. Ensure the caliper moves freely on the slide pins by pushing it back and forth.
    ⚠Apply silicone brake grease only to the slide pin shafts, never to the bolt threads or brake pad surfaces. Improper lubrication causes caliper binding.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1 through 12 on the opposite front wheel to replace the second rotor. Both front rotors should always be replaced as a pair to maintain balanced braking performance.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheels
    Mount both front wheels onto the hubs, aligning the wheel holes with the lug studs. Install all lug nuts by hand, threading them as far as possible. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern using a hand wrench only at this stage (do not final torque yet).
15. 15

    Lower vehicle and final torque
    Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack to remove weight from the jack stands. Remove jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle completely to the ground. Using a torque wrench and 19mm socket, torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern (not in a circle). Go around the star pattern twice to ensure even torque.
    ⚠️Lug nuts must be torqued to specification in a star pattern. Improper torque or pattern can cause wheel detachment while driving.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Check brake fluid level in reservoir and top off with Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid if needed. Do not overfill.
2. Reinstall brake fluid reservoir cap securely
3. Do NOT drive the vehicle until completing the verification steps below

Verification

• Before starting the engine, pump the brake pedal firmly 10-15 times until it feels firm and high. The pedal should not go to the floor. This reseats the caliper pistons against the new rotors.
• With the engine running, press the brake pedal firmly and hold. The pedal should feel solid and not slowly sink. If it sinks, there is a problem - do not drive.
• Start the engine and perform a stationary brake check. The brake pedal should remain firm with the engine running.
• Perform a slow-speed test drive (under 10 mph) in a safe area, applying brakes gently to verify proper operation before normal driving.
• During the first 200 miles, avoid hard braking to allow proper break-in (bedding) of the new rotors and pads. Perform several moderate stops from 40 mph to properly bed the rotors.
• After 50-100 miles of driving, re-check wheel lug nut torque to ensure they remain properly tightened.
• Listen for any unusual brake noise (grinding, squealing beyond initial bedding period). Inspect for any fluid leaks around caliper and brake hose connections.
• If you experience brake pulsation, pulling to one side, unusual noises, or reduced braking performance, immediately have the system inspected by a professional.

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