3.5L V6 EcoBoostRWDAUTOMATICgasturbo
18 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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brakes

Brake Booster Check Valve

for 2017 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · RWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Easy
Time
24 min
Tools
4
Steps
8
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure replaces the brake booster check valve, which prevents vacuum loss from the brake booster and ensures proper brake assist function.

Warnings

⚠️Brake system failure can result in total loss of brake assist. Any errors in this procedure can cause brake performance degradation. If you are uncertain about any step, seek professional service immediately.
Engine must be OFF and cooled before beginning work. Hot engine components near the brake booster can cause burns.
Do not start the engine with the check valve removed or disconnected. This will cause a large vacuum leak and rough idle.
ℹ️The check valve is located on the brake booster at the vacuum hose connection point on the driver's side firewall.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
  2. Turn engine OFF and allow to cool if recently operated
  3. Open hood and secure with prop rod
  4. Locate brake booster on driver's side firewall - it is a large black canister behind the master cylinder
  5. Identify the vacuum hose connection on the front of the brake booster (runs from intake manifold to booster)
  6. Position shop light to illuminate work area clearly

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect vacuum hose condition
    Before removing anything, visually inspect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the brake booster for cracks, splits, or deterioration. The hose should be firm but flexible. If the hose is hard, cracked, or shows signs of oil contamination, plan to replace it along with the check valve.
  2. 2
    Disconnect vacuum hose from brake booster
    Grasp the vacuum hose firmly at the connection point on the brake booster. Pull straight out with a slight twisting motion to release it from the check valve. The hose is held by friction fit. If the hose is stuck, gently work it side to side while pulling. Do not use excessive force that could damage the booster nipple.
  3. 3
    Remove old check valve from booster
    The check valve is inserted into a rubber grommet in the brake booster housing. Grasp the check valve body firmly and pull straight out from the booster. You may need to twist slightly while pulling. If the valve is stuck, use needle-nose pliers to grip the valve body (not the nipple end). The rubber grommet may come out with the valve - this is normal.
  4. 4
    Inspect and clean grommet seat
    If the rubber grommet came out with the old valve, remove it from the valve and inspect for cracks or hardening. If damaged, replace with new grommet (typically included with new check valve). Clean the grommet seat in the booster housing with a clean rag to remove any debris or old rubber particles. Ensure the seat is clean and dry.
  5. 5
    Test new check valve function
    Before installation, verify the new check valve functions correctly. Blow air through the valve in both directions. Air should flow freely from the engine side (hose connection end) toward the booster side, but should be blocked or heavily restricted when trying to blow from the booster side back toward the engine side. This one-way function is critical for maintaining vacuum in the booster.
  6. 6
    Install grommet into booster if removed
    If the rubber grommet was removed from the booster, install it back into the booster housing opening. Ensure it is fully seated and flush with the booster surface. The grommet should sit evenly in the bore without gaps.
  7. 7
    Install new check valve
    Insert the new check valve into the booster grommet with the correct orientation - the tapered end with the hose connection nipple should face outward (toward the engine), and the flat or flanged end should seat into the grommet. Push the valve firmly into the grommet until it is fully seated. You should feel it click or seat firmly into place. The valve should not pull out easily when tugged.
  8. 8
    Reconnect vacuum hose
    Push the vacuum hose firmly onto the check valve nipple until it bottoms out. Ensure the connection is fully seated - you should feel the hose slide over the ridges on the nipple. Tug gently on the hose to verify it is secure and will not pull off during operation. If installing a new hose, ensure it routes correctly from the intake manifold without kinks or sharp bends.

Reassembly

  1. Verify all vacuum hose connections are secure at both the brake booster and intake manifold
  2. Ensure no tools or parts are left in the engine compartment
  3. Close hood securely

Verification

  • Start the engine and listen for vacuum leaks (hissing sound) around the brake booster area. There should be no audible leaks
  • With engine idling, verify smooth idle - a vacuum leak will cause rough idle or high idle speed
  • Press the brake pedal several times with the engine running. The pedal should feel firm with normal assist. There should be no excessive pedal travel or hard pedal feel
  • Turn the engine OFF and wait 1 minute. Press the brake pedal - you should get 2-3 power-assisted applications before the pedal becomes hard. This confirms the check valve is holding vacuum in the booster
  • Test drive the vehicle in a safe area and verify normal brake operation with proper assist. The brake pedal should feel the same as before the repair
  • If brake pedal feels hard or requires excessive force, or if rough idle persists, recheck check valve orientation and all vacuum hose connections immediately

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

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More procedures for this vehicle

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