Brake Hose - Rear

This procedure replaces a damaged or deteriorated rear brake hose on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost, restoring proper brake hydraulic function and safety.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake hose assembly × 1 — Use OEM Ford specification for proper fit
• Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — 2 washers per banjo fitting
• Brake fluid × 1 — Motorcraft DOT 4 LV

Fluids

• Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and set parking brake firmly
2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
3. Lift rear of vehicle using floor jack at rear axle differential and support on jack stands under frame rails
4. Remove rear wheel on the side requiring brake hose replacement
5. Using turkey baster or syringe, remove approximately half the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow during hose replacement
6. Place brake fluid catch pan under work area
7. Clean brake hose fittings and surrounding area with wire brush to prevent contamination during disassembly

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Locate the banjo bolt securing the brake hose to the rear caliper. Using a flare nut wrench, hold the brake hose fitting stationary while loosening the banjo bolt. Remove the banjo bolt completely and separate the hose from the caliper. Allow brake fluid to drain into catch pan. Note the position of the two copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting) - these must be replaced. Immediately cap the caliper port with a brake line cap or tightly wrap with plastic wrap and rubber band to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain from the hose and caliper. Keep catch pan positioned to avoid spills on brake components or suspension parts.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose from hard line
   Follow the flexible brake hose to where it connects to the metal hard line on the vehicle frame or axle. Using a flare nut wrench on the tube nut, carefully loosen and disconnect the threaded fitting. If the fitting is corroded, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak for several minutes before attempting removal. Support the hard line to prevent bending. Cap or plug both the hard line and flexible hose end immediately to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
   ⚠Use a flare nut wrench (not a standard open-end wrench) to prevent rounding off the soft brass tube nut. If the fitting is seized, do not force it - seek professional assistance to avoid damaging the hard line.
3. 3

   Remove brake hose bracket mounting
   Locate the brake hose bracket that secures the flexible hose to the vehicle frame or axle. Remove the bracket mounting fastener using the appropriate socket. Note the routing and orientation of the hose through the bracket for proper reinstallation. If there is a retaining clip securing the hose to the bracket, remove it carefully.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Bracket24 Nm (18 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove old brake hose
   With all connections and brackets removed, carefully extract the old brake hose from the vehicle. Inspect the removed hose for the failure mode (cracks, bulging, fluid seepage at fittings) to confirm replacement was necessary. Inspect the hard line connection point and caliper banjo port for damage, corrosion, or debris. Clean threads on hard line and caliper port with wire brush if needed.
   ℹ️Keep the old hose until the job is complete in case you need to reference the routing or orientation during installation.
5. 5

   Prepare and route new brake hose
   Remove the new brake hose from packaging and verify it matches the old hose in length and fitting configuration. Check that you have new copper crush washers for the banjo fitting. Route the new hose along the same path as the old hose, ensuring it will not contact suspension components, the driveshaft, or exhaust during full suspension travel and steering movement. Install the hose through the frame or axle bracket in the correct orientation.
   ⚠Proper hose routing is critical. The hose must have adequate slack to allow for suspension movement without stretching, but not so much that it can contact rotating or hot components.
6. 6

   Connect brake hose to hard line
   Remove the cap from the hard line end of the new brake hose. Thread the hose fitting onto the hard line by hand, ensuring it starts smoothly without cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use a flare nut wrench to snug the fitting. Do not fully tighten yet - leave it slightly loose to allow for hose orientation adjustment in the next step.
   ⚠Start the threaded fitting by hand first. If resistance is felt, back off and restart - do not force a cross-threaded connection.
7. 7

   Install brake hose bracket
   Position the brake hose in its mounting bracket, ensuring proper orientation and that any retaining clip is seated correctly. Install the bracket mounting fastener and tighten to specification using a torque wrench. Verify the hose can move slightly in the bracket but is securely retained.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Bracket24 Nm (18 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Connect brake hose to caliper with new crush washers
   Install one NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo fitting of the brake hose. Remove the cap from the caliper port. Position the banjo fitting into the caliper port, then install the second NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo bolt. Insert the banjo bolt through the fitting and thread it into the caliper by hand. Ensure the hose orientation allows the hard line connection to align without twisting. Tighten the banjo bolt to specification using a torque wrench.
   ⚠️You must use NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting. Never reuse old washers - they will not seal properly and will cause brake fluid leaks and potential brake failure.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Final tighten hard line connection
   With the hose now positioned and secured at both the caliper and bracket, verify the hose routing one final time. Ensure no twisting is present in the hose. Using a flare nut wrench, tighten the hard line connection fully. Check that the hose has adequate clearance from all suspension components, exhaust, and driveshaft through the full range of suspension travel.
   ℹ️The hard line connection does not have a torque specification - tighten firmly with a flare nut wrench until snug. Do not overtighten as this can damage the flare fitting.
10. 10

    Bleed the brake system
    Check the master cylinder reservoir and top off with fresh Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid to the MAX line. Locate the bleeder screw on the rear caliper. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid. Have an assistant slowly press the brake pedal to the floor and hold. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn to allow fluid and air to escape, then close the bleeder screw before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are visible in the discharged fluid and only clean fluid flows. Tighten the bleeder screw to specification. Check the master cylinder reservoir frequently and maintain fluid level above MIN line throughout the bleeding process.
    ⚠️Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run empty during bleeding or air will enter the ABS hydraulic control unit, which requires professional scan tool bleeding procedures.
    ⚠The bleeder screw must be closed BEFORE the brake pedal is released to prevent air from being drawn back into the system.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw16 Nm (12 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Inspect all connections for leaks
    With the system bled, have an assistant apply firm pressure to the brake pedal and hold for 30 seconds. While pressure is applied, carefully inspect the banjo bolt connection at the caliper and the threaded connection at the hard line for any signs of brake fluid seepage. Also check the brake hose itself for any bulging or weeping. Wipe all connections dry with a clean cloth, then repeat the pressure test and recheck for leaks.
    ⚠️Any brake fluid leak, no matter how small, is unacceptable and indicates system failure. If any leak is detected, do not operate the vehicle. Identify and correct the source of the leak before proceeding.
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel and perform final checks
    Reinstall the rear wheel onto the hub. Thread all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Using a torque wrench in a star pattern, tighten the lug nuts to specification. Lower the vehicle from jack stands to the ground. With the vehicle on the ground, perform a final torque check of the lug nuts in a star pattern. Top off the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal several times - it should feel firm and consistent. If the pedal feels soft or spongy, additional bleeding is required.
    ⚠A soft or spongy brake pedal indicates air remains in the system. Do not drive the vehicle until a firm pedal is achieved.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all brake line connections are properly tightened and leak-free
2. Verify brake hose has proper clearance from suspension components, exhaust, and driveshaft throughout full suspension travel
3. Confirm master cylinder reservoir is filled to MAX line with Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid
4. Dispose of used brake fluid and old brake hose properly according to local environmental regulations

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal 10-15 times. Pedal should be firm and hold steady pressure without sinking
• Start engine and verify brake pedal does not sink when steady pressure is applied for 30 seconds
• Visually inspect all brake hose connections for any signs of fluid seepage
• Test drive vehicle in a safe area at low speed (under 10 mph) and verify brakes apply smoothly and evenly without pulling to one side
• Perform several moderate brake applications from 25-30 mph in a safe area to verify proper brake function
• After test drive, recheck all connections for leaks and verify master cylinder fluid level has not dropped
• Recheck wheel lug nut torque after driving 50-100 miles

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