brakes
Brake Rotors - Rear Pair
for 2017 Ford F-150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.2 h
Tools
13
Steps
14
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure replaces the rear brake rotors on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with 3.5L EcoBoost engine, including rotor removal, inspection, and installation with proper torque specifications.
Warnings
⚠️This is a SAFETY-CRITICAL brake system repair. Incorrect installation can result in brake failure, causing serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, seek professional service immediately.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight and position them on proper frame contact points.
⚠️Do not hang the brake caliper by the hydraulic hose. This can cause internal hose damage and brake failure.
⚠Brake dust may contain asbestos or other harmful materials. Do not blow off brake components with compressed air. Use brake parts cleaner in a well-ventilated area.
⚠Torque specifications are critical for brake system safety. Use a calibrated torque wrench for all fasteners.
ℹ️This procedure assumes brake pads are being reused and are in good condition. Inspect pads during rotor replacement and replace if worn beyond specification (less than 3mm remaining).
Tools required
Torque wrench (10-300 Nm range)Essential
1/2 inch drive breaker barEssential
19mm or 3/4 inch socket for lug nutsEssential
T30 Torx bit for rotor set screwsEssential
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Parts
- Rear brake rotors (pair) × 2 — Use OEM specification or equivalent quality
- Rotor set screws (if damaged) × 2 — T30 Torx M8
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Motorcraft DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground. Engage parking brake and place transmission in Park.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at designated rear axle lift points.
- Secure vehicle on jack stands positioned at proper frame contact points. Shake vehicle to verify stability.
- Remove rear wheels completely and set aside.
- Locate brake fluid reservoir under hood and check level. Do NOT open reservoir unless adding fluid later.
- Spray caliper bracket bolts and rotor set screws with penetrating oil and let soak 5-10 minutes if visible corrosion present.
Procedure
- 1Compress brake caliper pistonBefore removing the caliper, use a C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool to slowly compress the caliper piston back into its bore. Place the clamp on the back of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad. Compress slowly to push brake fluid back into the reservoir. This creates clearance for caliper removal and prevents fluid overflow.⚠If brake fluid level in reservoir rises to overflow point during piston compression, remove some fluid with a turkey baster or fluid transfer pump. Do not allow spillage on painted surfaces.
- 2Remove caliper bracket boltsLocate the two caliper bracket bolts on the rear of the caliper assembly. These are larger bolts that secure the entire caliper and bracket to the axle mounting surface. Use a 14mm socket and breaker bar to remove both bolts completely. Keep these bolts separate as they may differ from front caliper bolts.ℹ️These bolts are torqued to 117 Nm (86 lb-ft) and may require significant force to loosen.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts201 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 3Remove caliper and bracket assemblyCarefully slide the entire caliper and bracket assembly off the rotor. Support the caliper assembly with wire, a bungee cord, or by resting it on the suspension component. Ensure no tension is placed on the brake hose. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake line.⚠️Hanging the caliper by the brake hose can cause internal damage to the hose, potentially leading to brake failure.
- 4Remove rotor set screwLocate the T30 Torx set screw on the face of the rotor (usually at the top). Use a T30 Torx bit to remove this screw. If the screw is corroded or stripped, you may need to drill it out or use a screw extractor. The set screw is only for assembly purposes and the rotor can function without it if necessary.ℹ️These screws frequently corrode and strip. Apply penetrating oil and use a properly-sized bit with firm pressure to avoid stripping.Torque specRotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 5Remove old rotorPull the rotor straight off the hub. If the rotor is stuck due to corrosion, thread two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes on the rotor face (if equipped) and tighten evenly to push the rotor off. Alternatively, strike the rotor from behind with a rubber mallet between the studs. Do not hit the studs directly.
- 6Clean hub mounting surfaceUse a wire brush to thoroughly clean the hub mounting surface, removing all rust, corrosion, and debris. The mounting surface must be clean and flat to prevent rotor runout and pulsation. Clean the wheel studs and hub face as well. Spray with brake parts cleaner and wipe dry.ℹ️Any debris or corrosion on the hub mounting surface will cause the rotor to sit unevenly, resulting in brake pulsation and premature rotor wear.
- 7Prepare and install new rotorRemove the new rotor from packaging and clean thoroughly with brake parts cleaner to remove the protective oil coating. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the hub mounting surface (not the rotor braking surface). Slide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the set screw hole with the threaded hole in the hub. Ensure the rotor sits flat against the hub.⚠Do not apply anti-seize or any lubricant to the rotor braking surfaces. Clean rotors thoroughly before installation to prevent contamination.
- 8Install rotor set screwInsert the rotor set screw (new screw recommended if old one was damaged) and tighten using a T30 Torx bit to the specified torque of 8 Nm (6 lb-ft). This screw holds the rotor in place during assembly only; the wheel holds the rotor during operation.Torque specRotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 9Inspect brake pads and hardwareBefore reinstalling the caliper, inspect the brake pads for remaining thickness (minimum 3mm), uneven wear, cracking, or contamination. Inspect caliper bracket slide pins and hardware for wear or damage. Clean or replace as necessary. If pads are worn below specification, this is the time to replace them.
- 10Reinstall caliper and bracket assemblyRemove the caliper from its support position. Carefully slide the caliper and bracket assembly over the new rotor, ensuring brake pads properly straddle the rotor. Align the caliper bracket bolt holes with the mounting points on the axle.
- 11Install and torque caliper bracket boltsInsert both caliper bracket bolts and hand-tighten. Using a torque wrench and 14mm socket, torque both bolts to 117 Nm (86 lb-ft). Torque in a crossing pattern if possible, or torque one bolt then the other, then re-verify both to final specification.⚠️Proper torque is critical for brake caliper security. Under-torqued bolts can allow caliper movement and brake failure.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts201 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 12Repeat for opposite sideRepeat steps 1-11 for the opposite rear brake rotor. Both rear rotors should be replaced as a pair to ensure even braking performance.
- 13Reinstall wheelsPosition the wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts. Using a torque wrench and 19mm socket, torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern. Do not torque in a circular pattern.⚠Always torque lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure and prevent rotor warping.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
- 14Lower vehicle and perform brake pedal preparationCarefully lower the vehicle from jack stands using the floor jack, then remove jack stands and lower vehicle completely to the ground. Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. The first few pedal strokes will re-position the caliper pistons against the new rotors.⚠️Do not attempt to drive the vehicle until you have pumped the brake pedal and verified firm pedal feel. The caliper pistons must be repositioned before the brakes will function.
Reassembly
- After lowering vehicle, re-torque wheel lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in star pattern with vehicle on ground.
- Check brake fluid level in reservoir and top off with Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid if necessary. Do not overfill.
- Start engine and verify brake warning light is not illuminated on instrument cluster.
Verification
- Pump brake pedal 10-15 times with engine off. Pedal should become firm and hold pressure. If pedal goes to floor, DO NOT DRIVE and investigate for problems.
- With engine running, verify power brake assist is functioning (pedal should drop slightly when engine starts).
- Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area. Apply brakes at 5-10 mph to verify proper brake function and rotor seating.
- Listen for any unusual noises during initial brake applications. Some light squealing is normal during break-in period.
- Perform a visual inspection of all work, verifying no tools or parts were left in the wheel well and all fasteners are installed.
- Bed-in new rotors per manufacturer recommendations: perform 15-20 moderate stops from 30-40 mph with adequate cooling time between stops. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles to allow proper rotor break-in.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P1703Brake Switch Out of Self-Test RangeP3604Start-Stop Brake Vacuum Pump PerformanceB0422Brake Warning Lamp CircuitC0085Brake Pressure Sensor CircuitC0088Brake Fluid Level Sensor CircuitC0090Brake Booster Pressure Sensor CircuitC0091Brake Booster PerformanceC0100Brake Pedal Position Sensor CircuitC0101Brake Pedal Position Sensor Range/PerformanceC0110Brake Apply CircuitC0111Brake Apply Circuit LowC0120Electronic Parking Brake Motor Circuit
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →