steering
Tie Rod Assembly
for 2021 Honda Accord 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
13
Steps
10
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the replacement of the outer tie rod end assembly on a 2018-2024 Honda Accord with the 1.5L turbocharged engine, including proper removal, installation, and preparation for alignment.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Replacing tie rod ends will affect wheel alignment. A professional alignment is required after this repair.
⚠Do not strike the tie rod threads or steering knuckle mounting surface with a hammer as this can damage components.
ℹ️This vehicle uses electric power steering with no hydraulic fluid, so there is no fluid loss concern during tie rod replacement.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
Torque wrench (30-140 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket and ratchetEssential
22mm wrench (for lock nut)Essential
17mm wrench (for tie rod end nut)Essential
Needle nose pliers (for cotter pin)Essential
Diagonal cuttersEssential
White paint marker or tapeEssential
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Parts
- Outer tie rod end assembly × 1 — Use OEM Honda specification or quality aftermarket
- Castle nut cotter pin × 1 — Honda OEM cotter pin
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated lift points
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified points
- Remove wheel completely and set aside
- Spray penetrating oil on tie rod lock nut and castle nut threads if corrosion is present, allow to soak 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod position for pre-alignment referenceBefore loosening anything, use a paint marker or tape to mark the exact position where the outer tie rod threads into the inner tie rod assembly. Count and record the number of visible threads between the lock nut and the tie rod end body. Measure the distance from the center of the tie rod end ball stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod. This reference will help approximate toe alignment during reassembly.
- 2Remove cotter pin and castle nutLocate the castle nut securing the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Use diagonal cutters to cut and remove the cotter pin, then extract it completely with needle nose pliers. Using a 17mm socket or wrench, remove the castle nut completely from the tie rod end ball stud. Keep the area clean to prevent dirt from entering the ball joint taper.
- 3Separate tie rod end from steering knuckleInstall a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork between the tie rod end and steering knuckle. Apply steady pressure to break the taper fit. Alternatively, support the tie rod end with one hand and strike the side of the knuckle boss sharply with a hammer to shock the taper loose. Do not strike the tie rod threads. Once the taper is broken, remove the tie rod end from the knuckle.⚠If reusing the tie rod end, avoid using a pickle fork as it can damage the dust boot. Use a proper tie rod separator or the striking method instead.
- 4Loosen and remove tie rod lock nutUsing a 22mm wrench, loosen the lock nut that secures the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod shaft. Move this lock nut back toward the steering rack to expose the threaded connection. Do not remove it completely yet - keep it threaded on the inner tie rod to maintain your reference marks.
- 5Remove outer tie rod endCounting the turns carefully, unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft by rotating it counter-clockwise. Count each complete rotation as you remove it and record this number. This count, combined with your earlier marks, will help you install the new tie rod at approximately the same position. Once removed, inspect the inner tie rod threads for damage or corrosion and clean with a wire brush if necessary.
- 6Prepare and install new tie rod endThread the lock nut onto the new outer tie rod end first, positioning it near the threaded base. Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the inner tie rod threads if desired (avoid getting any on taper surfaces). Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod shaft clockwise, counting the same number of turns you recorded during removal. Align the tie rod end with your reference marks to achieve approximately the same position as the original.
- 7Install tie rod end into steering knuckleEnsure the ball stud taper and knuckle bore are clean and dry. Insert the tie rod end ball stud into the steering knuckle. Install the new castle nut and hand-thread it onto the ball stud. Using a torque wrench and 17mm socket, tighten the castle nut to specification. If the cotter pin holes do not align, tighten the nut further (never loosen) until the nearest castle slot aligns with the ball stud hole.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 8Install new cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud hole. Bend the legs of the cotter pin in opposite directions around the castle nut to secure it properly. Ensure the cotter pin is fully seated and cannot back out. Trim excess length if necessary, but ensure sufficient bend remains to prevent loosening.
- 9Tighten tie rod lock nutHold the outer tie rod end firmly to prevent it from rotating. Using a 22mm wrench, tighten the lock nut against the outer tie rod end body to the specified torque. This locks the tie rod end in position on the inner tie rod shaft. Verify that the tie rod end did not rotate during this process by checking your alignment marks.ℹ️This torque specification applies after final alignment. If you are driving to an alignment shop, tighten to specification but expect the shop may need to loosen and readjust.Torque specTie Rod Lock Nut64 Nm (48 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall wheel and lower vehiclePosition the wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but does not bear full weight. Using a torque wrench in a star pattern, tighten the wheel lug nuts to specification. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands. Perform final torque verification of lug nuts with vehicle on ground.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification and the cotter pin is properly installed
- Check that the tie rod end boot is not torn or twisted
- Ensure no tools or parts were left in the wheel well area
- Test steering wheel movement from lock to lock to verify no binding or interference
Verification
- With the vehicle on level ground, verify the steering wheel is centered and the wheels point straight ahead (they should be close to original position)
- Turn the steering wheel fully left and right to ensure smooth operation with no binding, clicking, or unusual noises
- Visually inspect the tie rod end connection to confirm the castle nut is tight and cotter pin is properly installed
- Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible - the vehicle is drivable but toe setting will be approximate only
- After alignment, verify the steering wheel is centered when driving straight and the vehicle does not pull to either side