brakes
Brake Caliper - Front
for 2017 Maserati Levante 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
12
Steps
11
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers removal and replacement of the front brake caliper on a 2017 Maserati Levante with 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo engine, including bleeding the brake system.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL: Brake system failure can result in loss of vehicle control, serious injury, or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this service performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Keep away from painted surfaces. Brake fluid is also hygroscopic and absorbs moisture - never reuse old fluid or use fluid from an opened container stored long-term.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands and wheel chocks.
⚠The brake caliper bracket bolts are torque-critical fasteners. Improper torque can result in caliper detachment and brake failure.
⚠New copper crush washers MUST be used on brake line banjo bolts. Reusing old washers will cause brake fluid leaks.
ℹ️This vehicle uses an electronic parking brake system. Ensure the parking brake is released and the system is in service mode if working on rear calipers (not applicable for front).
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm socket for wheel lug nutsEssential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
17mm wrench for caliper bracket boltsEssential
13mm flare nut wrench for brake lineEssential
Brake caliper hanger or mechanics wire
Brake bleeding kit or clear tubingEssential
Catch pan for brake fluidEssential
C-clamp or brake piston tool
Clean shop ragsEssential
Threadlocker (medium strength)
Parts
- Front brake caliper × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Brake line banjo bolt copper washers × 2 — Always replace - use OEM
- DOT 4 Racing brake fluid × 1 — Use Maserati specified DOT 4 Racing
Fluids
- DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground.
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at designated lift points.
- Remove front wheel completely.
- Locate brake fluid reservoir under hood and verify fluid level is at MAX line before starting work.
- Have a helper available to assist with brake bleeding procedure.
Procedure
- 1Prepare brake fluid reservoirOpen the brake fluid reservoir cap carefully. Place clean shop rags around the reservoir to catch any potential spills. Using a turkey baster or fluid extraction tool, remove approximately 1/3 of the brake fluid from the reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing the new caliper piston. Dispose of old brake fluid properly - never pour down drains.
- 2Disconnect brake line from caliperClean the area around the brake line banjo bolt connection on the back of the caliper using brake cleaner. Position a catch pan underneath to collect brake fluid. Using a 13mm flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake line to the caliper. Immediately plug the brake line with a rubber cap or wrap in plastic to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination. Note that there are two copper crush washers on the banjo bolt - one on each side of the banjo fitting. Discard these washers as they must be replaced.⚠Brake fluid will begin draining immediately upon loosening the banjo bolt. Have catch pan positioned and work quickly to minimize fluid loss.
- 3Remove caliper bracket boltsLocate the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the caliper assembly to the steering knuckle. These are located at the rear of the caliper bracket and thread into the knuckle. Using a 17mm socket and breaker bar, loosen both caliper bracket bolts. These bolts are torqued to 120 Nm and may require significant force to break loose. Once loosened, remove both bolts completely and retain for inspection. Check bolt threads for damage or excessive wear - replace if damaged.⚠These bolts are safety-critical fasteners torqued to 120 Nm. Do not confuse with caliper slide pins which have much lower torque values.
- 4Remove caliper assemblyCarefully lift the entire caliper assembly (caliper body and bracket together) away from the brake rotor and steering knuckle. The brake pads will come with the caliper. Inspect the brake rotor surface for scoring, heat cracks, or excessive wear while it is exposed. Set the old caliper assembly aside on a protected work surface. Keep the old brake pads if they will be reused with the new caliper.
- 5Inspect and clean mounting surfacesThoroughly clean the caliper mounting surface on the steering knuckle using a wire brush and brake cleaner. Remove any rust, debris, or old thread-locking compound from the bolt holes. Inspect the brake rotor for condition - minimum thickness specifications should be verified if rotor will be reused. Clean the wheel hub surface and rotor mounting face if the rotor is being replaced.
- 6Prepare new caliperRemove the new caliper from its packaging and remove any protective caps or plugs. Verify the caliper piston is fully retracted. If not, carefully use a C-clamp or brake piston tool to compress the piston fully into the caliper bore - this is necessary for clearance over the brake pads and rotor. Install the brake pads into the new caliper bracket if they are not pre-installed. Ensure pad hardware clips are properly seated.
- 7Install new caliper assemblyPosition the new caliper assembly over the brake rotor, aligning the bracket mounting holes with the threaded holes in the steering knuckle. Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolt threads (recommended but not required if bolts are new). Start both bracket bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a torque wrench and 17mm socket, tighten both caliper bracket bolts to the specified torque of 120 Nm (88 lb-ft) in a cross-pattern. Verify both bolts are fully seated and properly torqued.⚠️Caliper bracket bolts MUST be torqued to exactly 120 Nm. Under-torquing can result in bolt loosening and caliper detachment during braking.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
- 8Reconnect brake lineRemove the plug or cap from the brake line. Install a NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo bolt, then insert the bolt through the banjo fitting on the brake line. Install the second NEW copper crush washer onto the bolt on the caliper side. Thread the banjo bolt into the caliper by hand, ensuring the brake line is not twisted or kinked. Using a 13mm wrench and torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to exactly 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Do not overtighten as this can damage the caliper threads or crush the washers excessively.⚠️NEW copper crush washers are mandatory. Reusing old washers will result in brake fluid leaks and potential brake system failure.Torque specBrake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
- 9Bleed brake caliperLocate the bleeder screw on the back of the new caliper (typically on the upper portion). Clean the bleeder screw area. Attach a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and route the other end into a catch container. Have a helper pump the brake pedal 5-10 times and hold pressure. While pressure is held, open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn using a 10mm wrench. Brake fluid and air bubbles will flow into the tube. When fluid flow stops, close the bleeder screw BEFORE the helper releases the pedal. Repeat this process until clear brake fluid with no air bubbles flows from the bleeder. Check and refill the brake fluid reservoir frequently during bleeding - never let it run empty or you will introduce air into the entire system.⚠The bleeder screw is brass and easily damaged. Torque to only 10 Nm and do not overtighten.⚠Never allow the brake fluid reservoir to empty during bleeding or air will be introduced into the ABS hydraulic unit requiring dealer-level scan tool bleeding.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 10Final bleeding verification and ABS system checkAfter the caliper is fully bled, perform a final system check. With the engine running, pump the brake pedal multiple times - it should feel firm and consistent. If the pedal feels soft or sinks slowly, additional bleeding is required. For Maserati vehicles with advanced ABS systems, a complete system bleed using a dealer-level diagnostic scan tool may be necessary to purge air from the ABS modulator. If pedal feel does not return to normal after caliper bleeding, professional service with scan tool bleeding is required.
- 11Reinstall wheelClean the wheel hub face and wheel mounting surface. Reinstall the wheel onto the hub, aligning the lug nut holes. Install all lug nuts by hand to start. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to snug, but do not fully torque while vehicle is on jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground, then torque lug nuts to the Maserati specification (typically 130-140 Nm) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
Reassembly
- Refill brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 Racing brake fluid specified by Maserati.
- Clean any spilled brake fluid from components and painted surfaces immediately.
- Verify the brake line is properly routed without kinks or contact with suspension components.
- Dispose of old brake fluid according to local environmental regulations - do not pour down drains.
Verification
- With engine running, pump brake pedal firmly 10-15 times. Pedal should feel firm and consistent. If pedal is soft or spongy, additional bleeding is required.
- Inspect the brake line banjo bolt connection for any signs of fluid leakage with the pedal depressed.
- Visually inspect the bleeder screw for signs of seepage.
- Test drive vehicle in a safe area at low speeds (under 15 mph) to verify proper brake operation before returning to normal driving.
- Perform several moderate brake applications during test drive to ensure caliper is functioning properly and bedding the pads.
- After test drive, re-inspect all connections for leaks and verify brake fluid reservoir level is at MAX.
- Road test at normal speeds in a safe area, verifying straight-line braking with no pulling to either side.
- Re-check all torque values after test drive, including wheel lug nuts and caliper bracket bolts.
- Note: New brake pads may require 200-300 miles of normal driving to fully bed in and achieve optimal braking performance.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P3604Start-Stop Brake Vacuum Pump PerformanceB0422Brake Warning Lamp CircuitC0085Brake Pressure Sensor CircuitC0088Brake Fluid Level Sensor CircuitC0090Brake Booster Pressure Sensor CircuitC0091Brake Booster PerformanceC0100Brake Pedal Position Sensor CircuitC0101Brake Pedal Position Sensor Range/PerformanceC0110Brake Apply CircuitC0111Brake Apply Circuit LowC0120Electronic Parking Brake Motor CircuitC0121Electronic Parking Brake Motor Overcurrent
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →