transmission
Clutch Master Cylinder
for 2017 Maserati Levante 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.7 h
Tools
11
Steps
15
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the clutch master cylinder on a 2017 Maserati Levante 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo RWD, including brake fluid system bleeding and pedal assembly access.
Warnings
⚠️Brake fluid is extremely corrosive to paint. Cover fenders and immediately wipe any spills with water.
⚠The clutch hydraulic system shares reservoir with brake system on this vehicle. Maintain proper fluid level throughout procedure.
⚠Work in well-ventilated area when handling brake fluid. Avoid skin contact and inhalation of vapors.
ℹ️This procedure requires access to the pedal assembly from inside the cabin. Protect interior surfaces from fluid contamination.
Tools required
Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)Essential
Metric wrench setEssential
Torx bit set (T20-T40)Essential
Brake line wrench set (10mm, 12mm)Essential
Flashlight or inspection lightEssential
Drain pan for brake fluidEssential
Pliers (standard and needle-nose)Essential
Brake fluid catch bottleEssential
Torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)Essential
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Parts
- Clutch master cylinder assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Clutch hydraulic line sealing washers × 2 — Copper crush washers
- Master cylinder pushrod clip × 1 — Retaining clip
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Disconnect negative battery terminal and wait 10 minutes for airbag system discharge
- Place protective covers over driver's seat, floor mat, and lower door sill
- Open hood and locate brake fluid reservoir in engine compartment
- Use turkey baster or fluid evacuator to remove brake fluid from reservoir to lower level, prevent overflow during master cylinder removal
- Position drain pan and absorbent materials under work area
Procedure
- 1Remove driver's side lower dash panelRemove the lower dash trim panel below the steering column. Locate and remove Torx screws (typically T20 or T25) securing the lower panel. Gently pull panel downward and rearward to release retaining clips. Disconnect any electrical connectors for courtesy lights or diagnostics port if equipped. Set panel aside in safe location.
- 2Access clutch pedal assemblyUsing flashlight, inspect the clutch pedal assembly from below. Locate the clutch master cylinder pushrod connected to the top of the clutch pedal arm. Identify the pushrod retaining clip or pin that secures the pushrod to the pedal pivot point. Take photos for reference during reassembly.
- 3Disconnect pushrod from clutch pedalUse needle-nose pliers to remove the retaining clip securing the master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal arm. Carefully work the clip out of the pedal pin. Once clip is removed, slide the pushrod off the pedal pin. Note the orientation and position of any bushings or spacers on the pin for proper reinstallation.
- 4Access clutch master cylinder from engine bayMove to engine compartment. Locate the clutch master cylinder mounted on the firewall, typically on the driver's side near the brake master cylinder. Clean the area around the hydraulic line connection with brake parts cleaner to prevent contamination. Identify the hydraulic line connection point at the master cylinder outlet.
- 5Disconnect hydraulic line from master cylinderUsing appropriate brake line wrench (typically 10mm or 12mm), carefully loosen the hydraulic line fitting at the master cylinder. Have a catch bottle ready as fluid will drain. Once fitting is loosened, unthread completely by hand and carefully move line away from cylinder. Immediately cap or plug the hydraulic line end to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Allow master cylinder to drain into pan.
- 6Remove master cylinder mounting fastenersLocate the mounting nuts or bolts securing the clutch master cylinder to the firewall (typically 2 bolts or nuts, 12mm or 13mm). Support the master cylinder from inside the cabin while removing the last fastener to prevent it from falling. Remove all mounting hardware and keep organized for reinstallation.
- 7Extract clutch master cylinderCarefully pull the master cylinder forward from the firewall in the engine compartment while guiding the pushrod through the firewall opening from inside the cabin. Work cylinder free from mounting position, being careful not to damage firewall grommet or surrounding components. Inspect the firewall grommet for damage and replace if torn or deteriorated.
- 8Prepare new clutch master cylinderRemove new clutch master cylinder from packaging and verify it matches the original unit. Check that all mounting points and connections align correctly. Inspect the pushrod length and clevis configuration matches original. Do not remove protective caps from fluid ports until ready to install. Install new sealing washers on hydraulic line fitting.
- 9Install new master cylinder to firewallFrom engine compartment, carefully insert the new master cylinder pushrod through the firewall grommet while guiding the cylinder body into mounting position. Ensure firewall grommet is properly seated. Align mounting holes and install mounting bolts or nuts finger-tight. From inside cabin, verify pushrod extends properly through firewall and can reach clutch pedal. Tighten mounting fasteners evenly to secure cylinder firmly to firewall.
- 10Connect pushrod to clutch pedalWorking from inside cabin, align the master cylinder pushrod with the clutch pedal pin. Install any bushings or spacers in their original orientation. Slide pushrod onto pedal pin and secure with the retaining clip. Ensure clip is fully seated and pushrod connection has no excessive play. Verify pedal moves freely through full range of motion without binding.
- 11Connect hydraulic line to new master cylinderRemove protective cap from master cylinder outlet port. Ensure new copper sealing washers are in place on the hydraulic line banjo fitting or threaded connection. Thread the hydraulic line fitting into the master cylinder outlet by hand to prevent cross-threading. Using brake line wrench, tighten fitting securely but do not overtighten. Verify connection is properly aligned and seated.
- 12Fill and bleed clutch hydraulic systemFill brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid. Connect pressure bleeder to reservoir following manufacturer instructions, or have assistant available for manual bleeding. Locate clutch slave cylinder bleeder valve at transmission bell housing. Attach clear hose to bleeder valve and route into catch bottle. Open bleeder valve 1/2 turn and apply pressure or have assistant depress clutch pedal slowly. Watch for fluid flow and air bubbles. Close bleeder before pedal reaches bottom (if manual bleeding). Repeat bleeding process until no air bubbles appear and fluid runs clear. Monitor reservoir level throughout bleeding process.
- 13Test clutch pedal operationWith system bled, test clutch pedal feel and operation. Pedal should have firm resistance and return smoothly without spongy feel. Verify pedal travel is normal and similar to pre-repair condition. Check for any fluid leaks at master cylinder connections and mounting area. Depress clutch pedal multiple times and recheck all connections. Top off brake fluid reservoir to proper level.
- 14Reinstall interior trim panelsReconnect any electrical connectors for courtesy lights or diagnostic port on lower dash panel. Align lower dash panel with mounting points and clips. Press firmly to engage all retaining clips. Install and tighten all Torx screws to secure panel. Verify panel is flush and properly seated all around.
- 15Final inspection and cleanupReconnect negative battery terminal. Inspect entire work area in engine bay and cabin for any tools, parts, or fluid spills. Clean any brake fluid residue with water immediately. Verify brake fluid reservoir is at proper level between MIN and MAX marks. Remove all protective covers from interior. Dispose of old brake fluid and master cylinder according to local environmental regulations.
Reassembly
- Ensure all hydraulic connections are tight and properly torqued to prevent leaks
- Verify pushrod-to-pedal connection is secure with retaining clip fully seated
- Confirm brake fluid reservoir is filled to proper level with correct DOT 4 Racing specification
- Double-check that no air remains in clutch hydraulic system
Verification
- Start engine and verify clutch pedal has firm, consistent feel with no sponginess
- Test clutch engagement and disengagement with engine running - transmission should shift smoothly into all gears
- Check for fluid leaks at master cylinder body, hydraulic line connection, and reservoir
- Verify clutch pedal returns fully to rest position without sticking
- Test drive vehicle to confirm normal clutch operation under driving conditions including starts, shifts, and hill starts
- Recheck brake fluid reservoir level after test drive and top off if necessary
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0201Injector Circuit/Open - Cylinder 1P0202Injector Circuit/Open - Cylinder 2P0210Injector Circuit/Open - Cylinder 10P0211Injector Circuit/Open - Cylinder 11P0261Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit LowP0262Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit HighP0300Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire DetectedP0301Cylinder 1 Misfire DetectedP0310Cylinder 10 Misfire DetectedP0311Cylinder 11 Misfire DetectedP0740Torque Converter Clutch Circuit MalfunctionP0741Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance/Stuck Off
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →