steering
Idler Arm
for 2017 Maserati Levante 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
10
Steps
14
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the steering idler arm on a 2017 Maserati Levante 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo RWD to restore proper steering geometry and eliminate play in the steering linkage.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠The idler arm is under tension from the steering linkage. Use proper ball joint separation tools to avoid sudden release of components.
⚠After replacement, a professional wheel alignment is mandatory. Driving with improper alignment can cause tire wear and unsafe handling.
ℹ️This vehicle uses electric power steering with no hydraulic fluid. No fluid service is required for this procedure.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket (wheel lug nuts)Essential
18mm socket/wrench (tie rod end nut)Essential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
15mm socket/wrench (idler arm bolts)Essential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Idler arm assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin (for tie rod end) × 1 — 2.5-3.0mm diameter
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Chock rear wheels to prevent rolling
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground (do not remove)
- Raise front of vehicle using floor jack at designated jacking points
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at manufacturer-specified support points
- Remove front wheels completely
- Spray penetrating oil on tie rod end nut and idler arm mounting bolts, allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Access the idler arm assemblyFrom under the vehicle, locate the idler arm on the passenger side of the steering linkage. It connects the center link to the frame. Clean the area around the idler arm mounting points and tie rod connection with brake cleaner and a wire brush to remove dirt and corrosion.
- 2Remove cotter pin from tie rod endLocate the tie rod end nut connecting the idler arm to the center link. Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers or diagonal cutters. Discard the old cotter pin as it cannot be reused.
- 3Loosen tie rod end nutUsing an 18mm socket or wrench, loosen the tie rod end nut but do not remove completely yet. Leave the nut threaded on by 2-3 turns to prevent the tie rod from suddenly separating when pressure is applied with the separator tool.
- 4Separate tie rod end from idler armPosition a ball joint separator or pickle fork between the idler arm and the tie rod end taper. Strike the tool firmly with a hammer to break the taper fit. Once the joint breaks free, remove the tie rod end nut completely and separate the tie rod from the idler arm. Support the center link to prevent it from dropping.⚠Do not strike the tie rod end stud directly as this can damage the threads. Keep hands clear of pinch points when the taper breaks free.
- 5Remove idler arm mounting boltsLocate the two or three bolts securing the idler arm bracket to the frame rail. Using a 15mm socket and wrench, remove these mounting bolts completely. The idler arm assembly may be heavy, so support it as you remove the final bolt.
- 6Remove idler arm assemblyWith all fasteners removed, carefully lower and remove the idler arm assembly from the vehicle. Inspect the mounting surface on the frame for damage, corrosion, or elongated bolt holes. Clean the mounting surface thoroughly with a wire brush and brake cleaner.
- 7Prepare new idler armUnpack the new idler arm assembly and verify it matches the original part. Check that all pivot points move freely without binding. Apply a small amount of medium-strength thread locker to the threads of the mounting bolts (not the tapered stud).
- 8Install new idler armPosition the new idler arm assembly against the frame mounting surface, aligning the bolt holes. Start all mounting bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Do not fully tighten yet.
- 9Torque idler arm mounting boltsUsing a torque wrench, tighten the idler arm mounting bolts in a cross pattern (if multiple bolts) to the specified torque. Ensure the idler arm bracket is seated flush against the frame with no gaps.
- 10Connect tie rod end to idler armPosition the center link so the tie rod end stud aligns with the hole in the new idler arm. Insert the tie rod end stud through the idler arm until it seats fully. The taper must be clean and dry for proper fitment.
- 11Install and torque tie rod end nutThread the tie rod end nut onto the stud and tighten to the specified torque using a torque wrench. Ensure the castellations on the nut align with the cotter pin hole in the stud. If alignment is not achieved at proper torque, tighten further (never loosen) up to 1/6 turn to align the next castellation.
- 12Install new cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the aligned castellation and the hole in the tie rod end stud. Bend the legs of the cotter pin around the nut in opposite directions to secure it. Trim excess length if necessary, leaving approximately 5-10mm of pin extending beyond the nut.
- 13Verify installation and clearancesManually move the steering linkage through its full range of motion to ensure the new idler arm pivots freely without binding. Check that there is adequate clearance between the idler arm and all surrounding components (frame, suspension, exhaust). Verify all fasteners are properly torqued.
- 14Reinstall wheelsMount the front wheels back onto the hubs, ensuring the mating surfaces are clean. Thread all lug nuts by hand initially. Lower the vehicle until the wheels contact the ground but are not fully loaded. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
Reassembly
- After final wheel lug nut torque, fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands
- Perform a final torque check on wheel lug nuts with vehicle on the ground
- Do not drive the vehicle at highway speeds until a professional wheel alignment has been performed
Verification
- Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary to verify smooth operation with no binding or unusual noises
- Check that the idler arm moves freely without excessive play when the steering wheel is turned
- Perform a visual inspection under the vehicle to confirm the cotter pin is properly installed and all fasteners are secure
- Test drive at low speed in a safe area to confirm proper steering response
- Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment immediately - this is mandatory after steering component replacement