Brake Caliper - Front

This procedure covers the removal and installation of the front brake caliper on the 2007-2013 Mercedes-Benz S65 AMG, including brake fluid line disconnection, caliper replacement, and proper bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper (specify left or right) × 1 — Use OEM Mercedes-Benz specification
• Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — 14mm or 16mm depending on application
• Brake pads (if not included with caliper) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• DOT 4+ brake fluid × 1 — Mercedes-Benz approved

Fluids

• brake — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake.
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
3. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points.
4. Remove front wheel on side being serviced.
5. Extract brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using turkey baster or fluid extractor to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons (optional but recommended).
6. Verify which type of caliper mounting is used (slide pins vs. fixed mount bolts) as S65 AMG may have different configurations depending on brake package.
7. Prepare clean workspace and brake fluid catch container.

Procedure

1. 1

   Position brake fluid catch container
   Place a suitable container under the brake caliper area to catch brake fluid that will drain when the brake line is disconnected. Have shop towels ready to contain spillage and protect painted surfaces.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Locate the brake hose banjo bolt connection at the caliper. Using a 17mm wrench (or appropriate size), loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Be prepared for brake fluid to drain. Once removed, immediately plug the brake hose opening with a clean rubber cap or plug to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Discard the old copper crush washers - they must not be reused.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain from the line. Keep it away from painted surfaces and capture all fluid in container.
3. 3

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Identify the caliper mounting bolts. The S65 AMG typically uses external Torx (E-Torx) bolts, likely E14 or E16. If your caliper has slide pins, remove the slide pin bolts instead. Remove both caliper mounting bolts completely. Note: There may be confusion between 'Caliper Bolts', 'Caliper Mounting Bolts', and 'Caliper Bracket Bolts' in the torque specifications - verify which applies to your specific configuration by checking the service manual.
   ⚠Support the caliper as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling.
4. 4

   Remove old caliper
   Carefully lift the caliper off the brake rotor and mounting bracket. If brake pads are attached to the caliper, they will come with it. If pads remain in the bracket, remove them. Inspect the caliper mounting bracket for wear, damage, or corrosion. Clean the bracket thoroughly if reusing.
5. 5

   Prepare new caliper for installation
   Unpack the new caliper and verify it matches the old unit (left vs. right side, bleeder valve position). If the caliper pistons are not already retracted, use a C-clamp or brake piston tool to compress them fully (this is why you extracted fluid from the reservoir earlier). Remove any protective caps or plugs from the brake line port. Verify that new brake pads are installed in the caliper or bracket as appropriate for your caliper design.
6. 6

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align the mounting holes with the bracket or mounting points on the steering knuckle. Install the caliper mounting bolts and hand-tighten only at this stage. Verify the caliper is properly seated and aligned before final torquing.
7. 7

   Torque caliper mounting bolts
   Using a calibrated torque wrench, torque the caliper mounting bolts to 137 Nm (101 lb-ft). If your specific S65 AMG configuration uses the caliper bolts instead (119 Nm / 88 lb-ft), apply that specification. Verify which specification applies to your exact brake system configuration. Apply threadlocker if specified for your configuration, particularly if using bracket bolts.
   ⚠️Correct torque is CRITICAL. Under-torquing can allow caliper movement and brake failure. Over-torquing can strip threads or break bolts.
8. 8

   Connect brake hose to caliper
   Remove the plug from the brake hose. Install NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting (one against the caliper, one under the bolt head). Position the banjo fitting into the caliper port and install the banjo bolt. Hand-tighten first to ensure proper threading and alignment.
   ⚠️You MUST use new copper crush washers. Reusing old washers will cause brake fluid leaks and brake system failure.
9. 9

   Torque brake hose banjo bolt
   Using a torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to exactly 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Do not overtighten as this can damage the caliper casting or crush the washers excessively causing leaks. Verify the brake hose is not twisted or kinked and has adequate clearance from the wheel and suspension components throughout the full range of steering motion.
   ⚠️Overtightening can crack the caliper body. Use a torque wrench - do not guess.
10. 10

    Bleed brake caliper
    Locate the bleeder screw on the new caliper (typically on top, facing rearward). Attach a clear hose to the bleeder screw and place the other end in a container. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times and hold pressure, then open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Allow fluid and air to escape, then close the bleeder before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the fluid. Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 4+ fluid between bleeding cycles. When complete, torque the bleeder screw to exactly 10 Nm (7 lb-ft).
    ⚠️The bleeder screw is fragile. Torque to exactly 10 Nm - overtightening will strip or break it.
    ⚠Never let the master cylinder run dry during bleeding or you will introduce air into the entire system.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the wheel onto the hub, hand-tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (wheel cannot rotate). Torque the lug nuts to 183 Nm (135 lb-ft) in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.

Reassembly

1. Double-check all brake line connections for signs of leakage. Wipe connections clean and inspect after pumping the brake pedal.
2. Verify the master cylinder reservoir is filled to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4+ brake fluid.
3. Check brake pedal feel - it should be firm. A soft or spongy pedal indicates air remains in the system and further bleeding is required.
4. If ABS or other brake warning lights appear on the dashboard, the system may require professional scan tool diagnosis and ABS bleeding.

Verification

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal multiple times. The pedal should become firm and not sink to the floor under sustained pressure.
• Start the engine - the pedal may drop slightly due to brake booster assist, but should remain firm.
• Inspect all brake connections for fluid leaks, particularly the banjo bolt connection. Look for wetness or dripping fluid.
• Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area. Test brakes at 5-10 mph to verify proper operation before driving normally.
• Listen for any unusual noises (grinding, squealing, clicking) that could indicate improper installation.
• Verify the brake warning light is off on the instrument cluster.
• CRITICAL: Before returning to normal driving, test brakes thoroughly at progressively higher speeds in a safe environment. The S65 AMG is a high-performance vehicle requiring full brake system functionality.

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