Diesel Particulate Filter

Removal and replacement of the close-coupled DOC/sDPF (SCR-on-filter) aftertreatment module on the 2024 Sprinter VS30/W907 with the OM654 2.0L diesel, RWD. The DOC and SCR-coated particulate filter are one insulated canister bolted to the turbocharger outlet at the right rear of the engine, carrying the AdBlue dosing module, three exhaust temperature sensors, the lambda sensor, the upstream NOx smart sensor, and both differential-pressure taps; the downstream NOx sensor lives at the underfloor SCR box and is not disturbed. The job is access, careful sensor transfer, and mandatory software: the ash/soot model and differential-pressure learned values MUST be reset via XENTRY after installation, and root cause of the blockage must be found first or the new filter fails the same way. Realistic time is 5 hours for a competent technician on a clean chassis; add 1-2 hours for seized exhaust sensors or a rust-belt vehicle.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Mercedes-Benz OE combined DOC/sDPF aftertreatment module for OM654 in W907, complete assembly × 1 — Mercedes-Benz OE, A 654 490 series - must be pulled by VIN through EPC; the number changes with emissions package and running production changes
• V-band clamp, turbo outlet to DOC inlet (single-use) × 1 — Mercedes-Benz OE V-band clamp, listed alongside the sDPF unit in EPC
• Turbo outlet sealing ring (V-band joint gasket, single-use) × 1 — Mercedes-Benz OE graphite sealing ring
• Downstream flange gasket, sDPF outlet to intermediate pipe (single-use) × 1 — Mercedes-Benz OE exhaust flange gasket, W907 chassis
• Copper-flashed M10 flange bolts, downstream joint (single-use) × 3 — Mercedes-Benz OE exhaust hardware kit
• Differential-pressure sensor-end hoses with spring clamps (pair) × 1 — Mercedes-Benz OE pressure hose set - replace heat-hardened hoses, do not reuse
• AdBlue dosing module seal/gasket (single-use, always renewed) × 1 — Mercedes-Benz OE, Bosch-manufactured dosing module seal
• Plastic expanding rivets for engine splash shield × 6 — Mercedes-Benz OE underbody rivet - the composite panel bosses crack; replace broken rivets rather than reusing

Preparation

1. Pull the VIN-specific documents before quoting or ordering: EPC for the module part number and install kit, WIS for the torque table for the exact part number fitted. The committed torque values in this procedure are working values pending that confirmation.
2. Road-test or idle the vehicle only enough to pull live data, then allow a minimum 2-hour cool-down. Verify exhaust below 50°C with an IR thermometer before starting.
3. Vehicle on a two-post lift. You will work from above through the hood opening for the canister and from below for the splash shield, tunnel heat shields, downstream flange and hangers.
4. The evening before, with the exhaust cold: soak the downstream flange bolts, the lambda sensor, the NOx sensor, and all three exhaust temperature sensor bosses with penetrating oil from below. These fasteners decide whether this is a 5-hour or a 7-hour job.
5. Confirm the scan tool subscription and the W907 teach-in routines are working BEFORE removing anything, and have the battery maintainer staged at the remote jump posts. Do not start this job and then discover the tool cannot run the reset.
6. Order the V-band clamp, sealing ring, downstream gasket, flange bolts, dosing module seal and splash-shield rivets with the filter - all sealing hardware on these joints is single-use.
7. If the van is optioned with the auxiliary battery under the passenger seat, plan to disconnect its negative terminal as well as the main battery's.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document the failure and establish root cause
   Connect the scan tool, ignition on. From the engine control unit record: soot mass (calculated and measured), ash mass, differential pressure at idle and at 2,500 rpm no-load, distance since last successful regeneration, and regeneration abort counters. A healthy new sDPF reads under 5 mbar at idle. If ash mass is at the replacement threshold with normal regen history, this is honest end-of-life. If soot mass spiked with low ash and repeated regen aborts, find the cause now: check injector correction values for a rich cylinder, check boost and EGR data, and inspect both differential-pressure lines for splits - a cracked downstream line mimics a blocked filter on this engine. Check the engine oil level and smell: repeated aborted regenerations on OM654 dilute the oil with fuel, and a level above max means an oil and filter change with service reset gets added to this job. Screenshot everything; the teach-in routine will erase these counters permanently.
   ⚠If measured differential pressure is high but ash mass is low, suspect the sensor or its lines before condemning the filter.
2. 2

   Isolate the battery
   The starter battery on the VS30 sits under the driver's seat base: remove the step/seat-base trim panel in the driver's door aperture to expose it. Switch off the ignition, take the key fob out of the vehicle, close the doors, and wait 5 minutes for the vehicle network to sleep, then disconnect the negative terminal (10 mm nut) - negative off first, back on last. Do not disturb or lever on the intelligent battery sensor (IBS) on the negative clamp. If the auxiliary battery under the passenger seat is fitted, disconnect its negative as well. This protects the NOx sensor's integrated control module - it is a smart sensor with its own ECU communicating on CAN and it does not tolerate being unplugged live. Tuck the cable clear of the post.
   ℹ️Do not skip the sleep delay. Pulling power while the network is awake sets stored-voltage faults in a dozen modules and adds cleanup time at the end.
3. 3

   Remove the engine cover and turbo intake duct
   Open the hood. The OM654 acoustic cover pulls straight up off its ball-stud grommets - no fasteners. Lift evenly at the stud locations only; the heat-aged foam is brittle and the grommets tear. Then remove the clean-air duct from the air filter housing to the turbo inlet: release the spring-band clamp at the turbo end with hose-clamp pliers, loosen the 7 mm worm clamp at the airbox, unclip the crankcase vent hose from the duct, and lift it out. This opens the top access corridor down the right rear of the engine to the aftertreatment canister, which stands close-coupled between the block and the bulkhead: turbo outlet at the top, DOC brick, AdBlue mixing section, sDPF brick, outlet cone at the bottom feeding the right-side tunnel downpipe.
4. 4

   Remove the upper heat shield
   The formed aluminum heat shield over the canister's upper section is retained by four M6 E10 bolts. Remove them and lift the shield out - it interlocks with the lower shield tab-first, so tilt it toward the engine to free it. Set aside; it goes back at 10 Nm and the soft aluminum strips easily above that.
   Torque spec

   Heat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Disconnect electrical connectors and the AdBlue dosing line
   Working top to bottom: (1) Lambda sensor - black 4-pin connector on the bracket at the rear of the cylinder head; slide the secondary lock, press the primary tab, unclip the harness from the bracket. (2) Upstream NOx sensor - gray 5-pin connector with red slide lock beside the lambda connector; unclip the sensor's module box from its bracket so it travels with the canister. (3) All three exhaust temperature sensors - small 2-pin plugs clipped into bracket holders; free each connector from its holder first, then depress the latch, supporting the connector body - heat-aged latches snap. (4) AdBlue dosing module - disconnect the electrical connector (press-tab), then release the heated AdBlue dosing line at the module: pinch both tabs of the quick-connect and pull straight back without bending the line - the heated plastic line is brittle and must not be kinked. Cap the open line with a clean nitrile glove finger and a zip tie; crystallized urea in the line is the number one cause of dosing faults after this job. Free the harness from its channel clips so nothing tethers the canister.
   ⚠AdBlue crystallizes on contact with air and corrodes aluminum and connectors. Cap the line immediately and flush any spillage with water - never scrape dried deposits; dissolve them with warm distilled water.
6. 6

   Disconnect the differential-pressure lines
   The differential-pressure sensor is a 3-pin unit on a bracket on the right side of the engine, away from the hot canister, connected by two steel sense lines that thread into taps on the canister with union nuts and transition to short spring-clamped hoses at the sensor end. The upstream tap is on the mixing section above the sDPF brick; the downstream tap is on the outlet cone. Undo both union nuts at the canister bosses with the 17 mm flare-nut crowfoot, counter-holding the boss with a second wrench so the tap does not twist in the shell. Mark the upstream line with paint. Leave the sensor and lines on the engine; replace the heat-hardened sensor-end hoses from the parts kit during reassembly.
   ⚠Mark the upstream line before removal even though the routing seems obvious. Reversed lines are the classic post-replacement comeback on OM654.
7. 7

   From below: shields off, downstream flange and hangers disconnected
   Raise the vehicle. Remove the engine splash shield - a mix of T30 Torx screws, 10 mm and 13 mm hex-flange bolts, and plastic expanding rivets; the composite rivet bosses crack, so pop rivets carefully and replace any broken ones. Remove the stamped tunnel heat shield panels over the downpipe (M6/M8 fasteners, 10 mm heads) to expose the joint. The sDPF outlet cone couples to the intermediate pipe - which feeds the underfloor SCR/ammonia-slip unit on this US-spec van - via a 3-bolt flange with M10 copper-flashed bolts, 15 mm heads. Remove all three; this is where last night's penetrating oil pays off. Then unbolt the intermediate pipe's forward rubber-isolator hanger bracket (two M8 bolts, 13 mm) and loosen - do not remove - the two bolts at the intermediate-pipe-to-SCR flange joint so the pipe can swing down and rearward about 30 mm. That swing clearance is what lets the canister come off the turbo joint cleanly.
   Torque spec

   Exhaust Flange Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)

   Hanger Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Release the V-band clamp at the turbo outlet
   Back on top: the DOC inlet clamps to the turbocharger outlet with a V-band. Loosen the clamp nut (13 mm) until the clamp spreads, then work the clamp off the joint lip and remove it - it is single-use and a new one comes with the filter. Do not let the canister hang on the joint; it is still held by its support bracket. Recover the graphite sealing ring from the joint - check both the turbo flange and the canister inlet lip for it and pick it off.
9. 9

   Remove the support bracket bolts
   The canister's cast support bracket bolts to the block/bellhousing area with three M8 E12 bolts. Support the canister - it weighs roughly 12 kg with sensors, and none of that weight may hang on the turbo outlet flange - and remove all three. The unit is now free.
   Torque spec

   Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Extract the canister and cap the turbo
    Rotate the unit slightly clockwise (viewed from above) to walk the outlet cone off the downswung intermediate pipe, then lift the unit up and out through the corridor opened in step 3, tilting the top toward the front of the vehicle to clear the turbo - use a second person if the reach defeats you. The moment the joint separates, cap the open turbine outlet with a clean silicone cap: any nut, washer or broken sensor tip that falls in destroys the turbo on first start. Bag the old unit immediately for hazardous-waste handling and do the sensor transfer with the bag gathered at the neck.
    ⚠Wear a respirator from this point until the old core is sealed. Do not tip the outlet cone downward over your face - loose ash pours out.
    ⚠️Nothing may enter the open turbine outlet. Cap it before doing anything else and leave the cap in place until the new canister goes on.
11. 11

    Bench transfer: lambda, NOx, and temperature sensors
    Clamp the old canister's bracket in the vise - never the shell. Transfer in this order so penetrant work does not cook the fragile ones: (1) All three exhaust temperature sensors, 17 mm crowfoot - crack each loose in one steady pull, never impact and never by the cable, the leads shear at the crimp; if one fights, apply penetrant to the cold joint and warm the boss, not the sensor, and if it still fights, replace it - budget for replacing any temperature sensor you disturb. Install in the new unit at 25 Nm with a trace of nickel anti-seize on the threads only, each into the same position it came from. (2) Upstream NOx sensor, 22 mm slotted socket over the lead - install at 50 Nm, nickel anti-seize on threads only, route the lead to its module box without twist; the sensor and its module are one serviceable assembly and cannot be substituted with a generic part. (3) Lambda sensor, 22 mm slotted socket - install at 45 Nm, anti-seize on threads only. Any anti-seize on a sensing tip kills the sensor; be surgical. Verify the new unit's pressure taps are open (blow through) and remove any shipping plugs.
    ℹ️If any sensor shows white or green deposits at the tip, replace it now - deposits mean coolant or additive contamination and it will skew the new filter's regen strategy.
    Torque spec

    O2 Sensor45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Bench transfer: AdBlue dosing module
    The dosing module bolts to the mixing section flange between the DOC and sDPF bricks with three retaining screws; on this application it is exhaust/air-cooled with no coolant hoses to it. Remove it from the old unit and inspect the spray tip - dissolve any crystal buildup by soaking in warm distilled water and soft-brushing, never scraping; replace the module if the tip is damaged. Fit the new seal (single-use - it is the only thing sealing exhaust from the AdBlue circuit), mount the module to the new canister, and torque the retaining screws to 11 Nm in a criss-cross pattern.
    Torque spec

    Cover Screws11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Install the new canister and torque all joints
    Remove the turbo cap only when the canister is in your hands. Fit the new graphite sealing ring onto the turbo outlet flange, lower the canister into position (reverse of step 10), seat the inlet on the turbo joint, and fit the new V-band clamp finger-tight. Start all three support bracket bolts finger-tight. From below, swing the intermediate pipe up with the new gasket and start the three new M10 flange bolts finger-tight and dry - the copper flashing is the anti-seize and the torque spec assumes dry threads. Now torque in sequence; this order prevents preloading the shell: (1) V-band clamp nut to 12 Nm, tapping the band around its circumference with a soft mallet as you tighten to seat it evenly - never over-torque a V-band on an insulated canister, it distorts the shell; (2) support bracket bolts to 27 Nm; (3) downstream flange bolts to 45 Nm in three passes in a triangle pattern; (4) hanger bracket bolts to 20 Nm; (5) the intermediate-pipe-to-SCR flange bolts loosened in step 7 to 47 Nm. Refit the tunnel heat shields and the splash shield with new rivets where the old ones broke.
    ⚠An unevenly seated V-band on this joint leaks under boost-phase exhaust pulsing and torches the harness above it. Seat it with the mallet, torque, then re-check torque after the first heat cycle.
    Torque spec

    Exhaust Flange Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)

    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)

    Hanger Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Reconnect lines, sensors, and restore access components
    Reconnect both pressure-line union nuts to the canister taps - painted/marked line to the upstream tap on the mixing section, the other to the outlet cone tap - snug with the flare-nut crowfoot while counter-holding the boss. Fit the two NEW sensor-end hoses with fresh spring clamps and confirm the whole run drains toward the canister with no low loop that can trap condensate. Reconnect all three temperature sensor connectors into their holders, the NOx connector (clip the module box back to its bracket), the lambda connector, the dosing module connector, and press the AdBlue line onto the module until the quick-connect clicks - pull-test it. Re-seat the harness in its channel clips. Reinstall the upper heat shield (10 Nm), the turbo intake duct with both clamps and the vent hose, and press the engine cover onto its ball studs evenly at the stud locations. Reconnect the battery negative last (auxiliary battery too if disconnected) and refit the seat-base trim panel.
    Torque spec

    Heat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Teach-in reset, leak check, and confirmation drive
    Connect the regulated battery maintainer to the remote jump-start posts in the engine bay (positive post under the red cover, designated chassis ground) - never directly to the battery negative clamp, or the IBS stops measuring current - and keep it connected for the whole session. In XENTRY: engine control unit > Adaptations > Teach-in processes > 'Reset: replacement of diesel particulate filter'. This zeroes ash mass, resets the soot model, and clears differential-pressure learned values. If an MB-capable aftermarket tool is being used instead, run BOTH 'DPF replacement reset' and 'reset learned values of differential pressure sensor' - they are separate functions on those platforms. With ignition on and engine off, let the differential-pressure sensor zero-point learn complete and confirm the offset reads near 0 mbar. If the dosing module was cleaned or replaced, run the AdBlue dosing quantity test and verify delivered volume is in spec; any DEF quality or dosing faults must be cleared and verified or the emissions derate countdown stays active. Clear all DTCs, start the engine, and at idle check the V-band and downstream flange for leaks by feel and with a mirror - a leak upstream of the sDPF also skews the NOx sensors. Verify live differential pressure reads under 5 mbar at idle.
    ℹ️No forced regeneration is needed on a new, empty filter - the reset routine plus a loaded road test is the correct verification. If the tool offers a stationary regeneration, decline it; if one is ever run, it must be outdoors, attended, clear of combustibles, with the maintainer connected.

Reassembly

1. Sensors and dosing module transferred on the bench: three temperature sensors 25 Nm, NOx 50 Nm, lambda 45 Nm (O2 Sensor spec), dosing module screws 11 Nm (Cover Screws), nickel anti-seize on threads only, new dosing module seal.
2. Canister in with new graphite sealing ring; turbo cap removed only at installation; V-band clamp seated with mallet and torqued to 12 Nm before anything else is final-tightened.
3. Support bracket bolts to 27 Nm (Mounting Bolts).
4. New downstream gasket and new M10 copper-flashed bolts torqued dry to 45 Nm in three passes (Exhaust Flange Bolts); intermediate-pipe-to-SCR joint back to 47 Nm (Flange Bolts); hanger bracket to 20 Nm (Hanger Bolts).
5. Pressure-line union nuts back on the correct taps - marked line to the mixing-section (upstream) tap, other to the outlet cone - with new sensor-end hoses routed to drain toward the canister, no condensate loop.
6. All electrical connectors locked and back in their holders, NOx module box clipped to bracket, AdBlue quick-connect clicked and pull-tested, heated line not kinked.
7. Tunnel heat shields and splash shield refitted with new expanding rivets where broken; upper heat shield to 10 Nm (Heat Shield Bolts); intake duct with both clamps and vent hose; engine cover pressed onto ball studs.
8. Battery negative reconnected last (IBS undisturbed), auxiliary battery reconnected if fitted, seat-base trim panel restored.
9. Teach-in 'DPF replaced' routine, differential-pressure learned-value reset and zero-point learn performed with battery maintainer on the remote posts before the first drive.

Verification

• Live data: differential pressure under 5 mbar at idle and under 20 mbar at 2,500 rpm no-load with the new filter; zero-point offset near 0 mbar with engine off.
• Ash mass reads 0 g and soot mass near 0 g after the reset routine.
• No exhaust leak at the V-band or downstream flange at idle or under a brake-torque load check; re-torque the V-band nut after the first full heat cycle.
• 20-minute road test including sustained highway load: soot mass accumulates gradually and plausibly, no regeneration request, no engine or SCR-related DTCs, no derate countdown active.
• AdBlue dosing quantity test in spec if the dosing module was disturbed; no DEF pressure/quality faults after the road test.
• Engine oil level and condition evaluated: if fuel dilution from the failed-regeneration history is present (level above max, fuel smell), change oil and filter and reset the service counter.
• Battery-disconnect cleanup: one-touch window normalization (hold switch up 1 second after full close) and confirm no steering angle or assist-system messages remain.

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