1967 PLYMOUTH FURY

Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi

Symptoms: Engine rattling at cold start that quiets when warm, Rough idle and poor timing adjustment, Backfiring through carburetor, Hard starting when hot, Check timing marks - they'll be significantly off if chain is stretched

Fix: Replace timing chain, gears, and front seal while you're in there. Budget 4-6 hours for a straightforward swap on 318/383 engines, closer to 6-8 hours on 440s due to tighter engine bay. Always replace the timing tab and verify TDC marks afterward. Original single-row chains rarely made it past 100k without stretch.

Estimated cost: $450-850

Symptoms: Severe front-end sag on one or both sides, Clunking from front suspension over bumps, Visible rust perforation in lower control arm anchor pockets, Uneven ride height that can't be adjusted out

Fix: The torsion bar anchors in the lower control arms rust through, especially in salt-belt cars. Requires replacement of lower control arms, torsion bars, and associated bushings. Figure 8-10 hours for both sides including alignment. This is a safety-critical repair - suspension collapse is possible. Inspect carefully on any purchase.

Estimated cost: $1,200-2,200

Symptoms: Raw fuel smell in garage or after shutdown, Fuel dripping from carburetor base or externally visible on intake, Hard starting after sitting overnight (bowl drains down), Flooding and black smoke on cold starts

Fix: The original Carter carbs used gaskets and seals that harden and fail over 50+ years. A proper rebuild with modern gasket kit takes 3-4 hours including removal, rebuild, and re-tuning. Many shops will recommend replacement with an Edelbrock (same basic design, new parts) instead of rebuilding crusty originals. Rebuilding is cheaper but replacement ensures long-term reliability.

Estimated cost: $350-650 rebuild, $650-950 replacement

Symptoms: Fluid on inside of rear wheels or drums, Soft or spongy brake pedal that gets worse over time, Reduced braking effectiveness, Low brake fluid level requiring frequent top-ups

Fix: Original single-piston wheel cylinders leak as rubber cups deteriorate. Replace all four wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware, and perform complete brake flush. Budget 4-5 hours for rear brake overhaul. These cars have adequate but not impressive braking to begin with - leaking cylinders make them dangerous. Many owners convert to front disc brakes ($1,500-2,500 additional) for improved stopping power.

Estimated cost: $450-750

Typical onset: 70,000-110,000 mi

Symptoms: Steering wander and poor returnability, Clunking over bumps from front end, Excessive play in steering wheel, Uneven tire wear on inside or outside edges, Visual inspection shows vertical movement when prying on tire

Fix: The upper ball joints are load-bearing on these C-bodies and wear faster than lowers. Replaceable separately on most models, but if the bushings are also shot, replace the entire upper control arm assembly. Figure 3-4 hours per side plus alignment. Neglected ball joints can separate, causing complete loss of steering control.

Estimated cost: $500-900 both sides

Symptoms: Fuel gauge reading empty when tank is full or vice versa, Gauge fluctuating wildly with vehicle movement, Gauge pinned at one extreme regardless of fuel level, Intermittent gauge operation

Fix: The float arm in the sending unit corrodes or the resistance wire fails after decades. Requires fuel tank drop for access. Figure 2-3 hours for tank removal, sending unit replacement, and reinstallation. Good time to inspect and clean or replace fuel tank, lines, and filter if doing this job. Low severity but annoying for daily use.

Estimated cost: $350-600

Symptoms: Sweet coolant smell inside cabin with heater on, Foggy windshield that's greasy to the touch, Wet passenger-side carpet, Coolant loss with no external leaks visible, Steam from defrost vents

Fix: Original copper/brass heater cores corrode through. Access requires major dash disassembly on these cars - budget 6-8 hours labor for heater core replacement. Many techs will flush and bypass temporarily ($100-150, 1 hour) for summer months, but full repair requires the dash work. Use a modern aluminum core for longevity.

Estimated cost: $650-1,100

Symptoms: Dim headlights at idle, Battery repeatedly going dead, Ammeter showing discharge while driving, Flickering dash lights, Overcharging (above 15 volts) or undercharging (below 13 volts)

Fix: Early '67s may have generators; most have alternators with external voltage regulators. Both the alternator brushes and the electromechanical voltage regulator fail regularly on 55+ year old units. Diagnosis takes 0.5 hours; alternator rebuild or replacement is 1-2 hours. External regulator replacement is 0.5 hours. Test both components - often one fails and damages the other. Modern solid-state regulators are reliable upgrades.

Estimated cost: $250-550