1968 PLYMOUTH FURY

Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi or 50+ years of age

Symptoms: Rattling noise from front of engine at cold start that quiets when warm, Rough idle or loss of power as timing retards, Difficulty starting when hot, Check timing marks — they'll be off several degrees if chain is stretched

Fix: Replace timing chain, gears, and front seal while you're in there. Most V8s (318/383/440) need 4-6 hours labor depending on accessories. Includes new timing set, front cover gasket, damper removal. The 225 slant-six uses a different setup but less common to stretch. This is preventive maintenance on any Fury you buy at this age.

Estimated cost: $400-800

Symptoms: Hard starting especially when hot, Flooding or strong fuel smell, Flat spots on acceleration or hesitation, Black smoke from tailpipe indicating rich condition, Idle surging or stalling

Fix: Most original carbs need full rebuild kits after sitting or from ethanol damage. Plan 3-4 hours for removal, rebuild, and tuning. Carter AFB/AVS (common on 383/440) are rebuildable but finding someone who knows them is key. Many owners swap to Edelbrock 1406/1411 ($350-450) as direct replacement. Alternatively, professional rebuild runs 2-3 hours labor plus $75-150 in kit parts.

Estimated cost: $300-700

Typical onset: 60,000-100,000 mi or original 50-year-old parts

Symptoms: Wandering steering or lack of returnability, Clunking over bumps from front end, Uneven tire wear especially inside edges, Steering wheel off-center after hitting bumps, Play in wheel when jacked up and rocked

Fix: These C-body torsion bar front ends wear upper control arm bushings and ball joints predictably. Expect to replace both upper control arm bushings, both upper and lower ball joints as a set. Count on 6-8 hours labor for complete front end rebuild including alignment. Critical safety item — worn ball joints can separate. PST and Moog make quality replacement parts.

Estimated cost: $800-1,400

Symptoms: Intermittent gauge operation or dead gauges, Headlights or taillights working intermittently, Ammeter shows discharge or wildly swings, Burnt plastic smell near firewall, Accessories that work sometimes but not others

Fix: The bulkhead connector at the firewall corrodes internally from 50+ years of heat cycles and moisture. Requires disassembly, cleaning all pins, dielectric grease, and sometimes bypass wiring for high-draw circuits. Printed circuit board in instrument cluster also cracks. Budget 4-6 hours for proper bulkhead service, 2-3 hours for cluster repair. Many owners upgrade to modern fusebox and relay system ($200-400 in parts).

Estimated cost: $300-900

Typical onset: Original seals after 50+ years

Symptoms: Oil spots on driveway directly under bellhousing area, Oil coating on flywheel or flexplate visible through inspection cover, Oil consumption without visible external leaks elsewhere, Fresh oil around oil pan rail

Fix: Rope-style rear main seals harden with age and leak. Requires transmission removal on automatics (8-10 hours total labor) or bellhousing on manuals (6-8 hours). Oil pan gasket is 3-4 hours with correct cork gaskets and sealant. Many owners live with minor seepage rather than pull transmission. Use modern rope seal material, not old-style asbestos. Not urgent unless losing more than a quart between changes.

Estimated cost: $600-1,200

Typical onset: 100,000+ mi or original 50-year-old seals

Symptoms: Delayed engagement into drive or reverse (more than 2 seconds), Harsh or soft 1-2 shift with 2-3 shift normal, Leaking from front pump seal or pan gasket, Pink fluid spots on driveway, Slipping on acceleration especially when cold

Fix: The 727 Torqueflite is bulletproof when maintained but suffers from valve body varnish buildup and hardened seals after decades. Simple pan drop, filter change, and fluid replacement (2 hours) often helps shifting. Front pump seal requires transmission removal (8-10 hours). Full rebuild with bands, clutches, seals runs 12-16 hours. Many need nothing more than fresh ATF and adjustment.

Estimated cost: $250-2,800