Wheel Bearing - Press-In Rear

Replacement of a press-in rear wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Tri Motor (Cyberbeast). The rear hub assembly must be removed from the knuckle and the bearing pressed out/in using a hydraulic press or in-vehicle bearing puller kit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear wheel bearing (press-in type) — Cybertruck rear-specific × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Cybertruck rear wheel bearing assembly
• Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM single-use axle nut with cotter pin or stake feature
• Cotter pin (if axle nut design uses one) × 1 — OEM cotter pin
• Internal snap ring (if used to retain bearing) × 1 — OEM bearing retainer snap ring

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery (Cybertruck uses 48V LV — NOT 12V). Locate per Cybertruck service documentation; typically accessed via the frunk area. Use insulated tools rated for the LV system.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage (800V on Cybertruck) and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting: enter the touchscreen Service menu and engage 'Jack Mode' to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
8. With LV battery now disconnected, lift the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support securely on jack stands rated for Cybertruck weight.
9. Remove the rear wheel and set aside on a soft surface (do not scratch the wheel face).

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove axle nut
   Have an assistant apply the brake, or insert a pry bar through the rotor to lock the hub. Remove the cotter pin (or unstake the nut as applicable) and remove the axle nut from the half-shaft splined stub. Discard the nut — it is single-use.
   ⚠The nut may be torqued to 250 Nm and seized with thread-locker — use a long breaker bar, not an impact, to avoid damaging the half-shaft splines.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the rear brake caliper bracket bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. Support the caliper with a hanger or bungee — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake line. Remove the rotor retaining clip/screw if present and pull the rotor off the hub. If rusted, tap evenly around the rotor hat with a dead-blow.
   ⚠Caliper and bracket bolts: torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Do not guess.
3. 3

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Locate the rear ABS sensor on the knuckle. Disconnect the wiring connector (releasing any retaining clips along the harness routing) and remove the sensor retaining bolt. Carefully extract the sensor from its bore — do not pry on the sensor tip; if seized, twist gently to break it free.
   ⚠ABS sensor tips break easily if pried. Replace the sensor if damaged.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Push half-shaft out of hub
   Using a soft-faced punch or hub puller, push the splined end of the half-shaft inward through the hub flange until it is free. Support the half-shaft with a bungee strap so it does not hang on the inner CV joint. Apply penetrating oil if the splines are corroded.
   ⚠Do not strike the threaded end of the half-shaft directly — install an old axle nut flush with the shaft end to protect threads if hammering is required.
5. 5

   Separate hub assembly from knuckle
   Depending on the hub design used by the Cybertruck rear: either (A) remove the hub flange retaining bolts from the rear of the knuckle and pull the hub flange out, or (B) if the bearing is a fully press-in cartridge with no separate flange bolts, the knuckle itself may need to be removed from the trailing arm/control arms. Consult the service manual to confirm design before proceeding.
   ⚠If knuckle removal is required, mark and document control arm positions and fasteners — air suspension components may need re-calibration after reinstallation.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Press out old bearing
   With the hub/knuckle on a press: remove the internal snap ring (if equipped) using snap ring pliers. Using appropriately sized bearing drivers, press the old bearing out of the knuckle bore in the manufacturer-specified direction (typically from the inboard side outward, or vice versa per service documentation). If the inner race remains on the hub flange, remove it with a bearing splitter and press.
   ⚠Press only on the bearing's outer race when removing — pressing on the inner race can damage the knuckle bore.
   ⚠Inspect the knuckle bore for scoring, ovality, or corrosion. A damaged bore will not retain a new bearing and the knuckle must be replaced.
7. 7

   Clean bore and install new bearing
   Thoroughly clean the knuckle bore with a wire brush and brake cleaner. Lightly lubricate the bore with assembly lube or clean grease. Position the new bearing squarely in the bore. Using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race, press the bearing in until fully seated against the shoulder (or until the snap ring groove is fully exposed).
   ⚠️NEVER press on the inner race during installation — this destroys the new bearing's internal raceways and will cause early failure.
8. 8

   Install snap ring and reseat hub flange
   Install the new internal snap ring (if equipped), ensuring it is fully seated in its groove. Press the hub flange back through the inner race using a driver that contacts only the inner race. Verify the hub spins freely with no roughness or binding.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the knuckle to the suspension (if removed), torquing all suspension fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Air suspension height sensor links must be reattached correctly.
2. Reinstall the hub assembly to the knuckle if applicable, torquing Hub Bolts to 102 Nm (75 lb-ft).
3. Slide the half-shaft splines back through the hub. Install a NEW axle nut and torque to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) with the wheel on the ground or with hub locked. Install a new cotter pin or properly stake the nut per its design.
4. Reinstall the ABS sensor and torque the bolt to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). Reconnect the harness and secure all clips along the original routing.
5. Reinstall the rotor and brake caliper. Torque caliper/bracket bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
6. Reinstall the wheel and snug lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
7. Torque wheel lug nuts to 175 Nm (129 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
8. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery.

Verification

• Power on the vehicle. Exit Jack Mode / Service Mode via the touchscreen — confirm air suspension returns to normal ride height with no fault messages.
• Check the instrument cluster / touchscreen for any ABS, traction control, or chassis warnings. The ABS module should self-test on first drive.
• Slowly road test at 5-15 mph in a safe area; listen for bearing growl or grinding. Increase to 30+ mph and listen on smooth pavement — a properly installed bearing will be silent.
• Perform a gentle figure-8 test to load the bearing in both directions. Any clicking, growling, or vibration through the floor indicates an installation issue (improper press, missing snap ring, or under-torqued axle nut).
• After the test drive, re-check axle nut staking/cotter pin and re-torque wheel lug nuts to 140 Nm.
• Note: while you are in the rear suspension area, this is a good opportunity to inspect drive unit gear oil condition. Tesla now recommends rear drive unit fluid service around 12,500 mi initial and every 25,000–50,000 mi thereafter — it is NOT a lifetime fluid despite older marketing claims.

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