Replace the rear upper control arm (camber link) on a 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD. This is a suspension-only job — no HV systems involved — but final torque must be done with suspension loaded to preserve bushing life.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear Upper Control Arm Assembly (manufacturer-specified) × 1 — Tesla Model 3 rear upper control arm — confirm via VIN
• Control arm mounting bolts (replace if TTY or damaged — refer to service manual) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake (via touchscreen / shifter stalk on 2024 Model 3).
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3 Performance the low-voltage battery may be located under the rear seat / floor area — refer to the architecture notes and Tesla Service Manual for the exact location on this VIN before removing trim.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the front wheels.
7. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts on the affected side while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the rear of the vehicle ONLY at Tesla-designated rear lift points using an approved puck/pad. Support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
9. Remove the rear wheel and set aside.
10. Visually inspect the work area for any orange HV cable routing, pack edges, or coolant lines before beginning.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   With the wheel off, photograph the rear upper control arm mounting at the subframe/body and at the knuckle. Note the orientation of any eccentric/cam bolts used for alignment — these must be marked and reinstalled in the same position to preserve approximate alignment until a proper alignment is performed.
   ⚠Mark eccentric alignment cams with a paint pen before disassembly.
2. 2

   Support the knuckle
   Place a jack stand or transmission jack under the rear knuckle/lower control arm to support it. This prevents the half-shaft from being overextended and removes load from the upper arm fasteners.
3. 3

   Disconnect upper control arm at the knuckle
   Remove the fastener securing the outboard end of the rear upper control arm to the knuckle. Retain hardware and inspect for corrosion or damage. Separate the arm from the knuckle carefully without prying against aluminum surfaces.
   ⚠Do not pry against the HV pack or use the pack as a fulcrum.
4. 4

   Disconnect upper control arm at the inboard mount
   Remove the inboard mounting bolt(s) attaching the upper control arm to the rear subframe / body bracket. If equipped with an alignment cam bolt, note its indexed position before removal. Support the arm as the bolt is withdrawn.
5. 5

   Remove the upper control arm
   Maneuver the upper control arm out of the suspension. Inspect the bushings, ball joint/pivot, and mounting brackets on the vehicle for any cracks or damage. Compare the new arm to the old arm to confirm correct part orientation and length.
6. 6

   Install the new upper control arm — inboard side
   Position the new control arm into the inboard subframe bracket. Install the mounting bolt (and eccentric/cam if equipped) hand-tight only. Align the cam to the previously marked position.
7. 7

   Connect upper control arm to knuckle
   Position the outboard end of the arm to the knuckle and install the fastener hand-tight. Ensure the arm is not twisted or binding.
8. 8

   Snug fasteners
   Snug both inboard and outboard fasteners to hold the arm in position, but do NOT bring to final torque yet — final torque must be performed with the suspension loaded.
   ⚠️Final torque at full droop will damage the bushing. Do not skip the loaded-torque step.
9. 9

   Reinstall wheel
   Reinstall the rear wheel. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern, then lower the vehicle until tires bear full vehicle weight. Final torque the lug nuts.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final torque control arm bolts under load
    With the vehicle weight on the wheels (on the ground or on a drive-on lift / ramps that keep the suspension loaded), final-torque the rear upper control arm inboard and outboard fasteners. If a fastener is inaccessible with the wheel on, use ramps or a flat lift so the suspension remains compressed at ride height.
    ⚠If you cannot access the bolt at ride height, follow the Tesla Service Manual procedure for simulating ride height on a hoist.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V / low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim panels removed for access.
2. Close all doors and allow the vehicle to wake. Confirm no chassis or stability-control faults appear on the touchscreen.
3. Perform a slow-speed roll test in a safe area to confirm there are no clunks, binding, or pulling.
4. Schedule and perform a 4-wheel alignment — required after any rear control arm replacement on Model 3.

Verification

• No suspension warning, ABS, or stability-control alerts displayed on the Model 3 touchscreen after reconnecting 12V.
• Visually verify both control arm fasteners are seated, torqued, and that any eccentric cams are not at full extreme of adjustment.
• Confirm no contact between the new arm and the half-shaft, brake line, or HV pack at full suspension travel (cycle suspension if possible).
• Road test: listen for clunks over bumps and confirm the vehicle tracks straight with no rear-end wandering.
• Complete a 4-wheel alignment — Tesla rear suspension is sensitive to camber/toe and will wear tires rapidly if out of spec.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends rear tire rotation every ~6,250 mi due to high torque and curb weight; inspect rear tire wear at next rotation to verify alignment held.

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