suspension
Upper Control Arm
for 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.5 h
Tools
9
Steps
12
Replace the front upper control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range. The Model X uses a multi-link aluminum front suspension with air suspension; the upper control arm bolts to the body and connects to the upper knuckle via a ball joint.
Warnings
⚠️Air suspension can self-level unexpectedly. Disable air suspension via the touchscreen (Service Mode → Suspension → Jack Mode) BEFORE lifting, and disconnect the 12V battery to prevent compressor activation.
⚠️Do NOT lift the vehicle on the HV battery floor or any orange cable routing. Use only the manufacturer-specified pinch-weld/jack pad locations on Model X.
⚠Model X uses an aluminum body and aluminum suspension components. Do not strike with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift only.
⚠Control arm bolts MUST be final-torqued with the suspension loaded at normal ride height. Torquing at full droop will pre-stress the bushing and cause premature failure.
⚠A wheel alignment is required after this repair. Camber and caster will be affected.
ℹ️If the falcon door is open during service, ensure clearance overhead — falcon doors auto-actuate and can be damaged if obstructed.
Tools required
Metric socket set (10mm-22mm)Essential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie rod pullerEssential
Allen key set (for sway bar end link shafts if disturbed)
2-post lift or 4 jack stands rated for EV weight (Model X ~5400 lb)Essential
Pad-style lift adapters (rubber/poly) to protect battery floorEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Drive-on ramps or alignment-style stands (to torque bolts at ride height)Essential
Parts
- Front upper control arm assembly (with integrated ball joint) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model X front upper control arm — verify left vs right
- Ball joint nut (single-use if specified by manufacturer) × 1 — OEM-spec self-locking nut
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Before disconnecting 12V: enter Service Mode and activate Jack Mode to disable air suspension self-leveling.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (negative terminal first). Wait an additional 2 minutes after disconnection.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on the ground.
- Lift the vehicle ONLY on the manufacturer-specified front jack pad locations — never on the HV battery floor pan.
- Support with jack stands rated for EV curb weight. Verify stability before going under the vehicle.
- Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and identify the upper control armLocate the upper control arm at the top of the front suspension. It runs from two inboard body mounts to an outboard ball joint at the top of the upper knuckle. Photograph the orientation and any harness routing (ride height sensor, ABS line clips) before disassembly.
- 2Relieve sensor and harness routingDetach any wiring clips, ride-height sensor links, or brake line brackets attached to or routed near the upper control arm. Do not stretch the ABS or ride-height sensor harness.⚠Damaging the ride-height sensor will trigger air suspension faults and may require recalibration in Service Mode.
- 3Support the upper knucklePlace a jack or strap under the upper knuckle/strut assembly to control its movement once the ball joint is released. The strut is under spring/air load and the assembly will rotate outboard when freed.
- 4Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckleRemove the ball joint nut from the top of the knuckle. Using a ball joint separator, press the ball joint stud out of the knuckle. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle with a hammer — use the separator tool only.⚠Aluminum knuckle — never use a pickle fork or hammer impact. A press-style separator is required to avoid cracking the casting.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 5Remove the inboard control arm boltsSupport the control arm by hand. Remove the two inboard mounting bolts that secure the upper control arm to the body/subframe. Note the orientation of any cam/eccentric washers if equipped — mark their position to aid alignment.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 6Remove the upper control armWithdraw the control arm from the vehicle. Compare the new arm to the old arm side-by-side: confirm bushing orientation, ball joint angle, and left/right designation match.
- 7Install the new upper control armPosition the new upper control arm at the inboard mounts. Hand-thread the inboard bolts (and reinstall any cam washers in their marked positions). Do NOT final-torque yet — bushing must be torqued at ride height.
- 8Reconnect the ball joint to the knuckleInsert the ball joint stud into the upper knuckle. Install a new ball joint nut and torque to specification. If the stud spins, hold it with the appropriate hex/Torx feature in the stud end.⚠Use a new self-locking nut if the manufacturer specifies single-use.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 9Reattach harness, sensors, and bracketsReinstall the ride-height sensor link, ABS line clips, and any wiring brackets. Verify the ride-height sensor link is fully seated — a disconnected sensor will cause the air suspension to fault.Torque specMounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleMount the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the suspension is fully loaded at normal ride height — use drive-on ramps or alignment stands so the inboard control arm bolts can be accessed under load.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
- 11Final-torque the inboard control arm bolts at ride heightWith the vehicle weight fully on the wheels at normal ride height, torque the two inboard upper control arm bolts to specification. This sets the bushing in its neutral loaded position.⚠️Failing to torque at ride height will pre-load the bushing and cause early failure, clunking, and alignment drift.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 12Final-torque wheel lug nutsWith vehicle weight on the wheels, final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reconnect the 12V battery (positive first, then negative). Close the frunk.
- Exit Jack Mode / Service Mode via the touchscreen.
- Allow the air suspension to self-level — observe for unusual compressor cycling or fault messages.
- Clear any suspension or ride-height fault codes that appeared during service.
Verification
- Confirm no suspension or ride-height faults are present on the touchscreen.
- Verify ride height is even side-to-side at the front (compare fender-to-ground measurements).
- Test drive at low speed and listen for clunks over bumps — indicates loose ball joint or improperly torqued bushings.
- Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately. Do not return the vehicle to service without alignment — Model X camber/caster shift significantly with upper arm replacement.
- After 100-200 miles, recheck the inboard control arm bolts and ball joint nut for retention.
- While vehicle is in the air, this is a good opportunity to inspect the cabin air filter (Tesla recommends every 2 years; every 3 years if HEPA/Bioweapon Defense equipped) and confirm brake fluid service interval (every 2 years per Tesla).