Replace the front wheel bearing hub assembly on a 2024 Tesla Model X Long Range. The hub is a sealed, bolt-on unit attached to the steering knuckle and is replaced as a complete assembly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing hub assembly × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front hub assembly for 2024 Model X
• Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM-spec single-use axle nut with cotter pin or stake nut
• Hub mounting bolts (if specified single-use) × 4 — OEM-spec hub-to-knuckle bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk (similar position to Model S). Follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V, enable Jack Mode in the touchscreen (Controls → Service → Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at Tesla-approved front lift points using rubber pucks. Support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight.
9. Remove the front wheel and set aside on its face to protect the finish.
10. Inspect the work area for any orange HV cabling or HV connectors before proceeding.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove the axle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin (or unstake the nut, depending on configuration). Have an assistant apply the brake pedal, or reinstall two lug nuts and have the wheel on the ground briefly to break the axle nut loose. Remove and discard the axle nut — it is single-use.
   ⚠Do not run an impact gun on the axle nut with the vehicle in the air without the hub locked — this can spin the bearing internals.
2. 2

   Disconnect the ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Locate the ABS sensor on the knuckle/hub. Unclip the harness routing along the upper control arm, disconnect the connector, and remove the sensor retaining bolt. Carefully withdraw the sensor and set aside. Do not pull on the wire.
   ⚠If the sensor is seized, twist gently while pulling — do not pry or it will shatter.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the brake caliper and caliper bracket
   Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts (or caliper bracket bolts as applicable) and lift the caliper off the rotor. Support the caliper with a hanger or bungee — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the caliper bracket bolts from the knuckle.
4. 4

   Remove the brake rotor
   Remove the small rotor retaining screw(s) if present, then slide the rotor off the hub. If seized, apply penetrant to the hub center and tap the rotor face evenly with a dead-blow. Do not strike the hub flange.
5. 5

   Separate the CV axle from the hub
   Push the axle stub inward through the hub splines. If the axle is seized in the splines, use a soft-faced puller. You may need to disconnect the outer tie rod end or lower ball joint to gain enough swing clearance — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the manufacturer-specified procedure on your suspension configuration. Support the axle with wire so it does not hang on the inner CV joint.
   ⚠Letting the CV axle hang unsupported can damage the inner tripod joint.
6. 6

   Remove the hub-to-knuckle bolts
   From the rear side of the knuckle, remove the four hub assembly mounting bolts. Access may require rotating the steering or removing a dust shield. Note any bolt orientation before removal.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the hub assembly
   Pull the hub assembly forward out of the knuckle. Corrosion often seizes the hub flange to the knuckle bore. Use a slide hammer attached to the hub flange or carefully tap with a brass drift around the perimeter. Do NOT pry against the aluminum knuckle face.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — gouging the mating bore will cause the new hub to seat improperly.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect mating surfaces
   Wire-brush the knuckle bore and bolt holes. Remove all corrosion, old threadlocker, and debris. Inspect the knuckle for cracks or damage. A thin film of anti-seize on the hub-to-knuckle pilot bore (NOT on bolt threads) helps future serviceability.
9. 9

   Install the new hub assembly
   Position the new hub assembly into the knuckle, aligning the ABS tone ring/sensor passage correctly. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the hub bolt threads if specified by the manufacturer. Install the bolts hand-tight, then torque in a cross pattern.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall the CV axle through the hub
    Slide the CV axle splines through the new hub. Start the new axle nut by hand to keep the axle drawn into the hub. Final torque is set after the wheel is back on the ground.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the brake rotor and any rotor retaining screw — torque to OEM specification.
2. Reinstall the caliper bracket with threadlocker on the bolts and torque to spec (Caliper Bracket Bolts - Front: 120 Nm / 88 lb-ft).
3. Reinstall the brake caliper and pads. Torque guide pin/caliper bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the ABS sensor and retaining bolt (ABS Sensor Bolt: 10 Nm / 7 lb-ft). Re-clip the harness in its original routing.
5. If any suspension joints (tie rod, ball joint) were separated, reinstall and torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
6. Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
7. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
8. Torque the wheel lug nuts to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
9. With the vehicle's weight on the wheel and the brake pedal applied, torque the new axle nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) and install a new cotter pin or stake the new nut per the manufacturer-specified method.
10. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk following Tesla's documented sequence.
11. Pump the brake pedal multiple times before driving to seat the pads against the rotor.

Verification

• Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to re-level. Confirm normal ride height is achieved on both front corners.
• Check the touchscreen for any active alerts — particularly ABS, traction control, or stability control faults. Clear any 12V-disconnect-related transient warnings.
• On a slow test drive in an open area, confirm no grinding, humming, or wobble from the front hub. A failing or misinstalled hub will produce a speed-dependent drone.
• Verify ABS function: at low speed on a safe surface, confirm no ABS warning illuminates after several wheel rotations (the sensor must read the new tone ring correctly).
• After 50–100 miles, recheck the axle nut staking/cotter pin and re-torque the lug nuts to 136 Nm.
• Note: Tesla recommends front tire rotation every 6,250 miles — a hub replacement is a good time to inspect tire wear and rotate if due.
• Note: If brake fluid is older than 2 years, Tesla recommends replacement — consider scheduling that service while the brake system was disturbed.

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