Replacement of a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Model X. The Model X uses a hub-and-bearing assembly that bolts to the steering knuckle; on dual-motor AWD cars the front axle must be released from the hub to access the bearing.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel hub/bearing assembly (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model X) × 1 — OEM Tesla front hub bearing assembly
• Axle nut (single use) with cotter pin or stake-style nut × 1 — OEM Tesla axle nut, single-use
• Hub-to-knuckle bolts (replace if specified by Tesla) × 4 — OEM hub mounting bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the frunk (remove frunk trim/access panel, then disconnect negative terminal first).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V, enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Service menu) to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts and the axle nut while the vehicle is still on the ground — both require high torque to break loose.
8. Lift the vehicle only at Tesla-designated front jack points using approved jack pads. Support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
9. Remove the front wheel and set aside on a soft surface (Model X wheels are easily curb-rashed).

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the caliper guide/slide bolts and lift the caliper off the rotor. Support the caliper with wire or a zip-tie from a suspension component — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle. Remove the rotor retaining screw (if present) and pull the rotor off the hub. If seized, thread a bolt into the rotor's threaded jacking holes to push it free.
   ⚠If the rotor is heavily corroded to the hub, do not strike the hub face with a steel hammer — use a brass drift or the threaded jacking holes.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS sensor and wiring
   Locate the ABS/wheel-speed sensor on the knuckle. Remove its retaining bolt and carefully pull the sensor straight out of its bore. Unclip the harness from any retainers on the knuckle/strut so the sensor can move with the knuckle if needed. Inspect the sensor tip for damage and set aside in a clean location.
   ℹ️The ABS sensor tip is fragile. Do not pry against the magnetic ring — it can be permanently damaged.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the axle (hub) nut
   Remove the cotter pin (if equipped) or break the stake on the stake-style axle nut. Remove the axle nut and discard it — this is a single-use fastener. Tap the end of the axle stub gently with a brass drift to break it free from the hub splines if necessary; do not hammer the axle threads directly.
   ⚠Never reuse the axle nut or its cotter pin. Loss of axle clamp load will destroy the new bearing.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate the half-shaft from the hub
   Push the outer CV stub out of the hub splines. If it is stuck, use a hub puller or carefully press it back with a suitable tool — do not strike the CV stub with a hammer. Once free, support the half-shaft with wire so it cannot hang by the inner joint. There is no need to disturb the inner CV joint or the gearbox seal for a hub-only job.
   ⚠Allowing the half-shaft to swing freely can damage the inner tripod and the gearbox output seal.
5. 5

   Remove the hub/bearing assembly from the knuckle
   From behind the knuckle, remove the hub mounting bolts (typically 4 fasteners). Penetrating oil and a long breaker bar are often required. With all bolts removed, pull the hub assembly straight out of the knuckle. If corroded in place, use a slide hammer with a hub adapter — do not pry against the aluminum knuckle.
   ⚠The knuckle is aluminum. Striking or prying it can crack it. If the hub will not release, use a proper slide hammer.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Clean and inspect the knuckle bore
   Thoroughly clean the hub mounting face and bore on the knuckle with brake cleaner and a non-metallic abrasive pad. Remove all corrosion so the new hub seats flat and square. Inspect the knuckle for cracks, elongated bolt holes, or damage. Inspect the outer CV joint splines and threads for damage; replace the half-shaft if splines are worn or twisted.
7. 7

   Install the new hub/bearing assembly
   Apply a light film of anti-seize to the knuckle mating face only (NOT to the bolt threads unless the OEM torque spec assumes it — when in doubt, install dry). Position the new hub assembly with the ABS tone ring/sensor port oriented correctly. Start all hub bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum knuckle, then tighten in a cross pattern.
   ⚠Cross-threading the knuckle is a common, expensive mistake. Always start every bolt by hand.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reinstall the half-shaft and a NEW axle nut
   Slide the outer CV stub through the new hub splines. Install a new axle nut finger-tight. Final torque must be applied with the wheel on the ground or with the brakes firmly held — do not torque while the suspension is unloaded. Stake the new nut into the axle groove or install a new cotter pin per the nut style supplied.
   ⚠️An under-torqued axle nut will allow the bearing inner race to spin on the axle and destroy the new hub within hundreds of miles.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall ABS sensor
   Wipe the ABS sensor tip and bore clean. Install the sensor fully into its bore until seated, then install and torque the retaining bolt. Re-clip the harness into all original retainers, ensuring no contact with the rotor, tire, or moving suspension.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall rotor and caliper
    Install the rotor onto the new hub and secure with the retaining screw if equipped. Reinstall the caliper bracket and caliper. Torque the caliper bracket bolts and slide bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Pump the brake pedal several times before driving to seat the pads against the rotor.
    ⚠Do not move the vehicle until you have a firm brake pedal.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so the tire just contacts the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
3. With the wheel fully on the ground, apply final torque to the axle nut and stake/cotter-pin it.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery (positive first, then negative) and reinstall the frunk access trim.
5. Close the frunk, sit in the vehicle with the fob, and confirm the touchscreen powers up normally.
6. Disable Jack Mode and allow the air suspension to self-level.
7. If any ABS/ESC/TPMS warnings are present, drive a short distance above 25 km/h (15 mph) — most will self-clear once wheel speed is read.

Verification

• Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings remain on the instrument cluster after a short drive.
• On a test drive, listen for bearing growl/whine that changes with cornering load — symptoms should be eliminated.
• Re-check lug nut torque after 80–160 km (50–100 mi) — Tesla wheel hardware is known to seat after initial torque.
• Verify the air suspension self-levels correctly at all four corners after exiting Jack Mode.
• Note: While the wheel is off, this is a good time to inspect brake pad thickness and rotor condition. Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — check the last service date.
• Note: Tesla recommends tire rotation every ~6,250 mi (10,000 km) on Model X due to instant torque and curb weight. Consider rotating the rears forward at this service if due.

More procedures for this vehicle