Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model Y Long Range AWD. The aluminum-intensive front suspension requires careful handling and final torque-to-yield of pivot bolts at ride height.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Lower Control Arm Assembly (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model Y AWD) × 1 — OEM Tesla front LCA — left or right side as required
• Ball joint cotter pin (new) × 1 — OEM-specified cotter pin for ball joint castle nut
• Control arm pivot bolts (if specified single-use by Tesla) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual — replace if marked TTY/single-use

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, this is accessed under the front trunk (frunk) area — refer to Tesla Service Manual for exact access procedure on your build.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service > Jack Mode) BEFORE disconnecting the 12V, to disable air-suspension self-leveling logic and ride-height adjustments. Note: Model Y uses coil suspension, but Jack Mode also disables certain wake/drive functions.
7. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts (do not remove) before lifting.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle using only Tesla-designated jack points with proper puck adapters and support on rated jack stands.
10. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and photograph the work area
   Before disassembly, photograph the routing of brake hose, ABS sensor wiring, and any clips attached to the control arm. This makes reassembly faster and prevents pinched lines.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link from lower control arm
   Locate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the control arm (or strut, depending on configuration). Hold the inner shaft with an Allen key to prevent spinning while removing the nut. Swing the link clear.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Cut and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint stud. Loosen but do not fully remove the castle nut. Use a proper ball joint separator to break the taper. Once free, fully remove the nut and lower the control arm away from the knuckle. Support the knuckle so it does not hang on the brake hose or ABS wiring.
   ⚠Do NOT use a pickle fork on the ball joint boot if reusing components — it will tear the boot. For replacement, this is acceptable.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Mark and remove the inner control arm pivot bolts
   Mark the orientation of the control arm bushing brackets/cam bolts (if equipped) for reference. Support the control arm with a jack or stand. Remove the inner pivot bolt(s) securing the control arm to the front subframe. Note bolt direction for reassembly.
   ⚠Some pivot bolts are torque-to-yield / single-use. Refer to Tesla Service Manual to confirm whether replacement is required.
5. 5

   Remove the lower control arm
   Maneuver the control arm down and out of the subframe pocket. The arm is heavy — support it during removal. Compare the new arm side-by-side with the old to confirm correct part, side (L/R), and bushing orientation.
6. 6

   Install new lower control arm — inner pivot
   Position the new control arm into the subframe. Install the pivot bolt(s) hand-tight only. DO NOT final-torque yet — the vehicle must be at ride height. If equipped with cam/alignment bolts, set them roughly to the marked position from removal.
   ⚠Final torque happens later, with the wheels on the ground.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Reattach the ball joint to the steering knuckle
   Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to the verified specification. Rotate the nut further only as needed to align the cotter pin hole — never back off. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs properly.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect sway bar end link
   Reinstall the sway bar end link to the control arm (or strut). Hold the inner shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut to the verified specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall any clips, brake hose brackets, or ABS wiring
   Reattach any wiring or hose retention clips that were removed or unclipped. Verify nothing is pinched, stretched, or contacting the new arm at full steering lock.
10. 10

    Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
    Reinstall the front wheel. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle so the full weight of the car is on the wheels (suspension loaded at ride height).
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Final-torque the inner pivot bolt(s) at ride height
    With the vehicle's full weight on the suspension, torque the inner control arm pivot bolt(s) to the verified specification. This is critical — torquing while suspension is unloaded causes premature bushing failure.
    ⚠If the vehicle was raised again to access the bolt, you must lower it again before applying final torque.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque lug nuts
    With the vehicle on the ground, torque all lug nuts to the verified specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any covers removed for access.
2. Wake the vehicle and exit Jack Mode if it was enabled.
3. Confirm no warning messages appear on the touchscreen related to vehicle dynamics, ABS, or stability control.
4. Drive slowly (under 10 mph) in a safe area to confirm no clunks, binding, or unusual steering behavior before road use.

Verification

• Perform a four-wheel alignment immediately. Replacing a control arm always changes camber/caster — driving without alignment will rapidly destroy tires (and Model Y already wears tires aggressively due to weight and instant torque).
• After 50–100 miles, re-inspect the cotter pin, ball joint nut, and pivot bolts visually for any signs of movement or backing out.
• Confirm steering is centered and pulls evenly; check for any new noises over bumps.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 mi on Model Y — note current mileage and schedule the next rotation accordingly.
• If the 12V battery is older than 3 years (AGM) or showing weakness, consider replacement — Model 3/Y platforms are known for early 12V failures.

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