Brake Hose - Rear

Replacement of a rear flexible brake hose on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The hose connects the hard line on the body/subframe to the rear caliper; replacement requires bleeding the rear circuit afterward.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake hose (left or right as applicable) × 1 — OEM Model Y rear brake hose — match side
• Copper sealing washers for banjo bolt × 2 — OEM-spec copper crush washers, banjo size
• Brake hose bracket retaining clip (if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM-spec hose retainer clip

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed, fresh container) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on Model Y). Follow Tesla's documented 12V disconnect procedure to avoid waking the vehicle.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place Service Mode considerations aside — with 12V disconnected, the vehicle will not auto-level or move. Confirm the vehicle is fully powered down before lifting.
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle using only the factory lift points with Tesla-approved jack pucks. Support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's curb weight.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
10. Place a catch pan beneath the work area and have rags ready for fluid drips.
11. Top off the brake fluid reservoir with fresh DOT 3 and, if available, install a pinch-off clamp on the flexible hose just above the caliper to minimize fluid loss (do not clamp the steel line).

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and identify hose routing
   Trace the rear brake hose from the hard line bracket on the body/subframe down to the banjo fitting at the caliper. Note the routing through the intermediate bracket on the suspension and any retaining clip at the body end. Photograph for reference.
2. 2

   Loosen the hard-line fitting (do not separate yet)
   Using a flare-nut/line wrench, slightly loosen — but do not remove — the hard line fitting at the top of the flex hose where it meets the chassis-side bracket. Pre-loosening prevents twisting the hose during final removal.
   ⚠Always use a line wrench on hydraulic fittings. An open-end wrench will round the soft fitting nut.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove banjo bolt at caliper
   Position a catch pan under the caliper. Remove the banjo bolt securing the flex hose to the rear caliper. Remove and discard both copper sealing washers. Plug the caliper port with a clean rag to prevent contamination.
   ⚠Copper washers are single-use. Reusing old washers will result in a slow weep that may not be visible on initial test.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Release intermediate bracket clip
   If the hose passes through an intermediate bracket on the suspension/subframe, release the retaining clip and free the hose grommet. Be careful not to deform the bracket. If the clip is damaged on removal, replace it.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Separate hose from hard line
   Fully unthread the hard line from the flex hose fitting. Catch dripping fluid. Immediately cap or plug the hard line to prevent contamination and to limit reservoir drain-down.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove flex hose retaining clip at body bracket
   Slide out the U-shaped retaining clip that holds the flex hose hex into the body/subframe bracket. Withdraw the old hose. Inspect the bracket for corrosion or distortion.
7. 7

   Install new flex hose into body bracket
   Seat the new hose's hex into the chassis bracket in the correct clocking orientation (matching the photo from step 1). Install a new retaining clip fully home. Verify the hose is not twisted.
   ⚠A twisted hose will chafe and fail prematurely. Confirm the hose lays naturally through full suspension travel.
8. 8

   Reconnect hard line to flex hose
   Start the hard line fitting by hand to avoid cross-threading. Snug, then torque to specification using a line wrench-compatible crowfoot or by following the manufacturer-specified sequence.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Route through intermediate bracket
   Seat the hose grommet into the intermediate suspension bracket and install the retaining clip. Torque any threaded fastener for the bracket to specification.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Install banjo bolt at caliper
    Place a NEW copper washer on each side of the banjo fitting. Install the banjo bolt and torque to specification. Ensure the hose orientation does not bind against the caliper or suspension at full droop or compression.
    ⚠Verify the banjo fitting tab (if present) is seated against its locator on the caliper before final torque.
    Torque spec

    Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Bleed the rear brake circuit
    Remove any pinch-off clamp. Top off the reservoir with fresh DOT 3. Bleed the affected rear caliper using pressure, vacuum, or two-person manual method until clear, bubble-free fluid flows. Cycle to the opposite rear if reservoir went low. Torque the bleeder screw between cycles only when closing for the final time.
    ⚠Never let the reservoir run dry — it will introduce air into the iBooster/ABS module and may require Tesla service tooling to fully purge.
    ℹ️If a firm pedal cannot be obtained, a scan-tool-initiated ABS/iBooster bleed via Tesla Service Mode or equivalent tooling may be required.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final leak check
    With a helper holding moderate pedal pressure, inspect the banjo joint, hose-to-hardline fitting, and bleeder screw for any seepage. Wipe dry and re-check after 2-3 minutes.

Reassembly

1. Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3.
2. Reinstall the rear wheel; hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
3. Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in accordance with Tesla's documented procedure.
5. Allow the vehicle to wake fully; clear any chassis/ABS faults that may have set during the 12V disconnect.
6. With the vehicle still stationary, pump the brake pedal multiple times until firm before driving.

Verification

• Pedal feel is firm and high — no sponginess. If soft, re-bleed; if still soft, an iBooster/ABS bleed via Tesla service tooling is likely required.
• Visually inspect the new hose, banjo joint, and hard-line fitting for any wetness after a low-speed test drive with several moderate stops.
• On a low-speed test drive in a safe area, confirm straight-line braking with no pull and no ABS warning on the touchscreen.
• Check the touchscreen for any active brake-system alerts (Brake System Fault, ABS Fault). None should be present.
• Inspect the hose at full steering lock and through suspension articulation (turn wheels lock-to-lock) to confirm no contact with tire, suspension, or body.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years. Record today's date and mileage; if the existing fluid is older than 2 years, schedule a full flush.
• Torque the lug nuts again to specification after the first 50-100 miles per Tesla's recommendation.

More procedures for this vehicle