drivetrain
Wheel Bearing - Press-In Front
for 2024 Tesla Roadster Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
12
Steps
11
Replace a press-in front wheel bearing on the 2024 Tesla Roadster (Tri Motor). Note: this vehicle is extremely low-volume with limited public service data; confirm hub/bearing design against the actual vehicle before pressing.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or route tools near any orange HV cable. If you encounter orange cabling near the front suspension, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
⚠Public service data for the 2024 Roadster Tri Motor is extremely limited. Confirm that the vehicle uses a press-in (non-cartridge, non-hub-flange) bearing before proceeding — some units may use a bolt-in hub assembly instead. If in doubt, do not press.
⚠Aluminum suspension and possible composite/aluminum body components — do not strike load-bearing parts with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or brass drift only.
⚠The axle nut is a CRITICAL fastener. Always use a new cotter pin or stake nut and torque to the verified specification. Under-torque can cause wheel separation.
ℹ️If the bearing failed prematurely (low miles), inspect the knuckle bore for ovality or scoring before pressing in a new bearing — a damaged knuckle will destroy the new bearing quickly.
Tools required
Hydraulic press (10-ton minimum) or on-car bearing press kitEssential
Bearing race/driver set sized to the OEM bearingEssential
Torque wrench (1/2" drive, up to 250 Nm)Essential
Torque wrench (3/8" drive, low range for ABS sensor)Essential
Breaker bar for axle nutEssential
Snap-ring pliers (internal)Essential
Ball joint / tie rod separator
Dead-blow mallet (non-marring)
Brake caliper hanger / bungeeEssential
Jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Anti-seize / high-temp grease
New cotter pin or stake nut (axle)Essential
Parts
- Front wheel bearing (manufacturer-specified press-in unit) × 1 — OEM front wheel bearing for 2024 Tesla Roadster — verify against VIN
- Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM-spec single-use axle nut
- Cotter pin or stake nut hardware × 1 — OEM-spec
- Bearing retaining snap ring(s) (if equipped) × 2 — OEM-spec internal snap ring
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery. See architecture notes — Roadster low-voltage battery location should be confirmed against OEM documentation before disconnecting.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- With the vehicle on the ground and a helper holding the brake, loosen (do not remove) the axle nut — this is far easier than fighting it on jack stands.
- Raise the front of the vehicle and support on rated jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points. Do NOT lift on suspension arms or composite body panels.
- Remove the front wheel.
- Inspect the area for any unexpected wiring, sensors, or harnesses unique to this vehicle before disassembly.
Procedure
- 1Remove brake caliper and rotorRemove the brake caliper bracket bolts and suspend the caliper from the coil spring or subframe with a hanger — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip if present and slide the rotor off the hub face. Inspect rotor and pads for wear while accessible.
- 2Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensorLocate the ABS sensor on the steering knuckle. Remove the sensor retaining bolt and gently withdraw the sensor from its bore. Unclip the harness from any knuckle/strut routing clips. Set sensor aside in a clean, protected location — the sensor tip is fragile.⚠Do not pry on the ABS sensor body or pull by the wire — damage will require sensor replacement.Torque specABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
- 3Remove axle nut and free axle from hubRemove the cotter pin (or break the stake) and remove the axle nut. Discard the nut and cotter pin — both are single-use. Push the CV axle stub rearward through the hub. If the splines are seized, use a soft-faced puller; do not hammer the axle threads.⚠Do not let the outer CV joint hang unsupported — it can damage the inner joint or boot. Support the axle with wire or a bungee.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 4Disconnect steering and suspension links from knuckleTo gain clearance to remove the knuckle (recommended for press-in bearing service), separate the outer tie rod end from the steering arm and the upper ball joint (or lower ball joint, depending on knuckle design) from the knuckle using a proper separator tool. Mark any eccentric alignment cams before loosening so alignment can be roughly preserved.⚠Mark camber/toe eccentrics before disturbing them. A four-wheel alignment is still recommended after this job.
- 5Remove the steering knuckleWith ball joints and tie rod separated, remove the knuckle from the vehicle and bring it to a press station. Removing the knuckle is strongly preferred over on-car pressing for press-in bearings to avoid damaging suspension arms or the knuckle itself.
- 6Press out the old hub and bearingSecure the knuckle in the press with appropriate support fixtures. Remove the internal snap ring(s) retaining the bearing. Press the hub flange out of the bearing inner race first (the inner race typically remains on the hub). Then press the bearing outer race out of the knuckle bore using a driver sized to the bearing OD.⚠If the inner race remains stuck on the hub, remove it with a bearing splitter or carefully cut it (rotary tool, stop short of the hub) — never apply heat that could affect hub temper.
- 7Inspect knuckle bore and hubClean the knuckle bore thoroughly. Inspect for scoring, ovality, corrosion, or cracks. Measure the bore if you have specs available; if the bore is damaged, the knuckle must be replaced — a press-in bearing in a worn bore will spin and fail. Inspect the hub journal for galling or signs the inner race spun.ℹ️Given limited service data on this vehicle, if anything looks abnormal, consult a Tesla-certified technician before reassembly.
- 8Press in the new bearingLightly oil the knuckle bore. Press the new bearing into the knuckle using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race of the bearing during installation. Press until fully seated against the shoulder. Install the retaining snap ring(s). Then, supporting the inner race only, press the hub flange into the new bearing — pressing on the outer race at this stage will destroy the new bearing.⚠️Pressing through the wrong race (outer race when seating hub, or inner race when seating bearing into knuckle) will internally damage the bearing. Damage may not be visible but the bearing will fail prematurely.
- 9Reinstall knuckle to vehicleReinstall the knuckle to the suspension. Reconnect the upper/lower ball joint and outer tie rod, restoring any alignment eccentrics to their marked positions. Torque all suspension fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for this vehicle. Use new self-locking nuts where specified.
- 10Reinstall axle, rotor, caliper, and ABS sensorSlide the CV axle stub through the hub. Install a NEW axle nut and snug it. Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper bracket; torque the caliper bracket bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Reinstall the ABS sensor with a clean bore (a dab of anti-seize is acceptable on the sensor body, NOT on the tip) and torque the retaining bolt.Torque specABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
- 11Final torque of axle nutLower the vehicle so the wheel is loaded (or have a helper apply the brake firmly). Torque the new axle nut to specification, then install a new cotter pin or stake the nut per the OEM design. If the cotter pin hole does not align, tighten further to align — never back off to align.⚠️Wheel separation can result from an improperly torqued or unsecured axle nut. This is a CRITICAL fastener.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified spec.
- Reconnect the 12V/low-voltage battery.
- Pump the brake pedal until firm before moving the vehicle — the caliper pistons may have retracted slightly.
- Allow the vehicle to power up fully and clear any transient ABS/ESC warnings by driving at low speed in a safe area.
Verification
- With the vehicle safely supported again, spin the hub by hand — it should rotate smoothly with no roughness, notching, or noise.
- Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings remain on the center display after a short test drive (sensor must read the new bearing's tone ring correctly).
- Test drive at gradually increasing speeds and listen for any humming or growling that changes with cornering load — a properly installed bearing should be silent.
- Verify no brake pull, no steering wander, and that regen behaves normally.
- Schedule a four-wheel alignment — any time suspension links are separated on this vehicle, alignment should be checked.
- Reminder: brake fluid service is due every 2 years on Teslas regardless of mileage — if you noticed dark fluid during caliper handling, schedule a flush.