Brake Caliper Rebuild - Rear

This procedure covers the complete disassembly, inspection, cleaning, and rebuild of rear brake calipers on a 2018-2024 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4, including piston seal and dust boot replacement.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper rebuild kit (includes piston seals, dust boots, and hardware) × 2 — Use OEM Toyota or equivalent quality
• Brake cleaner spray × 1 — Non-chlorinated type recommended
• Silicone brake grease × 1 — High-temperature synthetic
• Thread locker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground, place transmission in Park, and engage parking brake firmly
2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
3. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands placed at manufacturer-recommended lift points
4. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside
5. Place drip pan under work area to catch brake fluid
6. Verify you have a complete caliper rebuild kit for both rear calipers before beginning disassembly

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (14mm) securing the caliper to the bracket. Support the caliper and lift it off the brake pads and rotor. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Disconnect brake line
   Place a drain pan beneath the caliper. Using a 10mm line wrench, carefully loosen and remove the brake line banjo bolt from the caliper body. Remove the two copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting) and discard them - new washers should be in your rebuild kit. Immediately plug the brake line with a rubber cap or tape to minimize fluid loss and contamination.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain from both the line and caliper. Have rags ready to catch fluid and prevent spillage on paint or rubber components.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Disassemble caliper body
   Take the caliper to a clean work area. Remove the bleeder screw cap and fully open the bleeder screw. Use a small pick or flathead screwdriver to carefully pry out the dust boot from the caliper body groove - work around the circumference gently to avoid gouging the caliper bore. Once the dust boot is removed, inspect the caliper bore for scoring, pitting, or corrosion.
   ⚠If the caliper bore shows deep scoring, pitting, or corrosion, the caliper body must be replaced. It cannot be reliably rebuilt.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove piston from caliper
   Place a block of wood or several shop rags inside the caliper body opening to catch the piston. Apply low-pressure compressed air (15-20 PSI maximum) to the brake fluid inlet port. The piston will slide out - keep your fingers clear. If the piston does not come out easily, do not exceed 30 PSI. Once removed, inspect the piston for scoring, corrosion, or chrome plating damage.
   ⚠️NEVER aim the caliper at yourself or others when applying compressed air. The piston can eject with significant force even at low pressure.
   ⚠If the piston surface is damaged, scored, or the chrome plating is compromised, replace the entire caliper. A damaged piston will destroy new seals immediately.
5. 5

   Remove piston seal from bore
   Using a small plastic pick or wooden tool (never metal), carefully pry the square-cut piston seal out of the groove inside the caliper bore. Work gently to avoid scratching the bore surface. Remove and discard the old seal.
   ⚠Do not use metal tools inside the caliper bore. Any scratches or gouges will cause leaks and require caliper replacement.
6. 6

   Clean all components thoroughly
   Spray the caliper bore, piston, and all internal passages with brake cleaner. Use a clean lint-free cloth to wipe all surfaces. Inspect the bore closely for any damage. Clean the bleeder screw threads with a wire brush. Blow out all passages with compressed air and ensure no debris remains. The bore and piston must be completely clean and dry before reassembly.
   ℹ️Use only brake cleaner or fresh brake fluid for cleaning. Never use petroleum-based solvents which will damage rubber seals.
7. 7

   Install new piston seal
   Dip the new square-cut piston seal (from rebuild kit) in clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Carefully work the seal into the groove in the caliper bore using only your fingers. Ensure the seal is seated evenly around the entire circumference with no twists or folds. The seal should sit flush in the groove.
   ⚠A twisted or improperly seated seal will cause immediate brake fluid leakage. Take your time and verify proper seating.
8. 8

   Install piston and dust boot
   Coat the piston and caliper bore lightly with clean brake fluid. Position the new dust boot onto the piston first, seating it in the piston groove. Carefully insert the piston into the caliper bore, keeping it straight to avoid damaging the seal. Push the piston in slowly until it bottoms in the bore. Fold the outer lip of the dust boot and seat it into the caliper body groove, working around the circumference until fully seated.
   ⚠Do not force the piston at an angle. It must go in straight to avoid damaging the new seal or boot.
9. 9

   Reinstall bleeder screw and prepare caliper
   Apply a small amount of silicone brake grease to the bleeder screw threads. Thread the bleeder screw into the caliper and torque to specification. Do not overtighten. Clean the brake line mounting surface on the caliper with brake cleaner.
   ⚠Bleeder screws are easily stripped. Use a precise torque wrench and stop at the specified torque.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect brake line to caliper
    Place a NEW copper crush washer on each side of the brake line banjo fitting (these must be from your rebuild kit or purchased separately - never reuse old washers). Position the banjo bolt through the brake line and thread it into the caliper body. Using a line wrench and torque wrench, tighten to specification.
    ⚠️Reusing old crush washers will result in brake fluid leakage and brake system failure. Always use new washers.
    Torque spec

    Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper to bracket
    Clean the caliper slide pins and bracket surfaces with brake cleaner. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the slide pins (not the threads). Position the caliper over the brake pads and onto the bracket. Thread in the slide pin bolts by hand, then torque to specification using thread locker on the threads.
    ⚠Ensure slide pins move freely in the bracket before installation. Seized slide pins cause uneven brake wear.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Bleed brake caliper
    Attach clear tubing to the bleeder screw and route into a catch bottle. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 turn and allow fluid and air to escape. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream. Check the master cylinder reservoir frequently and maintain proper fluid level throughout bleeding. Final tighten the bleeder screw to specification.
    ⚠️Never allow the brake fluid reservoir to run dry during bleeding, as this will introduce more air into the system.
    ℹ️A vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder can make this process easier for a single person.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1 through 12 on the opposite rear caliper. Always rebuild both rear calipers as a pair to ensure even braking performance.
    ℹ️Having one rebuilt caliper and one worn caliper will cause uneven braking and vehicle pull.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheels and perform final checks
    Reinstall both rear wheels and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower vehicle until wheels just contact the ground. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir and top off to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
    ⚠Improper lug nut torque can cause wheel detachment. Always use a calibrated torque wrench and follow star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure both rear calipers have been rebuilt and brake lines are properly torqued with new crush washers
2. Verify all slide pin bolts are torqued to specification with thread locker applied
3. Confirm brake fluid reservoir is at MAX level with fresh DOT 3 fluid
4. Check for any brake fluid leaks at caliper banjo bolts and bleeder screws before test drive

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal several times - it should become firm and hold pressure without sinking to the floor
• Start engine and verify brake pedal does not sink with constant pressure applied
• Check all brake line connections, caliper banjo bolts, and bleeder screws for any signs of fluid leakage
• Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area - brakes should engage smoothly without pulling to either side
• Test brake performance at various speeds up to 45 mph, verifying straight-line stops with no pulsation or noise
• After test drive, re-inspect all connections for leaks while warm
• Re-check brake fluid level after test drive and top off if necessary
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after first 50 miles of driving
• CRITICAL: If brake pedal feels soft, spongy, or sinks under pressure, DO NOT DRIVE - re-bleed system or seek professional help

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