This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the lower control arm on a 2019-2024 Toyota RAV4 with the 2.5L I4 engine. The job requires safely lifting the vehicle, disconnecting the ball joint, removing the control arm mounting bolts, and installing the new control arm with proper torque specifications.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Lower control arm assembly × 1 — 48068-42100 (Driver) or 48069-42100 (Passenger)
• Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is still on ground
4. Lift front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at the proper jacking points on the subframe
5. Remove wheel completely
6. Spray penetrating oil on ball joint nut, control arm bolts, and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the steering knuckle
   Place a floor jack under the lower control arm or steering knuckle to support the suspension assembly. Raise it slightly to take tension off the ball joint but do not lift the vehicle. This prevents the suspension from dropping when you disconnect components.
2. 2

   Remove the ball joint cotter pin and nut
   Locate the ball joint connection at the bottom of the steering knuckle. Remove and discard the cotter pin. Using a 22mm socket, remove the castle nut from the ball joint stud. Keep track of any washers present.
   ℹ️The cotter pin may be corroded. Use needle nose pliers or side cutters to extract it completely before attempting to remove the nut.
3. 3

   Separate the ball joint from the knuckle
   Use a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork to break the taper connection between the ball joint stud and the steering knuckle. Position the separator between the control arm and knuckle, then strike or tighten as appropriate for your tool type until the joint releases. The knuckle will drop slightly when separated.
   ⚠Avoid striking the knuckle or ball joint threads directly. Use only the proper separator tool.
4. 4

   Locate and access the front control arm bolt
   The front control arm mounting bolt is located toward the front of the vehicle, passing through the control arm bushing into the subframe. Access this bolt from underneath. You may need to reposition your work light for visibility. This is a large 18mm bolt.
5. 5

   Remove the front control arm bolt
   Using an 18mm socket and breaker bar, remove the front control arm mounting bolt. This bolt is torqued to 165 Nm and will require significant force. Break it loose, then remove completely. Support the control arm as you remove the bolt to prevent it from falling.
6. 6

   Remove the rear control arm bolt
   The rear control arm mounting bolt is located toward the rear of the vehicle, also passing through the control arm bushing into the subframe. Using an 18mm socket and breaker bar, remove this bolt completely. The control arm should now be free to remove.
7. 7

   Remove the lower control arm
   Lower the floor jack slightly if needed to create clearance. Maneuver the control arm out of the vehicle, sliding the ball joint stud out of the knuckle area. You may need to rotate or angle the arm to clear surrounding components. Inspect the removed arm for wear, damage, or torn bushings.
8. 8

   Clean mounting surfaces
   Use a wire brush to clean the control arm mounting bolt holes in the subframe. Remove any rust, debris, or corrosion. Clean the ball joint taper seat in the steering knuckle. Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the bolt threads (not the bolt heads or mounting surfaces).
9. 9

   Install the new control arm
   Position the new control arm into place, aligning the ball joint stud with the hole in the steering knuckle. You may need to use the floor jack to raise the knuckle slightly to align properly. Insert the ball joint stud fully into the knuckle.
10. 10

    Install ball joint castle nut
    Thread the new castle nut onto the ball joint stud by hand as far as possible. Using a 22mm socket and torque wrench, torque the castle nut to 88 Nm (65 lb-ft). If the cotter pin holes do not align, tighten further (never loosen) until the next slot aligns with the hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.
    ⚠Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole. Only tighten further to the next alignment point.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Install control arm bolts finger-tight
    Insert both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts through the bushings and into the subframe. Thread them in by hand or with a ratchet until they are snug but NOT torqued. Leave them loose enough that the bushings can still rotate slightly. Do not torque at this time.
    ⚠️Do NOT torque control arm bolts at this stage. They must be torqued with the vehicle weight on the suspension or premature bushing failure will occur.
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Install the wheel and thread lug nuts on by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground but the vehicle weight is not fully on the suspension yet. Torque the lug nuts to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern. Then lower the vehicle completely so full weight is on the wheels.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Torque control arm bolts with vehicle loaded
    With the vehicle's full weight now on the suspension, crawl under and torque both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft). This is critical for proper bushing alignment and longevity. Use a torque wrench and 18mm socket.
    ⚠️Ensure vehicle is stable and securely on the ground. Use wheel chocks on opposite wheels.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Always replace the cotter pin with a new one; never reuse old cotter pins
2. Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification
3. Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels for proper bushing pre-load

Verification

• Start vehicle and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock to verify no binding or unusual noises
• Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking, pulling, or vibration
• After 50-100 miles, re-check torque on control arm bolts and ball joint nut
• Have a professional wheel alignment performed immediately after this repair, as suspension geometry has been altered

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