Brake Caliper - Rear

Remove and replace rear brake calipers on a 1966 Chevrolet Corvette with 327ci V8, including bleeding the brake system and proper torque procedures.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper (driver side) × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent
• Rear brake caliper (passenger side) × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent
• Copper crush washers for banjo bolts × 4 — Use OEM specification
• Caliper mounting hardware kit (if worn) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground. Do NOT perform this work on an incline.
2. Chock the front wheels securely with wheel chocks on both sides.
3. Using a turkey baster or fluid suction tool, remove approximately half the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons.
4. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on the ground.
5. Raise rear of vehicle using floor jack at rear differential or frame rails.
6. Support vehicle securely on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight, positioned at manufacturer-specified jacking points on frame rails.
7. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside.
8. Inspect brake system for additional wear or damage. If rotors are scored, warped, or below minimum thickness, replace them during this service.
9. Prepare clean workspace with all tools, new parts, fresh brake fluid, and catch containers within reach.

Procedure

1. 1

   Prepare caliper for removal
   Locate the bleeder screw on the rear caliper body. Place a box wrench on the bleeder screw but do not open it yet. Identify the brake line banjo bolt on the inboard side of the caliper where the flexible brake hose attaches. Position a drain pan under the caliper to catch brake fluid.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake line from caliper
   Using a flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the banjo bolt that secures the brake line to the caliper. Brake fluid will drain immediately. Note the position of the copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting). Discard these washers; they must not be reused. Immediately plug the brake line end with a rubber cap or wrap with clean plastic and tape to prevent contamination and further fluid loss.
3. 3

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper bracket mounting bolts that secure the caliper assembly to the rear axle housing or trailing arm bracket. These bolts pass through the caliper bracket and thread into the mounting bracket. Using a 1/2" socket and breaker bar, loosen both bolts. Remove bolts completely and retain for inspection. If threads are damaged or bolts show stretching, replace with new grade 8 bolts.
4. 4

   Remove caliper assembly
   Carefully lift the caliper assembly away from the rotor and mounting bracket. The caliper may be heavy and awkward; support it with both hands. Inspect the brake pads remaining in the caliper. If pads are contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or are worn unevenly, investigate the cause before installing new calipers. Set old caliper aside on cardboard or shop towels, not directly on concrete.
5. 5

   Inspect and clean mounting surfaces
   Wire brush the caliper mounting bracket surfaces on the axle housing where the new caliper will seat. Remove all rust, corrosion, and old brake dust. Clean thoroughly with brake parts cleaner. Inspect the mounting bracket for cracks or damage. Check that the bracket bolt holes are not stripped or damaged. If using the existing bracket, ensure all slide pins or hardware are clean and lubricated with high-temperature brake grease.
6. 6

   Prepare new caliper for installation
   Remove the new caliper from its packaging. Remove any shipping plugs or protective caps from the banjo bolt port and bleeder screw. Verify the caliper is the correct side (driver or passenger). Check that the bleeder screw is positioned at the top when the caliper is mounted; if not, you have the wrong side. Verify caliper piston moves freely by gently pressing it inward with hand pressure.
7. 7

   Install new caliper to mounting bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align the mounting bracket holes with the threaded holes in the axle housing bracket. If equipped with brake pads already installed in the caliper, ensure they are properly seated. Insert both caliper bracket mounting bolts and hand-thread them several turns to ensure proper engagement. Do not cross-thread.
8. 8

   Torque caliper bracket bolts
   Apply blue threadlocker to the threads of both caliper bracket bolts if recommended by the caliper manufacturer or if bolts were previously loose. Using a torque wrench, tighten both bracket bolts to specification in a cross pattern. Torque to 100.0 Nm (74 lb-ft). Verify both bolts are fully seated and torque reads consistent.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect brake line with new washers
   Remove the plug or plastic wrap from the brake line end. Install one NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo bolt, slide the bolt through the banjo fitting on the brake line, install the second NEW copper crush washer, then thread the banjo bolt into the caliper body port. Hand-tighten first to ensure proper thread engagement and fitting alignment.
10. 10

    Torque brake line banjo bolt
    Using a torque wrench and the appropriate socket, tighten the banjo bolt to exactly 25.0 Nm (18 lb-ft). This is a CRITICAL torque specification. Over-tightening will strip the caliper body threads or crack the fitting. Under-tightening will cause brake fluid leaks and loss of braking. Verify the brake line is not twisted or kinked after tightening.
    Torque spec

    Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Repeat for opposite side caliper
    Repeat steps 1 through 10 for the opposite rear caliper. Ensure you install the correct side caliper (bleeder screw must be at the top of the caliper when mounted). Torque all fasteners to the same specifications. Both rear calipers must be replaced as a pair to ensure even braking performance.
12. 12

    Bleed driver side rear caliper
    Attach clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw on the driver side rear caliper. Submerge the other end of the tubing in a clean container partially filled with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal slowly 3-4 times, then hold firm pressure on the pedal. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Fluid and air will flow through the tubing. When flow stops, close the bleeder screw, then have the assistant release the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the tubing and only clean fluid flows. Check master cylinder reservoir frequently and maintain fluid level above the MIN mark. Never allow reservoir to run dry or you will introduce more air.
13. 13

    Bleed passenger side rear caliper
    Repeat the bleeding process on the passenger side rear caliper using the same procedure described in step 12. Continue bleeding until no air bubbles are visible and fluid flows cleanly. In single master cylinder systems like the 1966 Corvette, the standard bleeding sequence is: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Complete rear bleeding before moving to fronts if they were serviced.
14. 14

    Final torque verification of bleeder screws
    After bleeding is complete, use a torque wrench to verify both rear bleeder screws are tightened to 10.0 Nm (7 lb-ft). Over-tightening bleeder screws will crack the caliper body or shear the screw. Under-tightening will cause air infiltration and fluid leaks.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Reinstall wheels and perform initial brake system check
    Reinstall both rear wheels. Hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower vehicle until wheels just contact the ground but vehicle weight is still on jack stands. Torque lug nuts to manufacturer specification (typically 70-80 lb-ft for 1966 Corvette) in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm and holds pressure. The pedal should not sink to the floor. If pedal feels soft or spongy, air remains in the system and additional bleeding is required.

Reassembly

1. After bleeding is complete and pedal feels firm, top off master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid to the MAX line.
2. Wipe down all brake system components and check for any signs of fluid leaks around banjo bolt connections and bleeder screws.
3. Clean any spilled brake fluid from wheels, suspension components, and frame with water immediately.
4. Verify all tools have been removed from under the vehicle and work area is clear.

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal 10-15 times. Pedal must become firm and hold steady pressure without sinking. If pedal is soft or sinks, air remains in system or there is a leak.
• Start engine and verify brake warning light on dash is not illuminated.
• Perform a visual inspection under the vehicle at both rear calipers. Check for any brake fluid drips or wetness around banjo bolts, bleeder screws, and caliper piston seals.
• In a safe, empty area (parking lot or quiet street), test brakes at 5-10 mph. Vehicle should stop smoothly without pulling to either side.
• Gradually increase test speed to 25-30 mph and perform several moderate brake applications. Braking should be smooth, firm, and even. Any pulling, grabbing, or unusual noise requires immediate investigation.
• After first 50 miles of driving, re-check brake fluid level in master cylinder and inspect all connections for leaks.
• After first 100 miles, re-torque caliper bracket bolts to specification to verify they have not loosened.

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