drivetrain
Axle Seal - Front
for 2002 Dodge Viper 8.0L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.0 h
Tools
15
Steps
18
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replacement of the front axle seal on a 1992 Dodge Viper, requiring front suspension disassembly, CV joint separation, and differential seal removal.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Differential fluid will drain when seal is removed. Have adequate drain pan capacity and be prepared for fluid spillage.
⚠Axle nut torque is 250 Nm (184 lb-ft). Initial loosening requires substantial force and the vehicle must be secured to prevent rolling.
ℹ️The 1992 Viper uses a transaxle design with integral front differential. Front axle seals are located in the transaxle housing.
Tools required
Torque wrench (0-300 Nm range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Pry bar or seal pullerEssential
Drain pan (4+ quart capacity)Essential
Pliers or cotter pin removal toolEssential
RTV silicone gasket makerEssential
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Parts
- Front axle seal × 1 — Use OEM Mopar specification for RT/10
- Differential cover gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification or make from RTV
- Axle nut cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
- 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil with limited-slip additive × 1 — Differential refill quantity
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- rear_diff — 3.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified lift points.
- Remove front wheel on the side requiring seal replacement.
- Place drain pan under transaxle/differential area.
Procedure
- 1Remove axle nutRemove cotter pin from axle nut using pliers. Use breaker bar and appropriate socket to loosen and remove the axle nut. The nut is torqued to 250 Nm and will require significant force. If the hub rotates during removal, have an assistant apply the brake pedal or use a pry bar against the brake rotor and caliper bracket.
- 2Disconnect brake caliperRemove the brake caliper mounting bolts and support the caliper with wire or a bungee cord. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose. The caliper does not need to be fully disconnected from the brake line.
- 3Remove brake rotorSlide the brake rotor off the hub. If the rotor is seized, use penetrating oil and light taps with a dead blow hammer from behind.
- 4Disconnect upper control armLocate the upper control arm ball joint at the steering knuckle. Remove the ball joint castle nut and cotter pin. Use a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Apply penetrating oil if joint is seized.
- 5Disconnect lower control armRemove the lower control arm ball joint castle nut and cotter pin. Use ball joint separator to disconnect the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. The knuckle assembly should now be free to pivot outward.
- 6Remove CV joint from hubPull the steering knuckle and hub assembly outward away from the vehicle. The CV joint splined shaft should slide out of the hub. If stuck, use a brass drift and hammer to tap the end of the CV shaft while pulling the hub outward. Support the halfshaft to prevent damage.
- 7Separate inner CV joint from transaxleLocate the inner CV joint bolts connecting the halfshaft to the transaxle stub shaft or differential output flange. Remove the CV joint bolts. There should be 6 bolts securing the inner CV joint. Mark the orientation of the joint before removal for proper reassembly alignment. Once bolts are removed, carefully pull the halfshaft assembly away from the transaxle.Torque specCV Joint Bolts61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 8Drain differential fluidPosition drain pan to catch differential fluid. Remove the differential cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the housing. Fluid will drain out as the cover is removed. Allow fluid to drain completely. Inspect drained fluid for metal particles or contamination.
- 9Remove failed axle sealLocate the axle seal in the transaxle/differential housing where the halfshaft was removed. Use a seal puller or carefully use a pry bar to extract the old seal from the housing bore. Work around the seal circumference to avoid damaging the housing bore. If seal is stubborn, a slide hammer with internal puller adapter can be used. Clean the seal bore thoroughly with shop rags and degreaser, removing all old seal material and debris.
- 10Install new axle sealInspect the seal bore for damage, burrs, or scratches that could cause the new seal to leak. Lightly lubricate the outer diameter of the new seal with gear oil. Position the new seal squaretly in the bore with the seal lip facing inward toward the differential. Use a seal driver or appropriately sized socket that contacts only the outer edge of the seal (never the center) to drive the seal into the housing. Tap evenly around the circumference until the seal is fully seated and flush with the housing face. Verify the seal is not cocked or damaged.
- 11Clean and reinstall differential coverClean the differential cover and housing mating surfaces with a wire brush and degreaser. Remove all old gasket material or RTV. Apply a thin bead of RTV silicone gasket maker to the cover or install new gasket per manufacturer design. Reinstall the differential cover and torque the cover bolts in a crisscross pattern to specification.Torque specDifferential Cover Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 12Refill differentialLocate the differential fill plug on the transaxle housing. Remove the fill plug. Add 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil with limited-slip additive through the fill hole until fluid reaches the bottom of the fill hole (fluid should just begin to seep out). The capacity is approximately 3.5 quarts but fill to the proper level, not to capacity. Reinstall and tighten the fill plug.
- 13Reinstall inner CV jointApply a thin coat of gear oil to the splined portion of the new seal that will contact the CV joint. Align the inner CV joint to the transaxle stub shaft or output flange using the alignment marks made during removal. Install the CV joint bolts with a drop of medium-strength thread locker. Torque the bolts evenly in a star pattern to specification.Torque specCV Joint Bolts61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 14Reinstall CV joint to hubApply a small amount of anti-seize to the CV splines. Align the steering knuckle and hub assembly with the outer CV joint splined shaft. Push the hub assembly onto the CV shaft, ensuring the splines fully engage. You may need to rotate the hub slightly to align splines.
- 15Reconnect suspension componentsReconnect the lower control arm ball joint to the steering knuckle and install the castle nut. Torque to specification and install a new cotter pin. Reconnect the upper control arm ball joint to the knuckle, torque the castle nut to specification, and install a new cotter pin. Ensure both ball joints are properly seated and cotter pins are secured.
- 16Reinstall brake componentsReinstall the brake rotor onto the hub. Remount the brake caliper to the caliper bracket and torque the mounting bolts to specification. Ensure brake pads are properly positioned.
- 17Install and torque axle nutInstall a new axle nut onto the CV shaft threads. While an assistant applies the brake pedal or using a pry bar against the rotor to prevent rotation, torque the axle nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft). Install a new cotter pin through the axle nut and castle. Bend the cotter pin ends to secure.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 18Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the wheel contacts the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reassembly is performed in reverse order of disassembly as detailed in the steps above.
- Always use new cotter pins for axle nut and ball joint castle nuts.
- Ensure differential is filled to proper level before test driving.
- All torque specifications must be followed precisely, particularly for axle nut and CV joint bolts.
Verification
- Start the engine and turn the steering wheel fully left and right while stationary. Listen for any clicking or grinding noises from the CV joints.
- Inspect the area around the new axle seal for any signs of leaking differential fluid immediately after installation and again after test drive.
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed, making turns in both directions. CV joints should operate smoothly without binding or noise.
- Recheck differential fluid level after test drive. Top off if necessary.
- Verify axle nut cotter pin is properly installed and secured.
- Inspect all suspension fasteners to ensure they are tight and properly torqued.