Brake Caliper Rebuild - Front

Complete rebuild of front brake calipers including seal replacement, piston cleaning, and reassembly. Requires caliper removal, disassembly, cleaning, installation of new seals and boots, and bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper rebuild kit (includes pistons, seals, boots, hardware) × 2 — Use OEM specification for proper fit
• Silicone brake grease × 1 — High-temperature brake caliper grease
• Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Blue threadlocker for bracket bolts
• Copper crush washers for brake line banjo bolts × 4 — Replace if banjo fittings are disconnected

Fluids

• DOT 3 brake fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake firmly
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
3. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-recommended lift points
4. Remove front wheels completely and set aside
5. Place drain pan under work area to catch brake fluid
6. Do NOT depress brake pedal once calipers are removed or pistons are extended
7. Have fresh DOT 3 brake fluid and all rebuild kit components ready before disassembly

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper from vehicle
   Using a box-end wrench or socket, carefully loosen the brake line banjo bolt at the caliper inlet. Be prepared for fluid leakage. Once loosened, remove the banjo bolt completely and cap or plug the brake line immediately to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Discard the copper crush washers (new ones will be installed). Remove the caliper mounting bolts that secure the fixed caliper to the knuckle/bracket. Lift the caliper off the rotor and bracket. Keep caliper upright if possible to minimize fluid spillage.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Remove caliper bracket from hub
   Remove the two caliper bracket mounting bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle/hub assembly. These are substantial bolts requiring significant force to remove. Once removed, lift the bracket away from the rotor and hub. Set aside for cleaning.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Disassemble caliper and remove pistons
   Place the caliper on a clean workbench with a thick shop towel underneath to cushion piston removal. Remove the dust boot from around the piston opening using a pick or seal removal tool - work carefully to avoid damaging the caliper bore. Position a block of wood between the piston face and caliper body (leaving 1 inch gap). Using compressed air applied to the brake fluid inlet port, gently apply air pressure to push the piston out. Keep air pressure low (under 30 PSI) and keep hands clear of the piston. The piston will pop out into the wood block. This is a 4-piston fixed caliper with opposed pistons on both halves; extract all pistons evenly, using a spacer or retainer to prevent one piston from ejecting while others remain seated, and repeat air application as needed to remove all four pistons.
   ⚠️Keep fingers and body parts clear of piston travel path. Use low air pressure only. Flying pistons can cause serious injury.
4. 4

   Remove internal seals from caliper bore
   Once pistons are removed, locate the square-section piston seal that sits in a groove inside the caliper bore. Using a plastic pick or wooden tool (never metal that could scratch the bore), carefully pry the seal out of its groove. Inspect the bore carefully for any pitting, scoring, or corrosion. Light staining is acceptable, but any raised material, pitting deeper than 0.010 inch, or scoring requires caliper replacement rather than rebuild.
   ⚠Do not use metal tools inside the caliper bore. Scratches or gouges will cause seal leaks and require caliper replacement.
5. 5

   Clean all components thoroughly
   Clean the caliper body, pistons, bracket, and all hardware using brake parts cleaner and clean lint-free towels. Pay special attention to the caliper bore, piston seal grooves, and slide pin bores in the bracket. Blow out all passages with compressed air. Clean the pistons thoroughly and inspect for chrome plating damage, pitting, or scoring. Pistons must be smooth and undamaged - replace any damaged pistons with new ones from the rebuild kit. Clean the bleeder screw threads and passage.
   ⚠Ensure all components are completely free of contamination, old fluid residue, and debris. Any contamination will compromise the rebuild.
6. 6

   Install new piston seals
   Lubricate the new square-section piston seal lightly with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Carefully install the seal into the groove inside the caliper bore, working it in evenly around the circumference. Ensure the seal is fully seated in its groove with no twists or folds. The seal should sit flat and even in the groove all the way around. Repeat for all piston bores in the caliper.
   ⚠Do not use petroleum-based lubricants on brake seals. Use only clean brake fluid or silicone brake grease as specified.
7. 7

   Install pistons and dust boots
   Lubricate the new piston(s) with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Install the new dust boot onto the piston first (per the rebuild kit instructions - some boots install on piston first, others on caliper bore first). Carefully insert the piston into the caliper bore, ensuring it enters straight and does not cock to one side. Push the piston in slowly by hand or using a C-clamp or caliper piston tool, working it past the square seal. The seal will provide resistance - this is normal. Once the piston is fully seated (flush or slightly recessed from the caliper face), seat the outer lip of the dust boot into its groove on the caliper body. Ensure the boot is fully seated all the way around with no gaps or folds. Repeat for all pistons.
   ⚠Do not force pistons. They should slide in with steady pressure. Cocking or forcing can damage seals or bore.
8. 8

   Service caliper bracket and hardware
   Clean the brake pad contact areas and caliper mounting surfaces thoroughly with brake parts cleaner. Inspect the caliper mounting bolts for wear, corrosion, or thread damage; replace as needed. Clean the brake pad abutment/contact areas and apply a thin coat of high-temperature brake grease to the pad contact points (where pads slide, not on friction surfaces). on the bracket and apply a thin coat of high-temperature brake grease to the pad contact points (where pads slide, not on friction surfaces).
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper bracket to hub
   Position the caliper bracket onto the steering knuckle/hub assembly over the rotor. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolt threads. Install the two bracket mounting bolts and torque to specification in a cross pattern. Verify the bracket is secure and properly seated against the knuckle.
   ℹ️Threadlocker is recommended on bracket bolts per specification to prevent loosening under braking forces.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Install caliper onto bracket
    Position the rebuilt fixed caliper over the rotor and onto the knuckle. Ensure the brake pads are properly positioned. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper mounting bolt threads. Install the caliper mounting bolts through the caliper and into the knuckle. Torque the mounting bolts to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Connect brake line to caliper
    Install new copper crush washers on both sides of the brake line banjo fitting. Position the brake line banjo bolt into the caliper inlet port with the washers properly positioned. Thread the banjo bolt in by hand first to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a line wrench, torque the banjo bolt to specification. Do not overtighten. Verify the brake line is not kinked, twisted, or under tension.
    ⚠Always use new copper crush washers on banjo fittings. Reused washers will leak.
    Torque spec

    Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Bleed brake caliper
    Attach a clear bleeder hose to the caliper bleeder screw and place the other end into a container partially filled with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal slowly 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw approximately 1/2 turn while assistant maintains pedal pressure. Fluid and air will be expelled. Close the bleeder screw before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the expelled fluid and only clean fluid flows. Top off the master cylinder reservoir frequently during bleeding to prevent introducing air. Once bleeding is complete, torque the bleeder screw to specification.
    ⚠Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding or air will be introduced into the system.
    ⚠Do not overtighten bleeder screws - they are easily damaged and may break off.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Repeat procedure for opposite side
    Perform steps 1 through 12 on the opposite front caliper to complete both front brake caliper rebuilds. Maintain cleanliness and attention to detail throughout. Bleed the second caliper thoroughly using the same procedure.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheels and perform final system bleeding
    Install the front wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until wheels contact the ground but vehicle weight is not fully on wheels. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle completely and remove jack stands. With the vehicle on the ground, pump the brake pedal multiple times until it feels firm and reaches normal height. Check the master cylinder fluid level and top off to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Verify no leaks are present at caliper connections, banjo bolts, or bleeder screws.
    ⚠️The brake pedal MUST feel firm before operating the vehicle. A soft or spongy pedal indicates air in the system or a problem requiring immediate attention.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Installation of components follows the reverse order of removal with specific torque specifications applied
2. All caliper bracket bolts require threadlocker application before installation
3. New copper crush washers must be used on all brake line banjo fittings
4. Slide pin bolts require silicone brake grease on threads and contact surfaces
5. Complete brake system bleeding is mandatory after caliper rebuild

Verification

• Start engine and pump brake pedal - pedal should be firm and hold steady pressure with normal pedal height
• Inspect all connections for brake fluid leaks while assistant applies steady pedal pressure
• Check master cylinder reservoir level - should be at MAX line with no aeration or bubbles visible
• Test brakes at low speed (under 10 mph) in a safe area to verify proper braking response before road use
• Perform a test drive with progressive brake applications from low speeds, gradually increasing speed while verifying straight stops with no pulling
• After initial test drive, recheck all connections and torque specifications while components are warm
• Verify no brake fluid leaks after 24 hours of use and recheck master cylinder fluid level
• Bedding-in procedure: Perform 20-30 moderate stops from 40-50 mph allowing brakes to cool between applications to properly seat new seals

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