drivetrain
CV Axle - Front
for 2002 Dodge Viper 8.0L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.8 h
Tools
12
Steps
15
🔍Draft — verification in progress. This procedure was built from OLP's spec database on September 13, 2026 and is queued for line-by-line review by Chris Hackleman — master technicians with 20+ years each. That review typically completes within 3 days of generation, and this banner changes to a verified badge the moment it does. Until then, cross-check every torque value and fluid capacity against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. If something looks off, report it below — a real person reads every report.
Replacement of the front CV axle assembly on a 1992 Dodge Viper, including hub separation, suspension disconnection, and axle extraction from the differential.
Warnings
⚠️The vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠The axle hub nut is torqued to very high specification and requires a breaker bar for removal. Ensure the vehicle is stable before applying force.
⚠Differential fluid may drain when the axle is removed. Have a drain pan positioned to catch fluid.
ℹ️Mark the side (left/right) of the axle being replaced to ensure correct replacement part is ordered.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Breaker barEssential
Torque wrench (0-250 ft-lb range)Essential
32mm axle nut socketEssential
Standard socket set (metric)Essential
Pry barEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
HammerEssential
Drain panEssential
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Parts
- CV axle assembly (front) × 1 — Use OEM specification for side being replaced
- Axle hub nut × 1 — One-time use fastener
- Differential seal × 1 — Replace if damaged during removal
- Lower ball joint castle nut (if equipped) × 1 — Replace if cotter pin hole is damaged
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground (do not remove).
- With vehicle still on ground and in park/gear, loosen but do not remove the 32mm axle hub nut using breaker bar. This nut is torqued to very high specification.
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified lift points.
- Remove front wheel completely.
Procedure
- 1Remove axle hub nutCompletely remove the 32mm axle hub nut that was previously loosened. Remove and discard the nut as it is a one-time use fastener. Have an assistant apply brake pedal pressure or use a pry bar against the rotor fins to prevent hub rotation if necessary.
- 2Disconnect lower ball joint from knuckleLocate the lower ball joint connection at the steering knuckle. Remove the castle nut (if equipped with cotter pin, remove pin first). Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to break the taper fit between the ball joint stud and knuckle. Strike the separator tool with a hammer to dislodge the joint. The lower control arm will drop away from the knuckle once separated.
- 3Disconnect outer tie rod end (if necessary for clearance)If the CV axle cannot be maneuvered free without additional clearance, remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end castle nut and remove the nut. Use a tie rod separator or pickle fork to break the taper between the tie rod stud and steering knuckle. Apply penetrating oil if the joint is seized.
- 4Support the knuckle assemblyWith the lower ball joint disconnected, the knuckle and hub assembly will want to drop. Support it by hand or use a bungee cord to prevent stress on the brake hose and ABS sensor wire. Do not allow the assembly to hang free by the brake hose.
- 5Separate CV axle from hubPush the CV axle shaft out of the hub splines. The shaft may be tight in the hub bearing. Tap the end of the axle shaft with a brass or dead-blow hammer, or use a wheel hub puller if the shaft is seized. Once the splines are clear, push the knuckle assembly outward away from the vehicle to create working room.
- 6Position drain panPlace a drain pan under the differential at the point where the inner CV joint enters the differential housing. Expect 1-2 quarts of differential fluid to drain when the axle is removed.
- 7Remove inner CV joint from differentialInsert a pry bar between the inner CV joint housing and the differential case. Pry outward with firm, steady pressure to disengage the circlip retaining the axle in the differential. The axle should pop free with a distinct release. If the axle will not release, use a slide hammer with CV axle adapter attached to the inner joint to pull it free. Avoid damaging the differential seal during removal.
- 8Extract CV axle assemblyPull the entire CV axle assembly out of the differential and away from the hub area. Maneuver the axle out of the wheel well, being careful not to damage the CV joint boots on suspension components or frame edges. Inspect the differential seal for damage; replace if torn or leaking.
- 9Clean and inspect mating surfacesClean the hub splines with a wire brush to remove any corrosion or debris. Inspect the hub bearing for roughness or play. Clean the differential opening and inspect the seal. If the seal is damaged or worn, replace it before installing the new axle. Clean the ball joint and tie rod tapers on the knuckle.
- 10Install new CV axle inner jointApply a thin film of differential fluid to the splines of the new CV axle inner joint. Align the axle with the differential opening and push firmly until the circlip seats with a positive click. Tug outward on the axle to verify it is locked in place and will not pull free.
- 11Install CV axle into hubGuide the outer end of the CV axle through the hub bearing. Align the splines and push the shaft into the hub until it is fully seated. You may need to rotate the axle slightly to align the splines. Pull the knuckle assembly back into position.
- 12Reconnect lower ball jointLift the lower control arm and align the ball joint stud with the hole in the steering knuckle. Insert the stud and install a new castle nut. Tighten to specification and install a new cotter pin. If the cotter pin holes do not align, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved.
- 13Reconnect tie rod end (if disconnected)If the tie rod end was disconnected, insert the stud into the steering knuckle, install the castle nut, tighten to specification, and install a new cotter pin. Tighten further if necessary to align cotter pin holes.
- 14Install new axle hub nutInstall the new 32mm axle hub nut onto the CV axle shaft. Hand-tighten only at this stage. Do not torque until the vehicle is back on the ground.
- 15Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (enough to prevent hub rotation). Torque the 32mm axle hub nut to specification using a torque wrench. Lower the vehicle completely and torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
Reassembly
- Torque all fasteners to manufacturer specifications using a calibrated torque wrench.
- Check differential fluid level and top off with 75W-90 GL-5 with limited-slip additive if necessary.
- Inspect CV joint boots for damage or tears before and after installation.
- Verify all suspension and steering connections are tight and properly secured.
Verification
- With vehicle on level ground, turn steering wheel full lock in both directions and listen for clicking or binding from the CV joints.
- Test drive the vehicle and verify no vibration, clicking, or unusual noises during acceleration, deceleration, and turning.
- Recheck axle hub nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving.
- Inspect for differential fluid leaks around the inner CV joint seal area after test drive.