drivetrain
CV Axles - Front Pair
for 2002 Dodge Viper 8.0L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.1 h
Tools
12
Steps
15
🔍Draft — verification in progress. This procedure was built from OLP's spec database on September 13, 2026 and is queued for line-by-line review by Chris Hackleman — master technicians with 20+ years each. That review typically completes within 3 days of generation, and this banner changes to a verified badge the moment it does. Until then, cross-check every torque value and fluid capacity against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. If something looks off, report it below — a real person reads every report.
Replacement of both front CV axles on the 1992 Dodge Viper, requiring suspension disassembly, hub separation, and transmission disconnect.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands before working underneath. Never rely on floor jack alone.
⚠The 32mm axle nut is torqued to very high specification. Break loose while vehicle is on ground with full weight on wheels.
⚠CV axle separation from transmission may allow fluid to drain. Keep drain pan ready and check transmission fluid level after installation.
ℹ️Mark or photograph suspension alignment positions before disassembly to aid reassembly.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (0-250 ft-lb range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
32mm socket for axle nutEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Pry barEssential
Drain panEssential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Wrench set (metric)Essential
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Parts
- Front CV axle assembly (driver side) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Front CV axle assembly (passenger side) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Axle hub nut (32mm) × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Lower ball joint castle nut × 2 — Use OEM specification or reuse if in good condition
- Cotter pins for ball joint × 2 — Standard size for ball joint castle nut
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
- Loosen (but do not remove) the 32mm front axle hub nuts on both sides while vehicle is on the ground with wheels bearing weight. This nut requires significant torque to break free.
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands placed under the frame rails.
- Remove both front wheels.
- Place drain pans under transmission output shafts to catch any fluid leakage during axle removal.
Procedure
- 1Remove axle hub nutWith the wheel removed and vehicle supported, fully remove the 32mm axle hub nut from the hub spindle. This nut should already be loosened from preparation steps. Remove and discard the nut; new nuts should be installed during reassembly.
- 2Disconnect lower ball jointRemove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut. Remove the castle nut securing the lower control arm ball joint to the steering knuckle. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the ball joint taper from the knuckle. Apply penetrating oil if joint is seized. Strike the knuckle boss area with a hammer while applying separator pressure to aid separation.
- 3Separate outer CV joint from hubPush the steering knuckle and hub assembly outward away from the vehicle while pulling the outer CV joint stub shaft out of the hub bearing. The splined shaft should slide free once the axle nut is removed and ball joint is disconnected. If stuck, tap the end of the CV shaft with a dead blow hammer or use a puller to press the shaft from the hub bearing. Be careful not to damage the ABS tone ring (if equipped) on the hub.
- 4Support the axleOnce the outer end is free from the hub, support the axle assembly with wire or a bungee cord to prevent it from hanging and damaging the inner CV boot during inner joint removal.
- 5Remove inner CV joint from transmissionPosition drain pan directly under the inner CV joint at the transmission. Using a pry bar positioned between the inner CV joint housing and the transmission case, carefully pry the inner CV joint straight out from the transmission output shaft. The joint is retained by a circlip inside the transmission and will require firm steady pressure to release. Avoid prying against the CV boot or aluminum transmission case. Once the circlip releases, pull the entire axle assembly out. Allow any transmission fluid to drain into the pan.
- 6Inspect transmission output sealWith the axle removed, inspect the transmission output shaft seal for damage, leakage, or wear. Clean the sealing surface area. If the seal shows any deterioration, it should be replaced at this time to prevent future leaks. Note the condition for reassembly.
- 7Repeat for opposite sideRepeat steps 1 through 6 for the opposite side CV axle. Follow the same sequence: remove hub nut, disconnect lower ball joint, separate outer CV from hub, support axle, remove inner CV from transmission, and inspect seal.
- 8Prepare new CV axlesUnpack new CV axles and verify correct length and configuration match the removed axles. Check that the inner CV joint circlips are properly seated in their grooves on both new axles. Lightly coat the splines of both inner and outer CV joints with clean transmission fluid or multi-purpose grease to aid installation.
- 9Install inner CV joint to transmissionAlign the inner CV joint splines with the transmission output shaft splines. Push the CV joint straight into the transmission with firm pressure until the circlip engages with an audible click or solid stop. Verify engagement by attempting to pull the axle back out—it should not withdraw. The circlip must be fully seated to retain the axle. Repeat for the opposite side.
- 10Install outer CV joint to hubGuide the outer CV joint stub shaft through the steering knuckle and into the hub bearing. Ensure splines are aligned and push the shaft fully into the hub until it seats. The shaft should extend through the hub with threads visible for the axle nut.
- 11Reconnect lower ball jointLift the lower control arm and align the ball joint stud with the hole in the steering knuckle. Insert the stud through the knuckle and install the new or reused castle nut. Tighten the castle nut to specification. Align the castle nut slots with the ball joint stud hole and install a new cotter pin. Bend the cotter pin ends to secure. Repeat for the opposite side.
- 12Install new axle hub nutsThread new 32mm axle hub nuts onto the CV joint stub shafts by hand as far as possible. Do not torque at this time—final torque must be applied with vehicle weight on wheels.
- 13Reinstall wheels and lower vehicleInstall both front wheels and thread lug nuts hand-tight. Carefully lower the vehicle from jack stands until the tires contact the ground but jack stands remain supporting some weight. Tighten wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.
- 14Torque axle hub nutsWith the vehicle on the ground and parking brake engaged, torque both 32mm axle hub nuts to final specification. The high torque requirement necessitates vehicle weight on the wheels to prevent hub rotation during tightening. Apply torque in stages to reach final specification.
- 15Check transmission fluid levelCheck the manual transmission fluid level and top off as necessary with Mopar MS-9224 or 75W-90 GL-4 fluid to compensate for any fluid loss during axle removal. The transmission uses approximately 4.20 quarts total capacity.
Reassembly
- Torque all fasteners to manufacturer specifications when available.
- Ensure both inner CV joint circlips have fully engaged in the transmission before considering installation complete.
- The 32mm axle hub nuts must be torqued with vehicle on the ground to achieve proper specification.
- New axle hub nuts are recommended as they are typically single-use torque-to-yield design.
- Verify both lower ball joint castle nuts are properly aligned with cotter pins installed and secured.
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle and verify no clicking, popping, or vibration from the CV axles during acceleration, deceleration, and turning.
- Check for any transmission fluid leaks at the inner CV joint seals after test drive.
- Verify steering and suspension operation is normal with no binding or unusual noises.
- Recheck the 32mm axle hub nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving.
- Inspect CV boots for proper seating and no damage from installation.