transmission
Pilot Bearing
for 2002 Dodge Viper 8.0L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
7.8 h
Tools
15
Steps
20
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the pilot bearing in the crankshaft that supports the transmission input shaft by removing the transmission and clutch assembly to access the bearing.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠️The transmission weighs approximately 115 pounds. Use a transmission jack or have an assistant to support it during removal and installation.
⚠Clutch disc may contain asbestos depending on manufacture date and replacement history. Avoid creating dust and use appropriate respiratory protection if disc is worn.
⚠Do not allow the transmission input shaft to hang unsupported on the clutch disc during removal or installation, as this can damage the disc and pilot bearing.
ℹ️This is an ideal time to inspect and replace the clutch assembly if wear is present, as the labor overlap is substantial.
Tools required
Combination wrench set (metric)Essential
Torque wrench (25-150 Nm range)Essential
Drain pan (6-quart minimum)Essential
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Parts
- Pilot bearing × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Clutch disc (recommended replacement) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Clutch pressure plate (recommended replacement) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Clutch release bearing (recommended replacement) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Transmission drain plug washer × 1 — Use OEM specification
- High-temperature grease (pilot bearing) × 1 — Mopar or equivalent
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Mopar MS-9224 or 75W-90 GL-4 — 4.2 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery cable to prevent electrical shorts.
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at all four corners, providing adequate working clearance underneath.
- Remove the driver-side sill plate and transmission tunnel cover inside the cabin to access the shifter mechanism.
- Allow exhaust system to cool completely before beginning work.
Procedure
- 1Drain transmission fluidPlace drain pan under transmission drain plug. Remove drain plug from bottom of transmission case and allow fluid to drain completely. Inspect drained fluid for metal particles or unusual debris that may indicate internal damage. Clean drain plug threads and install with new washer once fully drained.Torque specDrain Plug34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
- 2Remove shifter mechanismWorking from inside the vehicle, disconnect the shift linkage at the transmission by removing the shifter boot and unbolting the shift tower from the transmission. The shift tower is secured by bolts accessible from the cabin (verify count against factory service manual). Remove the shifter assembly as a unit to provide clearance for transmission removal.
- 3Disconnect driveshaftMark the orientation of the driveshaft flange to the rear differential pinion flange for proper alignment during reassembly. Remove the bolts securing the driveshaft to the differential (verify count against factory service manual). Support the driveshaft and slide it rearward to disengage the slip yoke from the transmission output shaft. Lower the driveshaft and move it aside or remove completely.
- 4Disconnect hydraulic clutch lineLocate the hydraulic clutch line connection at the bellhousing. Disconnect the hydraulic line from the clutch slave cylinder by removing the retaining clip and pulling the line free. Cap or plug the line to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Note that the 1992 Viper uses an external slave cylinder mounted to the bellhousing.
- 5Remove bellhousing access cover and starterRemove the bellhousing inspection cover from the bottom of the bellhousing to access the flywheel. Disconnect the starter motor electrical connections (positive cable and trigger wire). Remove the bolts securing the starter motor and remove the starter from the bellhousing (verify count against factory service manual).
- 6Support transmission and remove crossmemberPosition transmission jack or floor jack under the transmission oil pan with a block of wood to distribute load. Raise jack just enough to support transmission weight. Remove the 2 bolts on each side securing the transmission mount to the crossmember. Remove the 4 bolts securing the crossmember to the frame and remove the crossmember.
- 7Remove bellhousing boltsRemove all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts. Remove all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts around the perimeter (verify count against factory service manual). Note the location of any different-length bolts or bolts with ground straps attached. Support the transmission securely on the jack throughout this process.Torque specMounting Bolts61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 8Remove transmissionWith an assistant or transmission jack providing support, carefully slide the transmission straight back away from the engine. Ensure the input shaft clears the clutch disc and pilot bearing without binding. The transmission must move rearward approximately 6 inches before the input shaft fully disengages. Once clear, lower the transmission and remove it from under the vehicle.
- 9Remove clutch pressure plate and discInsert clutch alignment tool through the clutch disc to support it and prevent it from falling. If alignment tool is not available, support the disc by hand. Mark the orientation of the pressure plate to the flywheel with a paint pen. Remove the pressure plate bolts in a criss-cross pattern, loosening each bolt gradually (2-3 turns at a time) to prevent warping the pressure plate (verify count against factory service manual). Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc together.Torque specMounting Bolts61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 10Remove pilot bearingInspect the pilot bearing in the center of the crankshaft. The pilot bearing is a sealed needle bearing or bushing pressed into the crankshaft. Using a pilot bearing puller or slide hammer with internal puller attachment, extract the old pilot bearing from the crankshaft bore. If the bearing is difficult to remove, carefully collapse the bearing race with a chisel to provide grip for the puller, taking care not to damage the crankshaft bore.
- 11Clean and inspect crankshaft boreClean the pilot bearing bore in the crankshaft thoroughly using a shop towel and solvent. Remove any debris, old grease, or corrosion. Inspect the bore for scoring, cracks, or damage. The bore must be smooth and clean for proper pilot bearing installation. Use a wire brush on damaged areas if necessary, but avoid removing material from the bore.
- 12Install new pilot bearingLightly coat the outer diameter of the new pilot bearing with high-temperature grease. Do NOT pack the bearing interior with grease, as this can cause hydraulic lock and bearing failure. Orient the bearing with the closed (sealed) side facing outward, away from the crankshaft. Using a pilot bearing installation tool or appropriately-sized deep socket that contacts only the outer race, carefully drive the bearing straight into the crankshaft bore until it is fully seated and flush with the crankshaft face or slightly recessed per the bearing design.
- 13Inspect flywheel and apply greaseInspect the flywheel friction surface for heat checking, cracks, or deep scoring. Minor surface imperfections can be refinished by a machine shop if necessary. Check flywheel bolts for tightness and inspect for any cracks around bolt holes. Apply a thin coating of high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines and to the recess of the pilot bearing where the input shaft tip will ride.
- 14Install clutch disc and pressure platePosition the clutch disc against the flywheel with the correct orientation (the side marked 'flywheel side' or with the protruding hub faces toward the transmission). Insert the clutch alignment tool through the clutch disc hub and into the pilot bearing to hold the disc centered. Place the pressure plate over the clutch disc, aligning the marks made during removal. Install the pressure plate bolts finger-tight (verify count against factory service manual). Tighten the bolts gradually in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torque, moving in 2-3 stages to seat the pressure plate evenly. Leave the alignment tool in place.Torque specMounting Bolts61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 15Install transmissionApply a thin layer of high-temperature grease to the transmission input shaft splines (avoid excess grease that can contaminate the clutch). Position the transmission on the transmission jack and align it with the engine. Carefully slide the transmission forward, ensuring the input shaft enters the clutch disc hub and pilot bearing smoothly. The clutch alignment tool will guide the input shaft into proper alignment. Once the input shaft is fully engaged, continue sliding the transmission forward until the bellhousing contacts the engine block. Do not force the transmission; if it does not slide in smoothly, pull back and check alignment. Remove the clutch alignment tool once the transmission is partially engaged.
- 16Install bellhousing bolts and crossmemberInstall all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts, ensuring any ground straps are reinstalled in their original locations (verify count against factory service manual). Tighten bolts to specification in a criss-cross pattern. Reattach any wiring harness brackets. Position the transmission crossmember and install the frame bolts finger-tight (verify count against factory service manual). Install the transmission mount bolts on both sides, then tighten all crossmember and mount fasteners to specification. Remove the transmission jack.Torque specMounting Bolts61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 17Reinstall starter and bellhousing coverPosition the starter motor into the bellhousing and install the 2 mounting bolts. Reconnect the starter electrical connections (positive cable first, then trigger wire). Install the bellhousing inspection cover and secure with its fasteners.
- 18Reconnect hydraulic clutch line and driveshaftReconnect the hydraulic clutch line to the slave cylinder and secure with the retaining clip. Check that the connection is secure and will not leak. Slide the driveshaft forward and engage the slip yoke into the transmission output shaft. Align the driveshaft flange with the differential pinion flange using the marks made during removal. Install the driveshaft bolts and tighten to specification (verify count against factory service manual).
- 19Reinstall shifter mechanismFrom inside the vehicle, position the shifter assembly over the transmission shift tower. Install the 4 bolts securing the shifter to the transmission and tighten. Reinstall the shifter boot and transmission tunnel cover.
- 20Refill transmission and bleed clutchRefill the transmission with the factory-specified fluid through the fill plug opening on the side of the transmission (verify fluid type and capacity against factory service manual). Fill until fluid begins to drain from the fill hole, indicating proper level. Install the fill plug with new washer and tighten to specification. If air entered the hydraulic clutch system, bleed the clutch according to the factory procedure by pumping the clutch pedal and opening the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder until fluid flows with no air bubbles.Torque specFill Plug34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all electrical connections are secure and routed properly away from heat sources and moving parts.
- Verify the transmission shift linkage operates smoothly through all gears before lowering the vehicle.
- Reinstall sill plate and any interior trim removed for shifter access.
Verification
- Lower vehicle and reconnect negative battery cable.
- Start engine and verify no abnormal noises from the bellhousing or transmission area.
- With engine running and clutch pedal depressed, shift through all gears to verify smooth engagement without grinding.
- Check for transmission fluid leaks around the drain plug, fill plug, and input shaft seal.
- Road test vehicle through all gears, verifying smooth clutch engagement and release with no slippage, chatter, or noise.
- Verify proper clutch pedal feel and travel; re-bleed hydraulic system if pedal feels soft or spongy.
- After test drive, recheck transmission fluid level and inspect for any leaks.