steering
Rack and Pinion Boots
for 2002 Dodge Viper 8.0L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.4 h
Tools
14
Steps
12
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the protective rubber boots on the steering rack and pinion assembly to prevent contamination and premature wear of the steering components.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Power steering fluid will drain from the rack when boots are removed. Have drain pan positioned to catch fluid.
⚠The tie rod end separator can damage boots and seals. Use care when separating ball joints and direct force away from other components.
ℹ️Inspect the entire steering rack for leaks, damage, or excessive play while boots are removed. Replace rack if internal seals are leaking.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Socket set (metric and SAE)Essential
Wrench set (metric and SAE)Essential
Boot clamp pliers or side cuttersEssential
New boot clamps or tie wrapsEssential
Drain panEssential
Torque wrenchEssential
Clean ragsEssential
Grease (lithium-based)Essential
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Parts
- Rack and pinion boot kit (left) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Rack and pinion boot kit (right) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pins for tie rod ends × 2 — Standard 1/8 inch
- Boot clamps × 4 — Included in boot kits or use stainless steel clamps
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Mopar power steering fluid or ATF+3 — 0.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Turn steering wheel to center position and note position for reinstallation
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-approved lift points
- Remove both front wheels
- Spray tie rod end castle nuts with penetrating oil if corroded
Procedure
- 1Remove tie rod end cotter pins and castle nutsLocate the tie rod ends where they connect to the steering knuckles on both sides. Remove and discard the cotter pins from the castle nuts. Using appropriate socket, loosen and remove the castle nuts from both tie rod ends. Keep nuts for reference during reassembly torque procedure.
- 2Separate tie rod ends from steering knucklesUsing a tie rod end separator tool, separate both tie rod ends from the steering knuckles. Position the tool between the steering knuckle and tie rod end taper, and strike or tighten according to tool type until the taper releases. The tie rod end will drop free from the knuckle when separated. Do not damage the steering knuckle bore or tie rod end threads.
- 3Access and expose the steering rack bootsFrom underneath the vehicle, locate the steering rack assembly mounted transversely across the front subframe. Identify the inner and outer boot clamps on both sides of the rack where the boots cover the tie rod connections to the rack housing. Note the orientation of each boot and clamp position for reassembly reference.
- 4Remove outer boot clampsUsing boot clamp pliers or side cutters, carefully cut and remove the outer boot clamps (closest to the tie rod ends) on both sides. If using factory crimp-style clamps, cut the clamp ear and peel away. Position drain pan beneath the rack as power steering fluid will begin to seep from the boot area.
- 5Remove inner boot clamps and bootsCut and remove the inner boot clamps (closest to the steering rack housing) on both sides. Carefully slide each boot off the tie rod shaft and away from the rack housing. Power steering fluid will drain from the rack housing openings. Allow fluid to drain completely into the drain pan. Inspect the tie rod ball socket area and rack housing for damage, excessive wear, or scoring.
- 6Clean tie rod shafts and rack housingUsing clean rags, thoroughly wipe down the exposed tie rod shafts, ball socket areas, and rack housing mounting surfaces where the boots seal. Remove all old grease, fluid residue, and contaminants. Use wire brush if needed to clean grooves where boot clamps seat. Inspect tie rod shafts for pitting or damage that could tear new boots.
- 7Install new boots onto rack housingTake new boots from the boot kits and verify correct left and right orientation (boots may be directional). Slide each new boot onto the rack housing first, positioning the small end of the boot into the groove on the rack housing. Ensure the boot lip seats fully in the housing groove. Do not install inner clamps yet to allow boot adjustment during tie rod installation.
- 8Apply grease and install boots onto tie rodsApply a coating of lithium-based grease to the tie rod ball socket areas and shaft where the boot will cover. Stretch the large end of each boot over the tie rod assembly and onto the tie rod shaft, ensuring the boot is not twisted and covers the entire ball socket area. Work the boot to eliminate any air pockets and ensure proper seating on both the rack housing and tie rod shaft.
- 9Install new boot clampsInstall new inner boot clamps onto the rack housing end of each boot. Position each clamp in the boot groove and tighten securely using boot clamp pliers or appropriate method for clamp style provided in kit. Install outer boot clamps onto the tie rod shaft end of each boot in the same manner. Ensure clamps are tight enough to seal but not so tight as to cut the boot material. Verify boots are not twisted or kinked.
- 10Reconnect tie rod ends to steering knucklesGuide both tie rod ends back into the steering knuckle tapers. Ensure the taper seats fully into the knuckle bore with no gaps. Install the castle nuts onto the tie rod end studs and hand-tighten initially. Using a torque wrench, tighten both castle nuts to specification. Align the castle nut slots with the tie rod end stud hole by tightening further if needed (never loosen to align). Install new cotter pins through the stud holes and bend the ends to secure.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall wheels and lower vehicleInstall both front wheels onto the hubs, ensuring the wheels seat flush against the hub mounting surface. Install all lug nuts and hand-tighten in a star pattern. Using a torque wrench, tighten lug nuts to specification in a star pattern to ensure even clamping force. Lower vehicle from jack stands until wheels contact the ground. Apply final torque to lug nuts while vehicle weight is on the ground.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
- 12Refill and bleed power steering systemLocate the power steering fluid reservoir. Add Mopar ATF (MS-7176 spec, e.g. ATF+ / Dexron-type as specified for this vehicle) or the OEM-specified power steering fluid to bring level to the full cold mark. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock 3-4 times to purge air from the system. Check fluid level and add as needed. Continue turning the wheel until no air bubbles appear in the reservoir and the fluid level stabilizes. Top off fluid to the appropriate mark for operating temperature.
Reassembly
- Verify all boot clamps are secure and boots are properly seated with no twists or kinks
- Confirm tie rod end castle nuts are torqued to specification with new cotter pins installed
- Ensure power steering fluid is at proper level and system is fully bled of air
- Verify no power steering fluid leaks from boots or connections after test drive
Verification
- Start engine and verify smooth power steering operation with no unusual noises
- Turn steering wheel from lock to lock while stationary and verify no binding or resistance
- Inspect all boot clamps and boots for proper seating with no fluid leakage
- Test drive vehicle and verify normal steering feel and response
- After test drive, recheck power steering fluid level and inspect boots for any signs of leakage
- Verify wheel alignment is within specification (boot replacement should not affect alignment, but verify tie rod end position matches pre-removal)