steering
Tie Rod End - Outer
for 2002 Dodge Viper 8.0L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
14
Steps
12
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the outer tie rod end on a 1992 Dodge Viper, including separation from the steering knuckle and adjustment of thread engagement for alignment reference.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Do not use a pickle fork-style separator if you intend to reuse the tie rod end boot, as it will likely tear the boot. Use a proper tie rod end puller instead.
ℹ️Replacing the outer tie rod end will alter wheel alignment. A professional alignment is required after this repair.
ℹ️Mark thread engagement before removal to maintain approximate toe setting for the drive to the alignment shop.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
21mm socket and ratchet (lug nuts)Essential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
19mm wrench (tie rod end nut)Essential
Adjustable wrench or tie rod pliersEssential
Torque wrench (40-100 lb-ft range)Essential
White paint marker or grease pencilEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin (castle nut) × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts on the wheel where the tie rod end is being replaced while vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated lift point.
- Secure vehicle on jack stands at manufacturer-specified support points.
- Remove wheel completely.
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod thread engagementBefore removing the outer tie rod end, use a white paint marker or grease pencil to mark the exact position where the outer tie rod end threads onto the inner tie rod shaft. Make a reference line across both the outer tie rod end body and the inner tie rod threads. Count and record the number of exposed threads visible between the lock nut and the outer tie rod end body. This preserves the approximate toe setting.
- 2Loosen tie rod lock nutLocate the lock nut between the inner and outer tie rod sections. Use an adjustable wrench or tie rod pliers to loosen (but do not remove) the lock nut. It may be corroded; apply penetrating oil and allow it to soak if necessary. Loosen it enough to allow the outer tie rod end to thread off later, but leave it in place for now.
- 3Remove cotter pin from castle nutLocate the castle nut securing the outer tie rod end stud to the steering knuckle. Use needle-nose pliers or diagonal cutters to remove and discard the cotter pin. Bend the cotter pin legs straight if needed, then extract it completely. Discard the old cotter pin.
- 4Remove castle nut from tie rod end studUsing the correct size wrench or socket (verify against factory service manual), remove the castle nut from the outer tie rod end stud. Keep the nut if the tie rod end is being reused; otherwise discard. Do not strike the stud threads while the nut is removed, as this will damage the threads.
- 5Separate tie rod end from steering knuckleUse a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork to separate the tie rod end stud from the steering knuckle. Position the separator between the tie rod end body and the knuckle mounting boss. Strike the separator with a ball joint hammer or use the screw-type separator to apply pressure until the taper releases with a distinct pop. If using a pickle fork, expect the boot to be damaged. Once separated, the tie rod end stud will drop free from the knuckle.
- 6Remove outer tie rod end from inner tie rodThread the lock nut further toward the outer tie rod end to expose more threads. While holding the inner tie rod shaft steady with a wrench on the flats (if provided), unscrew the outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand or with an adjustable wrench on the tie rod end body. Count the number of turns required to remove it, or verify against your paint mark. Remove the lock nut completely from the inner tie rod threads.
- 7Clean inner tie rod threadsInspect the inner tie rod threads for damage, corrosion, or debris. Use a wire brush to clean the threads thoroughly. Check that the threads are not stripped or cross-threaded. Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound or penetrating oil to the clean threads to prevent future corrosion.
- 8Install new outer tie rod endThread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod shaft first, moving it toward the inner end. Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod clockwise by hand. Align the paint mark or thread the outer tie rod end in the same number of turns as recorded during removal. The goal is to match the previous thread engagement as closely as possible. Do not tighten the lock nut yet.
- 9Install tie rod end stud into steering knuckleInsert the outer tie rod end stud into the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. Ensure the stud is fully seated in the taper. Thread the castle nut onto the stud by hand until snug.
- 10Torque castle nut and install cotter pinUsing a torque wrench and the correct size socket (verify against factory service manual), torque the castle nut to the manufacturer-specified value. After reaching the specified torque, check that one of the castle nut slots aligns with the hole in the stud. If a slot does not align, adjust the nut per the factory service manual (typically tighten slightly to the next slot) until a slot aligns with the hole. Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut slot and stud hole. Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut slot and stud hole, then bend the legs of the cotter pin outward to secure it.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 11Snug tie rod lock nutHand-tighten the lock nut against the outer tie rod end body to snug it, but do not torque it to final specification yet. The lock nut will be torqued to specification after the vehicle has been aligned. This prevents the outer tie rod end from threading in or out during the drive to the alignment shop.
- 12Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel onto the hub, threading the lug nuts by hand to start. Lower the vehicle so the tire just contacts the ground but the suspension is not yet loaded. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands. Torque lug nuts again in a star pattern with the vehicle weight on the ground.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- After professional wheel alignment is completed, torque the tie rod lock nut to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) to lock the adjustment in place.
- Verify cotter pin is properly installed and legs are bent to prevent backing out.
Verification
- Confirm the castle nut is torqued to specification and secured with a new cotter pin with bent legs.
- Check that the tie rod end stud has no play in the steering knuckle by attempting to move it by hand.
- Verify the lock nut is snugged against the outer tie rod end body to prevent thread movement.
- Drive vehicle to alignment shop immediately and have front-end alignment performed to manufacturer specifications.
- After alignment, confirm tie rod lock nut has been torqued to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).