steering
Tie Rods - Both Sides
for 2002 Dodge Viper 8.0L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.4 h
Tools
11
Steps
15
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace both inner and outer tie rod ends on the 1992 Dodge Viper, including steering gear boot inspection and alignment preparation.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Alignment will be affected by this repair. Professional wheel alignment is required after tie rod replacement.
⚠Tie rod end separators generate high force. Wear eye protection and ensure the tool is properly seated to prevent slippage.
ℹ️Mark the position of adjustable components before removal to approximate the original alignment settings.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm socket for wheel lug nutsEssential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
Torque wrench (0-150 lb-ft range)Essential
Cotter pin pliersEssential
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Parts
- Outer tie rod end - left × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Outer tie rod end - right × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Inner tie rod assembly - left × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Inner tie rod assembly - right × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pins × 2 — 1/8" diameter
- Steering gear boot kit (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground, but do not remove.
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at approved lift point and support securely on jack stands under frame rails.
- Remove front wheels completely and set aside.
Procedure
- 1Mark alignment reference positionBefore removing any components, use a white paint marker or grease pencil to mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads. Count and record the number of exposed threads between the outer tie rod end and the jam nut. This reference will help approximate the original toe setting during reassembly.
- 2Remove outer tie rod end cotter pin and castle nutLocate the outer tie rod end connection at the steering knuckle. Use cotter pin pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Discard the old cotter pin. Remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud using an appropriate socket. If the stud spins, use a wrench on the tie rod end body to hold it stationary.
- 3Separate outer tie rod end from steering knucklePosition a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork between the steering knuckle and the tie rod end. Strike the tool firmly with a hammer to break the taper fit and separate the tie rod end stud from the knuckle bore. Once separated, pull the tie rod end stud completely out of the knuckle. Inspect the knuckle taper bore for damage or debris.⚠The separator tool may damage the tie rod end boot. Since the tie rod ends are being replaced, this is acceptable for this procedure.
- 4Loosen tie rod jam nutLocate the jam nut (lock nut) that secures the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod. Apply penetrating oil if the threads appear corroded. Use a large adjustable wrench or appropriately sized wrench to loosen the jam nut, turning it counterclockwise. Do not remove the jam nut completely yet; leave it threaded on the inner tie rod.
- 5Remove outer tie rod endUnthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod by turning it counterclockwise. Count the number of full turns required to remove it and record this number. Remove the jam nut from the inner tie rod threads. Clean the inner tie rod threads with a wire brush and inspect for damage.
- 6Inspect and mark inner tie rod positionExamine the steering gear boot for tears, cracks, or grease leakage. If damaged, the boot must be replaced. Mark the position of the inner tie rod relative to the steering rack using a paint marker. This serves as a reference point for the new inner tie rod installation. Note the orientation of the inner tie rod assembly.
- 7Remove inner tie rod assemblyPull back the steering gear boot to expose the inner tie rod connection to the steering rack. The inner tie rod end connects to the center link (relay rod) via a tapered ball stud secured by a castle nut and cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin, then remove the castle nut. Use a tie rod separator to break the taper and separate the inner tie rod end from the center link. Verify the exact steering linkage configuration against the vehicle service manual before removal.
- 8Install new inner tie rod assemblyInsert the new inner tie rod ball stud into the tapered bore of the center link. Install the castle nut and tighten to the specified torque. If the castle nut slots do not align with the stud cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) until a slot aligns, then install a new cotter pin. Verify all torque values and linkage details against the vehicle service manual.ding to the design.ℹ️The torque specification listed applies to the lock nut securing inner to outer tie rod. Inner tie rod to rack torque may differ; consult service manual if available.Torque specTie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
- 9Install steering gear bootIf the steering gear boot was removed or is being replaced, slide the new boot over the inner tie rod and seat it properly in the grooves on both the steering rack housing and the inner tie rod body. Ensure the boot is not twisted and is fully seated. Secure the boot with new clamps if provided, ensuring they are tight enough to prevent grease leakage but not so tight as to cut the boot material.
- 10Install outer tie rod end and jam nutThread the jam nut onto the inner tie rod first, followed by the new outer tie rod end. Turn the outer tie rod end clockwise onto the inner tie rod threads. Using your recorded turn count or thread exposure marks, thread the outer tie rod end to approximately the same position as the original. The jam nut should remain loose at this point to allow for adjustment.
- 11Connect outer tie rod end to steering knuckleInsert the outer tie rod end stud into the taper bore of the steering knuckle. Ensure the stud is fully seated in the taper. Install the castle nut onto the stud and tighten to the specified torque. If the castle nut slots do not align with the stud hole for the cotter pin, tighten the nut further (never loosen) until the next slot aligns with the hole.⚠Never loosen the castle nut to align cotter pin holes. Always tighten to the next available slot.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 12Install new cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the castle nut slot and the tie rod end stud hole. Bend the cotter pin ends around the castle nut to secure it in place. Ensure the cotter pin is properly seated and cannot work loose.
- 13Tighten tie rod jam nutHold the outer tie rod end body with a wrench to prevent it from turning. Tighten the jam nut clockwise against the outer tie rod end to the specified torque. Verify that the outer tie rod end did not rotate during jam nut tightening by checking your alignment reference marks.Torque specTie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
- 14Repeat procedure for opposite sidePerform steps 1 through 13 for the opposite side of the vehicle, replacing both the inner and outer tie rod ends using the same procedures and torque specifications.
- 15Reinstall wheels and lower vehiclePosition the front wheels onto the wheel hubs and thread all lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to the specified torque. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands to the ground. With the vehicle weight on the wheels, perform a final torque verification of all lug nuts in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- All fasteners must be torqued to specification using a calibrated torque wrench.
- New cotter pins must be used; never reuse old cotter pins.
- Steering gear boots must be properly seated and clamped to prevent contamination and grease loss.
Verification
- Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary to verify full range of motion without binding or unusual noises.
- Visually inspect all tie rod end connections to ensure castle nuts are properly torqued and cotter pins are installed.
- Check that steering gear boots are properly seated with no visible tears or displacement.
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment immediately. The vehicle should be driven directly to an alignment facility as toe settings will be significantly altered.
- After alignment, test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify straight-line tracking and proper steering response.