Radiator Hoses - Both

Complete replacement of upper and lower radiator hoses on the 2005 Dodge Viper 8.3L V10, including coolant drain, hose removal, installation with new spring clamps, and system refill with proper bleeding procedure.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper radiator hose × 1 — Mopar 52080333AB or equivalent
• Lower radiator hose × 1 — Mopar 52080334AB or equivalent
• Radiator hose spring clamps × 4 — OEM constant-tension spring clamps
• Coolant drain plug gasket × 1 — Replace if damaged during removal

Fluids

• Zerex G-05 HOAT 50/50 — 19 qt

Preparation

1. Ensure engine is completely cold (ambient temperature).
2. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
3. Remove radiator cap slowly to release any residual pressure.
4. Place 3-gallon drain pan under radiator drain plug location at bottom driver-side corner of radiator.
5. Verify you have 19 quarts of Zerex G-05 HOAT coolant available for refill.

Procedure

1. 1

   Drain cooling system
   Locate the coolant drain plug at the bottom driver-side corner of the radiator. Using a socket, slowly remove the drain plug and allow coolant to drain completely into the drain pan. Inspect the drain plug gasket and replace if damaged or hardened. Once drained, reinstall the drain plug/petcock and tighten to specification (hand-tight for plastic petcock, or per factory service manual if a torque spec is listed).
   Torque spec

   Coolant Drain Plug15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Access upper radiator hose connections
   The upper radiator hose connects the top driver-side radiator tank to the thermostat housing on the front of the engine. Trace the hose routing and identify both connection points. Note the orientation of any formed bends in the hose for proper installation of the replacement.
3. 3

   Remove upper hose clamps
   Using hose clamp pliers, compress the spring clamp at the radiator end of the upper hose and slide it back along the hose at least 2 inches away from the radiator neck. Repeat for the spring clamp at the thermostat housing end. If clamps are corroded and difficult to move, use needle-nose pliers to carefully expand the clamp tabs. Mark clamp orientation if reusing factory clamps.
4. 4

   Remove upper radiator hose
   Twist the upper hose at both ends to break any seal between the rubber and the metal necks. Pull the hose off the radiator neck first, then remove from the thermostat housing. Residual coolant will drain from the hose; have shop rags ready. Inspect the radiator neck and thermostat housing for corrosion, cracks, or damage. Clean both surfaces with a shop rag.
5. 5

   Access lower radiator hose connections
   The lower radiator hose connects the bottom passenger-side radiator tank to the water pump inlet on the front-passenger side of the engine block. Access is tight; use a flashlight to identify both connection points. The lower hose routing passes near the oil filter and front crossmember.
6. 6

   Remove lower hose clamps
   Working from underneath or through the wheel well, use hose clamp pliers to compress the spring clamp at the radiator end of the lower hose and slide it back along the hose. Access to the water pump end clamp is restricted; work carefully to compress and slide the clamp away from the water pump inlet neck. You may need to reach from above near the oil filter area for best access.
7. 7

   Remove lower radiator hose
   Twist the lower hose firmly at both connection points to break the seal. Remove from the radiator tank first by pulling straight back, then maneuver the hose to separate it from the water pump inlet. The hose may be routed through tight spaces; work patiently to extract it without damaging surrounding components. Allow any residual coolant to drain into the pan.
8. 8

   Inspect cooling system components
   With both hoses removed, inspect the radiator tank necks for cracks, corrosion, or deformation. Check the thermostat housing and water pump inlet necks for damage or excessive corrosion. Verify that all mating surfaces are clean and smooth. If any necks show significant corrosion or damage, address those repairs before installing new hoses.
9. 9

   Install lower radiator hose
   Position new spring clamps on the new lower radiator hose approximately 2 inches from each end, with clamp tabs accessible for installation. Route the lower hose into position, matching the factory path. Push the hose firmly onto the water pump inlet neck until it bottoms against the stop ridge (typically 1.5-2 inches of insertion). Install the hose onto the radiator tank neck with the same depth. Ensure the hose is not kinked or in contact with sharp edges.
10. 10

    Secure lower hose clamps
    Using hose clamp pliers, position the spring clamp at the water pump end so it sits approximately 0.5 inches from the end of the neck, centered over the neck bead. Ensure the clamp is fully compressed and seated. Repeat for the radiator end clamp. Verify both clamps are correctly positioned over the raised bead on each neck for proper sealing. Tug the hose at each connection to confirm it is secure.
    Torque spec

    Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Install upper radiator hose
    Position new spring clamps on the new upper radiator hose approximately 2 inches from each end. Install the hose onto the thermostat housing neck first, pushing firmly until it seats against the stop ridge. Route the hose following the factory path and install onto the radiator tank neck, ensuring proper insertion depth. Verify the hose orientation matches the clearances for the hood latch area and does not interfere with any moving components.
12. 12

    Secure upper hose clamps
    Using hose clamp pliers, position the spring clamp at the thermostat housing end approximately 0.5 inches from the end of the neck, centered over the neck bead. Release the pliers to allow the clamp to compress the hose. Repeat for the radiator end clamp. Ensure both clamps are properly seated and provide even compression around the circumference of each connection.
    Torque spec

    Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Refill cooling system
    Verify the radiator drain plug is torqued to specification. Slowly fill the cooling system through the coolant pressure bottle/filler neck with Zerex G-05 HOAT 50/50 coolant. Fill until coolant reaches the base of the filler neck. Allow the coolant to settle for 2-3 minutes as air escapes. Continue filling as needed. Install the radiator cap.
14. 14

    Bleed cooling system
    Start the engine and allow it to idle with the heater set to maximum temperature and fan on high. Monitor the temperature gauge closely. As the thermostat opens (verify opening temperature against factory specification), coolant level will drop. Carefully remove the radiator cap when safe and add coolant to maintain proper level. Run the engine until the cooling fans cycle on and off twice, indicating full system bleed. Shut off the engine and allow to cool.
15. 15

    Final coolant level adjustment
    Once the engine has cooled to ambient temperature, check the coolant level in the radiator with the cap removed. Add coolant as necessary to bring level to the base of the filler neck. Reinstall radiator cap. Check the coolant overflow reservoir and fill to the COLD mark if needed. Verify total system capacity against the factory service manual; track coolant used to confirm proper fill.

Reassembly

1. No disassembly of surrounding components was required for this procedure; all connections are direct reinstallation.

Verification

• Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature while monitoring for leaks at all four hose connections.
• Check for coolant drips or seepage at the radiator necks, thermostat housing, and water pump inlet after the engine reaches normal temperature.
• Verify the temperature gauge reads in the normal range (typically 180-210°F) and cooling fans cycle properly.
• After the first test drive (20-30 minutes of operation), recheck coolant level when cold and top off if necessary.
• Inspect all hose clamp positions to ensure they have not shifted during thermal cycling.
• Monitor coolant level over the next few days of driving to confirm the system is fully bled and no leaks are present.

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