transmission
Transmission R&R - Automatic
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
6.9 h
Tools
14
Steps
10
🔍Draft — verification in progress. This procedure was built from OLP's spec database on September 13, 2026 and is queued for line-by-line review by Chris Hackleman — master technicians with 20+ years each. That review typically completes within 3 days of generation, and this banner changes to a verified badge the moment it does. Until then, cross-check every torque value and fluid capacity against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. If something looks off, report it below — a real person reads every report.
Remove and reinstall the automatic transmission on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including driveshaft removal, crossmember support, torque converter separation, and all necessary electrical and fluid connections.
Warnings
⚠️The transmission weighs approximately 150-180 lbs. Use a proper transmission jack and ensure secure support at all times. Failure can result in severe injury or death.
⚠️The exhaust system will be extremely hot if the vehicle was recently run. Allow at least 2 hours for cooling before beginning work.
⚠Automatic transmission fluid is toxic and flammable. Work in a well-ventilated area and dispose of used fluid according to local regulations.
⚠Mark all electrical connectors and their locations before disconnection to ensure correct reassembly.
ℹ️This procedure requires the vehicle to be lifted high enough to provide adequate working clearance beneath. Professional lift or high-capacity jack stands are strongly recommended.
Tools required
Transmission jack with adaptersEssential
Socket set (metric and standard)Essential
Torx bit set (T30, T40, T45, T50)Essential
Torque wrench (ft-lb range)Essential
Drain pan (minimum 6 quart capacity)Essential
Transmission fluid fill pumpEssential
Work lightEssential
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Parts
- Transmission pan gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Torque converter seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Driveshaft U-joint bolts (if worn or damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Transmission mount (if worn) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust gaskets (if disturbed) × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Mopar ATF+4 — 12 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery cable to prevent electrical shorts during connector removal.
- Raise vehicle on lift or support securely on jack stands at all four corners, ensuring adequate working height beneath transmission (minimum 24 inches recommended).
- Remove engine cover if equipped to access transmission filler tube.
- Place drain pan beneath transmission and drain transmission fluid by removing pan bolts gradually, starting with one side to allow controlled draining.
- Remove transmission pan completely and set aside. Inspect for debris or metal shavings that may indicate internal damage.
- Mark the torque converter and flexplate relationship with paint pen for correct reassembly alignment.
Procedure
- 1Remove transmission filler tubeLocate the transmission filler tube on the passenger side of the engine bay. Remove the mounting bolt at the top securing the tube to the engine. Carefully pull the filler tube upward to disengage it from the transmission case. There may be an O-ring seal at the bottom that should be inspected and replaced if damaged.
- 2Disconnect electrical connectionsFrom beneath the vehicle, locate and disconnect all electrical connectors on the transmission. This includes the transmission range sensor, speed sensor, shift solenoid connector block, and transmission temperature sensor. Press the release tabs and pull connectors straight off. Mark each connector location with tape or take reference photos.
- 3Disconnect transmission cooler linesUsing line wrenches, disconnect the two transmission cooler lines at the transmission case. These are typically located on the passenger side of the transmission. Cap or plug the lines and transmission ports immediately to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Be prepared for residual fluid drainage.
- 4Remove driveshaftMark the driveshaft-to-differential flange relationship for correct reinstallation phasing. Remove the 4 bolts securing the rear driveshaft flange to the differential pinion flange. Support the driveshaft center section and carefully slide the front yoke out of the transmission tailshaft. A small amount of fluid will drain from the tailhousing. Cap or cover the transmission output to prevent further fluid loss and contamination ingress.
- 5Remove transmission crossmember and mountSupport the transmission with a transmission jack positioned at the center of the transmission pan rail. Remove the 2 bolts securing the transmission mount to the crossmember. Then remove the 4 bolts securing the crossmember to the frame rails (2 per side). Carefully lower the transmission jack slightly to allow crossmember removal and set the crossmember aside.
- 6Disconnect shift linkageLocate the shift cable or linkage connection at the transmission shift lever on the driver side of the transmission. Remove the retaining clip and disconnect the shift cable from the lever. Note the cable routing for reinstallation. If equipped with a separate park/neutral switch linkage, disconnect that as well.
- 7Access torque converter boltsThrough the starter motor opening or dedicated access hole in the bellhousing, rotate the engine crankshaft using a socket on the front crankshaft bolt to bring each torque converter-to-flexplate bolt into view. Remove all 4 torque converter mounting bolts. Use a marker to index one converter mounting pad to the flexplate for reassembly. Keep the transmission jack supporting the transmission weight.
- 8Remove bellhousing-to-engine boltsRemove all bellhousing mounting bolts securing the transmission to the engine block. There are typically 6-8 bolts positioned around the perimeter of the bellhousing. Note that bolt lengths may vary by position. Locate and remove any ground straps or cable brackets attached to bellhousing bolts. Keep bolts organized by location.
- 9Separate transmission from engineVerify that all fasteners, lines, cables, and electrical connections have been disconnected. Ensure the torque converter is secured to the transmission (use C-clamps or safety wire through converter bolt holes to bell housing to prevent converter from sliding out). Slowly pull the transmission straight back on the transmission jack, maintaining level orientation. The transmission must slide straight back approximately 2-3 inches to disengage the torque converter hub from the crankshaft pilot. Once clear of the engine dowel pins, carefully lower and roll the transmission out from under the vehicle.
- 10Inspect and prepare for installationWith the transmission removed, inspect the engine flexplate for cracks, especially around the bolt holes and center. Check the crankshaft pilot bushing or bearing for wear. Inspect the torque converter hub seal surface for grooves. If installing a replacement transmission, ensure the torque converter is fully seated in the transmission pump by verifying proper engagement depth. The converter should be recessed approximately 1/2 inch or more from the bellhousing mating surface. Measure and compare to old unit if uncertain. Install a new front seal in the transmission pump if the old seal shows any leakage or wear.
Reassembly
- Installation is the reverse of removal with the following critical points:
- Ensure torque converter is fully seated in transmission pump before mating to engine. Confirm proper engagement by measuring recess depth and attempting to rotate converter freely.
- When positioning transmission to engine, verify torque converter hub engages crankshaft pilot smoothly. Do not use bellhousing bolts to draw transmission to engine—the transmission should slide into place with minimal force.
- Align torque converter-to-flexplate index marks made during disassembly before installing converter bolts.
- When installing driveshaft, align the marks made during removal to maintain driveshaft balance phasing.
- Fill transmission with fresh Mopar ATF+4 through the filler tube. Initial fill should be approximately 8 quarts, then start engine and add fluid while checking level according to dipstick or fill procedure.
- After installation, cycle transmission through all gear ranges with engine running to circulate fluid, then recheck and adjust fluid level to proper mark on dipstick in Park with engine at operating temperature.
Verification
- With engine running and parking brake engaged, shift through all transmission ranges (P-R-N-D-L) and verify smooth engagement in each position.
- Check for fluid leaks at transmission pan, cooler lines, filler tube, front seal area, and tailhousing.
- Verify transmission fluid level is correct with engine at operating temperature, vehicle level, and transmission in Park.
- Test drive vehicle and confirm all gear shifts occur smoothly without slipping, harsh engagement, or abnormal noises.
- Verify no check engine lights or transmission-related fault codes are present after test drive.
- Recheck all fluid levels and inspect for leaks after test drive and after 50-100 miles of operation.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0218Transmission Over Temperature ConditionP0700Transmission Control System (MIL Request)P0701Transmission Control System Range/PerformanceP0710Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor CircuitP0711Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Range/PerformanceP0730Incorrect Gear RatioP0750Shift Solenoid AP0751Shift Solenoid A Performance/Stuck OffP0760Shift Solenoid CP0761Shift Solenoid C Performance/Stuck OffP0770Shift Solenoid EP0771Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off
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