Brake Caliper - Front

Replace the front brake caliper on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including brake line disconnection, caliper and bracket removal, installation of new caliper, and brake system bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper (left or right as needed) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Brake line banjo bolt copper washers × 2 — Two washers per banjo bolt fitting
• Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent

Fluids

• DOT 4 brake fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground. Engage parking brake firmly.
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground.
4. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer's specified jacking point.
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at proper frame support points.
6. Remove front wheel completely.
7. Verify brake system is cool to the touch.
8. Open brake fluid reservoir cap slowly to relieve system pressure and facilitate caliper removal. Place clean rag over opening to prevent contamination.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect brake line from caliper
   Locate the brake line banjo bolt on the rear of the caliper body. Place a catch pan underneath to collect brake fluid. Using a 13mm flare nut wrench or standard wrench, loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Brake fluid will drain from the line. Once bolt is removed, immediately cap or plug the brake line to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination. Note the position of the two copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting) and discard them—they must not be reused.
2. 2

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper mounting bolts that secure the fixed Brembo caliper directly to the steering knuckle. Remove both caliper mounting bolts completely using the correct socket size (verify against factory service spec). Support the caliper as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling.
3. 3

   Remove caliper from rotor
   Lift the caliper assembly straight up and off the brake rotor and bracket. The caliper should now be free with the brake line disconnected. Remove the caliper completely from the vehicle. Inspect the brake pads—if they remain in the bracket, remove them and set aside if reusing, or discard if replacing.
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket
   Locate the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are large bolts, typically requiring an 18mm socket. Remove both bracket bolts completely and remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle. These bolts are torque-critical and should have threadlocker applied on reinstallation.
5. 5

   Clean mounting surfaces
   Use a wire brush and brake cleaner to thoroughly clean the caliper bracket mounting surface on the steering knuckle. Remove any corrosion, old threadlocker, or debris. Clean the brake rotor mounting hub face if accessible. This ensures proper seating and prevents caliper misalignment.
6. 6

   Install caliper bracket
   Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker to the threads of both caliper bracket bolts. Position the caliper bracket on the steering knuckle, aligning the bolt holes. Install both bracket bolts and hand-tighten. Using a torque wrench, tighten the caliper mounting bolts to the factory-specified torque (verify against the 2008 Viper service manual) in a criss-cross pattern. Verify the bracket is secure and properly seated against the knuckle.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Install brake pads
   Install the brake pads into the caliper bracket. The pads should slide into the bracket mounting ears with the friction material facing the rotor. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake lubricant to the pad backing plates where they contact the bracket ears and any anti-rattle clips, but keep lubricant away from friction surfaces.
8. 8

   Prepare new caliper
   Unbox the new caliper and verify it matches the original (left or right side, mounting configuration). Check that the bleeder screw is present and tight. If the opposed caliper pistons are not fully retracted, use a suitable pad-spreader or piston tool to carefully compress all pistons into their bores to provide clearance for the rotor and pad installation.
9. 9

   Install caliper onto bracket
   Position the new fixed caliper over the brake rotor, aligning the caliper mounting holes with the steering knuckle. Install both caliper mounting bolts and hand-tighten, then torque to the manufacturer's specification. Verify the caliper is rigidly seated against the knuckle with no gap.
10. 10

    Connect brake line to caliper
    Install a NEW copper crush washer onto the brake line banjo fitting. Position the banjo fitting into the caliper inlet port, then install the second NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo bolt. Thread the banjo bolt through the fitting and into the caliper body by hand. Using the correct wrench and a torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to the factory-specified torque (verify against the 2008 Viper service manual). Do not overtighten. Verify the banjo fitting is properly seated and the washers are correctly positioned.
    Torque spec

    Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Bleed brake caliper
    Attach a clear hose to the caliper bleeder screw and route the other end into a catch container. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Using an 8mm wrench, open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Fluid and air will discharge through the hose. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until fluid flows with no air bubbles. Check the master cylinder reservoir frequently and top off with fresh DOT 4 fluid—never let it run dry. Once bleeding is complete, tighten the bleeder screw to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft).
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel
    Clean the wheel mounting surface on the hub. Position the wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts. Lower the vehicle slightly so the wheel contacts the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specification in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.

Reassembly

1. After wheel installation, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. The first few pedal strokes will feel soft as the caliper piston extends to contact the pads.
2. Check brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Top off to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4 fluid if needed. Reinstall reservoir cap securely.
3. Inspect the brake line connection at the caliper for any signs of leakage. Wipe the area dry and observe while an assistant presses the brake pedal firmly.
4. If replacing only one caliper, consider replacing the opposite side caliper to maintain balanced braking performance.
5. Torque wheel lug nuts to final specification after lowering vehicle.

Verification

• With vehicle on the ground and engine off, pump brake pedal firmly 10-15 times. Pedal should become firm and hold steady pressure. If pedal is spongy or sinks slowly, air remains in the system—bleed again.
• Start engine (power brake booster will activate) and verify pedal remains firm with moderate pressure. Pedal should not sink to the floor.
• Check all brake line connections and bleeder screw for fluid leaks. Wipe connections dry and inspect after applying brake pressure.
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area. Brakes should engage smoothly without pulling to one side. If vehicle pulls, recheck installation and consider replacing opposite caliper.
• Before returning vehicle to normal service, perform a controlled brake test at moderate speed (25-30 mph) in a safe location to verify proper brake function.
• Check brake fluid level in reservoir after test drive. Level should be between MIN and MAX marks.

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