Brake Caliper - Rear

Procedure to remove and replace the rear brake caliper on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including brake line disconnection, caliper removal, and brake system bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent (Brembo OEM)
• Brake line copper crush washers × 2 — Use OEM specification - 2 required per banjo bolt
• Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent

Fluids

• DOT 4 brake fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground. Apply parking brake and place transmission in first gear (manual) or Park (if equipped with automatic).
2. Place wheel chocks at front wheels to prevent vehicle movement.
3. Using a turkey baster or brake fluid syringe, remove approximately half the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing pistons. Dispose of old fluid properly.
4. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove yet).
5. Raise rear of vehicle using floor jack at appropriate jacking point and secure with jack stands rated for vehicle weight. Refer to owner's manual for jack point locations.
6. Remove rear wheel and tire completely.
7. Inspect brake components for excessive wear, damage, or fluid leaks before proceeding.

Procedure

1. 1

   Prepare brake line for disconnection
   Clean the area around the brake line banjo bolt connection at the caliper using a wire brush to remove dirt and corrosion. Position a brake fluid catch container beneath the caliper to capture fluid that will drain when the line is disconnected. Have clean rags ready to minimize fluid spillage.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake line from caliper
   Using a flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the brake line banjo bolt from the rear of the caliper. The bolt secures the brake line with two copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting). Once removed, immediately cap or plug the brake line end to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination. Discard the old copper crush washers - they must not be reused. Allow residual brake fluid to drain into the catch container.
   ⚠Brake fluid will immediately begin draining once the banjo bolt is loosened. Work quickly to minimize spillage and environmental contamination.
3. 3

   Remove caliper slide pins or mounting bolts
   The rear caliper is a fixed (opposed-piston) Brembo design secured to the caliper bracket/upright by two mounting bolts. Using the appropriate socket, remove both caliper mounting bolts. Using the appropriate socket, remove both caliper slide pin bolts completely. If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil and allow time to soak before attempting removal. Keep these bolts organized for reinstallation or replacement.
   ℹ️Do not confuse caliper slide pin bolts with the larger caliper bracket mounting bolts. The slide pins allow the floating caliper to move during brake application.
4. 4

   Remove caliper from rotor and bracket
   With the slide pin bolts removed, carefully lift the caliper away from the brake rotor and caliper bracket. The caliper should separate cleanly. If the caliper is being replaced, it can now be set aside. If you are temporarily removing the caliper for other service, support it using a caliper hanger or mechanics wire attached to the suspension - never allow the caliper to hang by the brake line.
5. 5

   Inspect caliper bracket and hardware
   With the caliper removed, inspect the caliper bracket for damage, excessive wear, or corrosion. Check the slide pin bores in the bracket for smooth operation. If the bracket shows damage or if you are performing a complete brake service, you may choose to remove the bracket by removing the two caliper bracket bolts (verify exact torque in the factory service manual before reinstallation). For caliper replacement only, the bracket typically remains installed. Note: The Viper rear calipers are fixed opposed-piston (4-piston) Brembo design.
   ℹ️Caliper bracket removal is not required for caliper replacement alone, but may be necessary for rotor service or thorough cleaning. If removed, apply medium-strength threadlocker to bracket bolts upon reinstallation.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts133 Nm (98 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Prepare new caliper for installation
   Remove the new caliper from its packaging and verify it matches the original caliper design and configuration. Remove any shipping plugs or protective caps from the brake line port. Inspect the caliper piston boot for damage and verify the piston moves smoothly. If the caliper came with pre-installed slide pins, verify they are properly lubricated with high-temperature brake grease. Clean any preservative oil from external surfaces.
7. 7

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align it with the caliper bracket. The caliper body should fit over the rotor with the brake pads (if pre-installed in caliper) positioned on each side of the rotor. Align the slide pin bolt holes in the caliper with the threaded bores in the bracket or slide pins. If installing onto the original bracket with existing slide pins, ensure pins are clean and properly lubricated.
8. 8

   Install and tighten caliper slide pin bolts
   Thread both caliper mounting bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Once both bolts are seated, torque them to the manufacturer's specification in an alternating pattern. Verify the exact caliper mounting bolt torque against the factory service manual before final tightening. The caliper is a fixed design and should be rigidly mounted with no movement after tightening.ening.
9. 9

   Reconnect brake line to caliper
   Install NEW copper crush washers onto the brake line banjo fitting - place one washer on each side of the banjo fitting eye. Position the banjo fitting into the brake line port on the caliper, ensuring proper alignment. Thread the banjo bolt by hand through the fitting and into the caliper port. Once hand-tight, torque the banjo bolt to the factory-specified value (verify exact spec in the service manual; typical range is 30-40 Nm / 22-30 lb-ft) using a torque wrench. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the caliper port threads or crush washers. Note: Using a box-end wrench or six-point socket, carefully loosen and remove the brake line banjo bolt from the rear of the caliper.
   ⚠️CRITICAL: Always use NEW copper crush washers when connecting brake lines. Reusing old washers will result in brake fluid leaks and potential brake system failure. Verify two washers are installed (one on each side of the banjo fitting).
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Bleed rear brake caliper
    Locate the brake bleeder screw on the rear of the caliper body (typically covered by a rubber cap). Attach a clear bleeder hose to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container partially filled with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. While pressure is held, open the bleeder screw 1/2 to 3/4 turn - old fluid and air will discharge through the hose. Close the bleeder screw before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until clean, air-free fluid flows from the bleeder with no bubbles visible in the hose. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir frequently during bleeding to prevent introducing additional air.
    ⚠️CRITICAL: Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding. This will introduce air into the ABS system and require specialized equipment to purge. Monitor fluid level constantly.
    ⚠Close the bleeder screw BEFORE the assistant releases brake pedal pressure. Failure to follow this sequence will draw air back into the system.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Final bleeder screw torque and inspection
    After bleeding is complete and only clean, bubble-free fluid emerges, close the bleeder screw while the assistant maintains pedal pressure. Torque the bleeder screw to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) - do not overtighten, as bleeder screws are easily damaged. Remove the bleeder hose and reinstall the rubber dust cap over the bleeder screw. Inspect the brake line banjo bolt connection for any signs of fluid seepage - retighten to specification if needed (do not exceed 25 Nm).
    ⚠Bleeder screws are brass and easily stripped or broken. Use proper torque specification and never force a seized bleeder. If a bleeder breaks, the entire caliper must be replaced.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

    Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Clean the wheel hub face and verify the brake rotor is properly seated. Reinstall the wheel and tire, threading all lug nuts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to finger-tight while vehicle is still on jack stands. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (but vehicle weight is still on stands). Torque lug nuts to manufacturer specification (verify exact value in the factory service manual for the 2008 Viper) in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.

Reassembly

1. After lowering vehicle, perform a final lug nut torque check in a star pattern to ensure proper seating.
2. Fill master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid from a sealed container.
3. If both rear calipers were replaced, bleed the opposite rear caliper following the same procedure, then bleed front calipers if necessary following manufacturer's recommended bleeding sequence (typically farthest from master cylinder to closest).
4. Clean any brake fluid residue from wheels, calipers, and painted surfaces immediately using water and clean rags.
5. Dispose of old brake fluid and contaminated materials according to local environmental regulations - brake fluid is hazardous waste.

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal 15-20 times to restore hydraulic pressure and seat caliper piston. Pedal should become firm and hold pressure without slowly sinking to the floor.
• Visually inspect all brake line connections for fluid leaks, particularly at the banjo bolt. Any seepage indicates improper installation or damaged components.
• Start engine (if equipped with brake booster) and verify pedal feel remains firm with no excessive travel. Pedal should not sink when held under constant pressure for 30 seconds.
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area with no traffic. Brakes should engage smoothly without pulling to one side. If pulling occurs, verify proper installation and repeat bleeding procedure.
• Check master cylinder fluid level after test drive - significant drop indicates a leak in the system. Inspect all connections immediately.
• CRITICAL: Do not return vehicle to normal service until brake pedal feel is firm and consistent, and no leaks are present. If pedal remains soft after proper bleeding, air may remain in the ABS system and professional service with a scan tool may be required.
• After 50-100 miles of driving, re-inspect all brake line connections for seepage and verify caliper slide pin bolt torque. Recheck master cylinder fluid level.

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