Brake Hose - Front

Remove and replace the front brake hose, which connects the rigid brake line to the caliper, allowing for suspension movement while maintaining hydraulic pressure.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake hose assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or DOT-approved equivalent
• Brake hose banjo bolt washers (copper crush washers) × 2 — Two per hose, always replace
• Brake hose mounting bracket bolt or clip (if damaged) × 1 — Inspect during removal

Fluids

• DOT 4 brake fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and apply parking brake firmly
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is on the ground
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated front jacking point
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at front frame rails or manufacturer-designated support points
6. Remove front wheel completely on the side being serviced
7. Locate the brake fluid reservoir under the hood and verify fluid level is at MAX line before beginning
8. Identify the brake hose routing: it runs from the rigid brake line mounted to the frame/suspension down to the brake caliper
9. Apply penetrating oil to the brake line-to-hose fitting and hose mounting bracket hardware if corrosion is visible; allow 10-15 minutes to penetrate

Procedure

1. 1

   Prepare for fluid loss
   Place a brake fluid catch pan or absorbent pads directly beneath the brake hose connection points at both the caliper and the frame-mounted hard line. Have shop rags ready to immediately wipe any spilled fluid from suspension components and painted surfaces. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap slightly to relieve system vacuum and allow fluid to drain more freely.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Locate the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose to the brake caliper inlet. This is typically on the rear or top of the caliper body. Using the correct-size wrench for the banjo bolt (verify size, commonly larger than 12mm), hold the brake hose end fitting stationary while loosening the banjo bolt with another wrench. Remove the banjo bolt completely and note the copper crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting (2 washers total). Allow brake fluid to drain into the catch pan. Immediately plug the caliper inlet with a clean rubber cap or wrap with plastic and tape to minimize fluid loss and contamination.
3. 3

   Disconnect brake hose from hard line
   Locate where the flexible brake hose connects to the rigid brake line, typically at a chassis/frame-mounted bracket near the shock tower or inner fender area. Using a flare nut wrench (to prevent rounding the fitting), loosen and remove the threaded fitting that connects the brake hose to the hard line. This is a standard inverted flare or double-flare fitting. If the fitting is seized, apply additional penetrating oil and use a line wrench with steady, controlled pressure. Once loose, unthread completely by hand and allow remaining fluid to drain into the catch pan. Plug the exposed hard line with a rubber cap or clean plastic wrap to prevent contamination.
4. 4

   Remove brake hose from mounting bracket
   The brake hose is secured to a mounting bracket (typically on the frame or suspension component) by either a horseshoe-shaped retaining clip or a bolt. Inspect the bracket: if a spring clip is used, use pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the clip out of the bracket. If a bolt secures the hose, remove the bolt (typically 8mm or 10mm hex head). Once released, pull the brake hose free from the mounting bracket. Inspect the bracket for damage or excessive corrosion; replace if compromised.
5. 5

   Inspect and prepare new brake hose
   Compare the new brake hose to the old hose to verify correct length, fitting types, and mounting bracket configuration. Ensure the new hose includes the correct bracket grommet or ferrule. Unwrap the new hose and verify that two NEW copper crush washers are provided (one for each side of the banjo fitting). If washers are not included, obtain them separately before proceeding. Check that all protective caps are removed from fittings and that threads are clean and undamaged.
6. 6

   Install new brake hose to mounting bracket
   Insert the new brake hose into the mounting bracket on the frame or suspension component, ensuring the hose routing matches the original orientation. The hose should not be twisted and should follow a natural arc that allows for full suspension travel without binding or stretching. Install the retaining clip or bolt to secure the hose to the bracket. If a bolt is used, tighten snugly but do not overtighten (typically 6-10 ft-lbs, finger-tight plus 1/4 turn is sufficient if torque spec is unknown).
7. 7

   Connect brake hose to hard line
   Remove the protective cap from the hard line. Thread the brake hose fitting onto the hard line by hand, ensuring the threads engage smoothly without cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use a flare nut wrench to tighten the fitting securely. Typical torque is 10-15 ft-lbs; the fitting should be snug but not over-torqued, which can damage the flare. Verify the hose is not twisted and that it follows a natural path to the caliper.
8. 8

   Connect brake hose to caliper
   Remove the protective cap from the caliper inlet. Position a NEW copper crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting: one washer goes between the banjo fitting and the caliper body, and one washer goes between the bolt head and the banjo fitting. Insert the banjo bolt through the assembly and thread it into the caliper inlet by hand. Using an open-end wrench, tighten the banjo bolt. Tighten the banjo bolt to the factory-specified torque for this vehicle (verify exact spec in the FSM before final torque); do not overtighten, which can strip the caliper threads. Ensure the brake hose is oriented properly and not twisted at the banjo fitting.
9. 9

   Bleed the brake system
   Fill the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh brake fluid of the grade specified on the reservoir cap / owner's manual (verify DOT 3 or DOT 4 for this vehicle). Attach a clear bleeding tube to the brake caliper bleeder screw (located on the caliper body, typically on the top or rear) and submerge the other end in a catch bottle partially filled with brake fluid. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal to the floor and hold. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 turn to allow fluid and air to escape. Close the bleeder screw before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until fluid flows clear and free of air bubbles. Check and refill the reservoir frequently to prevent introducing air. Close the bleeder screw to the factory-specified torque (verify exact spec in the FSM before final torque).
10. 10

    Verify brake hose installation and check for leaks
    With the brake system bled, visually inspect all connections at the caliper banjo bolt, the hard line fitting, and the mounting bracket. Wipe all fittings dry with a clean shop rag. Have an assistant apply firm, steady pressure to the brake pedal (do not pump; apply and hold for 30 seconds). While pressure is applied, inspect all fittings for signs of brake fluid leakage. Any seepage indicates improper installation or damaged washers. If leakage is observed, release pedal pressure, correct the issue, and re-bleed. Verify the brake hose does not contact any suspension components, tire, or wheel throughout the full range of steering and suspension travel by turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock and visually inspecting clearance.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and thread lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading
2. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (weight not fully on tire) to prevent wheel rotation during final lug nut torquing
3. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern (typically 110-130 ft-lbs for 2008 Viper, verify with owner's manual or door jamb sticker)
4. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands and floor jack
5. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with DOT 4 brake fluid and securely reinstall reservoir cap
6. Pump the brake pedal several times to restore pedal feel and verify firm pedal pressure before attempting to drive

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal 10-15 times and verify pedal becomes firm and does not sink to the floor
• Start engine (if equipped with power brakes) and verify pedal drops slightly but remains firm
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area: at 5-10 mph, apply brakes firmly and verify straight-line stopping with no pulling to one side
• Re-inspect all brake hose connections for leaks after test drive
• Check brake fluid level in reservoir after test drive; top off if needed
• Verify no brake warning lights are illuminated on the instrument cluster
• Road test at progressively higher speeds (up to normal driving speeds) in a safe area, verifying consistent brake response and pedal feel before returning to normal service

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