Brake Lines - Complete Set

Complete replacement of all brake lines from master cylinder to all four calipers, including hard lines and flexible hoses on a 2008 Dodge Viper with 8.4L V10.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Complete brake line kit (all hard lines) × 1 — Use OEM or DOT-approved pre-bent kit for 2008 Viper
• Front brake hose assemblies (flexible) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Rear brake hose assemblies (flexible) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Brake line fittings and clips × 1 — As needed for installation
• Copper crush washers for banjo fittings × 8 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 4 brake fluid — 2 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level concrete surface. Apply parking brake and place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
2. Verify you have correct brake line kit for 2008 Viper. Pre-bent lines must match routing exactly to avoid contact with suspension, exhaust, or chassis components.
3. Photograph existing brake line routing from multiple angles for reference during installation. Pay special attention to clip locations and clearances to moving components.
4. Remove master cylinder reservoir cap and use turkey baster or fluid pump to remove as much brake fluid as possible from reservoir. Dispose of fluid properly.
5. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at all four corners. Remove all four wheels.
6. Spray all brake line fittings with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15-30 minutes before attempting removal.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect lines at master cylinder
   Working at the master cylinder (located at firewall on driver side), use flare nut wrenches to disconnect the two primary brake lines at the master cylinder outlet ports. Use 9/16" or appropriate size flare nut wrench. Immediately cap or plug the master cylinder ports to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Label each line for proper routing identification (typically one line serves front circuit, one serves rear circuit on Viper ABS system). Expect significant fluid spillage; have catch pan positioned underneath.
2. 2

   Trace and remove front brake line routing
   Follow the front brake circuit hard line from master cylinder along the frame rail toward the front of the vehicle. Remove mounting clips securing line to frame (typically push-type or bolt-on clips). At the front junction point near each wheel well, disconnect the hard line from the flexible brake hose using appropriate flare nut wrench. Cap all open ends immediately. Note exact clip locations and any brackets or retainers. Remove the hard line section by working it free from clips and guides.
3. 3

   Remove front flexible brake hoses
   At each front caliper, remove the banjo bolt securing the flexible brake hose to the caliper using a socket wrench. Discard the copper crush washers (new ones required on installation). At the frame/suspension mounting point, remove the retaining clip or bracket bolt securing the flexible hose to the chassis. Remove flexible hose assembly. Repeat for opposite side. Plug caliper ports immediately to prevent contamination.
4. 4

   Trace and remove rear brake line routing
   Follow the rear brake circuit hard line from master cylinder along the frame rail and underneath vehicle toward rear axle. Route carefully around the driveshaft, rear differential, and driveline components. Remove all mounting clips and brackets. At the rear suspension junction points, disconnect hard lines from flexible hoses using flare nut wrenches. Work carefully around exhaust components and heat shields. Cap all open ends. Remove hard line sections.
5. 5

   Remove rear flexible brake hoses
   At each rear caliper, remove the banjo bolt securing flexible brake hose to caliper. Discard copper crush washers. Remove the bracket or clip securing flexible hose to suspension or chassis mounting point. Remove flexible hose assembly. Repeat for opposite side. Plug all caliper ports.
6. 6

   Inspect and clean all connection points
   With all old lines removed, inspect master cylinder outlet ports, caliper inlet ports, and all frame/chassis mounting points for corrosion, damage, or stripped threads. Clean all threaded ports with wire brush. Check that ABS modulator connections (if lines pass through ABS unit) are clean and undamaged. Replace any damaged components before proceeding. Verify routing path is clear of debris and sharp edges that could damage new lines.
7. 7

   Install new front hard lines
   Beginning at master cylinder, install new pre-bent hard line for front circuit. Route line along frame rail following exact path of original line. Install mounting clips at all factory locations, ensuring line has proper clearance from suspension travel, steering components, and exhaust. At front junction points, loosely thread flare nut fittings into flexible hose mounting points (do not fully tighten yet). Verify line has no kinks, sharp bends, or contact points with moving components through full suspension travel.
8. 8

   Install front flexible brake hoses
   Install new front flexible brake hoses. First, secure the chassis/frame mounting bracket with retaining clip or bolt. Ensure hose is not twisted and has proper orientation markings visible. At caliper end, install new copper crush washers on each side of the banjo fitting, then install banjo bolt through hose fitting and thread into caliper. Hand-tighten only at this stage. Verify hose has adequate slack for full steering and suspension travel without stretching or kinking. Repeat for opposite side.
9. 9

   Install rear hard lines
   Install new pre-bent hard line for rear circuit from master cylinder along frame rail toward rear. Route carefully around the driveshaft, rear differential, and exhaust components, maintaining factory clearances. Install all mounting clips and brackets at factory locations. At rear junction points near differential, loosely connect to flexible hose mounting points. Verify clearance through full suspension travel and adequate clearance from exhaust heat (minimum 2 inches from hot components).
10. 10

    Install rear flexible brake hoses
    Install new rear flexible brake hoses. Secure chassis/suspension mounting bracket first. Route hose to caliper ensuring no twist and proper orientation. Install new copper crush washers on both sides of banjo fitting, then install banjo bolt through fitting into caliper. Hand-tighten. Verify adequate slack for full suspension travel and no interference with axle, suspension arms, or exhaust. Repeat for opposite side.
11. 11

    Final tighten all connections
    Working systematically from master cylinder to each corner: Torque master cylinder outlet fittings to proper specification using flare nut wrench. Torque all hard line flare nut fittings at junctions and flexible hose connection points. Torque all banjo bolts at calipers to specification. Double-check every connection is properly seated and torqued. Verify no lines are twisted, kinked, or contacting moving/hot components.
12. 12

    Bleed brake system
    Fill master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid meeting the vehicle's factory specification (verify DOT 3 or DOT 4 per reservoir cap/owner's manual) from a sealed container. Bleed brake system in the factory-specified sequence for the ABS-equipped 2008 Viper (confirm exact corner order in the service manual before bleeding). Use pressure bleeder or two-person manual bleeding method. Bleed each caliper until fluid runs clear with no air bubbles. Maintain master cylinder reservoir level above MIN line throughout process. For ABS-equipped system, cycling the ABS pump may require scan tool procedure - if pedal remains soft after conventional bleeding, ABS module bleeding is required.
13. 13

    Pressure test and leak inspection
    With brake system fully bled, have assistant apply firm brake pedal pressure and hold (or use pressure bleeder set to 20 psi). Inspect every connection point, fitting, and line section for leaks. Check master cylinder ports, all flare nut fittings, all banjo bolts at calipers, and entire length of all lines. Wipe all fittings dry first, then reapply pressure and look for fresh fluid weeping. Any leak must be corrected before proceeding - retorque fitting or replace damaged component. Verify pedal feels firm and does not slowly sink.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall all four wheels and torque lug nuts to specification.
2. Lower vehicle to ground.
3. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 fluid.
4. Clean any brake fluid spills on chassis, suspension, or painted surfaces immediately with water.

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal several times. Pedal should build firm pressure and not sink when held under constant pressure for 30 seconds.
• Start engine (if power-assisted brakes). Pedal should drop slightly as booster engages, then remain firm.
• Perform static leak check: apply firm brake pedal pressure and reinspect all connections with flashlight. No leaks permitted.
• Perform low-speed brake test in safe area away from traffic: at 5-10 mph, apply brakes firmly. Vehicle should stop straight with no pulling. Pedal must remain firm.
• Perform several moderate stops from 20-30 mph in safe area. Verify consistent pedal feel, straight stops, and no leaks after cool-down.
• After test drive, reinspect all connections for leaks and verify brake fluid reservoir level is between MIN and MAX.
• Schedule follow-up inspection after 50-100 miles to recheck all fittings for leaks and verify proper system function.

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