brakes
Brake Rotor - Rear Single
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
36 min
Tools
11
Steps
13
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of a single rear brake rotor on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including caliper and bracket removal.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL: Brake system failure can cause loss of vehicle control resulting in serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Do not allow brake caliper to hang by the brake hose - this can damage the hose and cause brake failure.
⚠Brake rotors may have sharp edges. Wear gloves when handling.
ℹ️New rotors often come with a protective coating that must be cleaned off before installation.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Torque wrench (0-200 ft-lb range)Essential
1/2" drive ratchet and socket setEssential
18mm socket (caliper bracket bolts)Essential
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Parts
- Rear brake rotor × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent performance rotor
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake.
- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while the wheel is still on the ground.
- Lift the rear of the vehicle using a floor jack at an appropriate jacking point.
- Secure the vehicle on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Place stands under the rear axle or frame rails.
- Remove the rear wheel completely and set aside.
Procedure
- 1Remove caliper slide pin boltsLocate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the inboard side of the caliper. Verify the exact caliper mounting bolt size against service documentation before beginning. Use a ratchet and socket to remove both slide pin bolts completely. The caliper should now be free to pivot away from the rotor.
- 2Support and remove caliperCarefully lift the caliper away from the rotor and bracket. Do NOT let it hang by the brake hose. Use a caliper hanger or mechanic's wire to secure the caliper to the suspension component above, ensuring no tension on the brake hose. The brake pads may come out with the caliper or remain in the bracket.
- 3Remove brake pads if necessaryIf the brake pads remained in the caliper bracket after caliper removal, remove them now and set aside. Note the position and orientation of any anti-rattle clips or shims for reinstallation.
- 4Remove caliper bracket boltsLocate the two caliper mounting bolts that secure the fixed caliper to the rear knuckle/hub carrier. These are torqued very tight; verify exact size against service documentation. Use a breaker bar or impact gun if necessary to remove both bolts completely, then remove the caliper.
- 5Remove brake rotorPull the brake rotor straight off the hub. The rotor may be stuck due to corrosion or a retaining clip. If stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap around the outer edge of the rotor from behind to break it free. Some rotors have threaded holes that accept bolts for pushing the rotor off - check for these if the rotor is severely stuck. Remove any rotor retention clip if present and discard if not reusing the rotor.
- 6Clean hub surfaceUse a wire brush to clean the hub mounting surface where the rotor sits. Remove all rust, scale, and debris. This ensures proper rotor seating and prevents runout. Clean the wheel stud threads with the wire brush as well.
- 7Prepare new rotorRemove the new rotor from packaging. If the rotor has a protective oil coating, spray it thoroughly with brake cleaner and wipe clean with a lint-free cloth. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the hub surface (not the rotor friction surface). Do NOT get anti-seize on the rotor braking surfaces.
- 8Install new rotorSlide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the center hole with the hub pilot. The rotor should sit flush against the hub face. If the vehicle originally had rotor retention clips and you are reusing them, install the clip now over one of the wheel studs.
- 9Reinstall caliper bracketPosition the caliper bracket over the rotor and align the mounting bolt holes with the threaded holes in the axle hub. Install both caliper bracket bolts and hand-tighten. Torque the bracket bolts to specification in a cross pattern. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to the factory specification from service documentation before driving; do not rely on a generic estimate for this safety-critical, high-torque fastener.
- 10Reinstall brake padsInstall the brake pads back into the fixed caliper body in their original orientation, securing them with the retaining pins and anti-rattle spring. Ensure any anti-rattle clips or shims are properly positioned. The pads should slide freely in the bracket but not be loose.
- 11Reinstall caliperRemove the caliper from its support wire or hanger. Position the caliper over the brake pads and align the slide pin holes. Position the fixed caliper over the rotor and align the mounting bolt holes. Install both caliper mounting bolts and hand-tighten, then torque them to the factory specification from service documentation.
- 12Reinstall wheelPlace the wheel back onto the hub and install all lug nuts hand-tight. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands until the tire just touches the ground but the suspension is not yet loaded. Torque the lug nuts to the factory specification (verify with service documentation) in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove the jack.
- 13Bed in new rotorBefore driving normally, pump the brake pedal several times to ensure proper pad-to-rotor contact and restore brake pedal firmness. Perform 5-10 moderate stops from 40-50 mph to properly bed in the new rotor and transfer pad material. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles to allow proper break-in.
Reassembly
- Installation is the reverse of removal, following steps 7-13 above.
- Always replace brake components in axle sets (both rear rotors) for balanced braking performance.
- Torque all fasteners to specification - brake component security is critical for safe operation.
Verification
- Pump brake pedal several times - pedal should become firm and hold pressure.
- Check that the wheel rotates freely without dragging or rubbing sounds.
- Test drive in a safe area at low speed - brakes should engage smoothly without pulsation or noise.
- After initial test drive, re-check lug nut torque.
- Verify no brake fluid leaks at the caliper or brake hose connections.
- After bedding procedure, brakes should provide confident, smooth stopping power.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0253Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control B Low (Cam/Rotor/Injector)P0254Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control B High (Cam/Rotor/Injector)P0260Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control D Intermittent (Cam/Rotor/Injector)P0504Brake Switch A/B CorrelationP0555Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0556Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0571Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit MalfunctionP0572Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit LowP0588Cruise Control/Brake Switch B Circuit HighP0703Torque Converter/Brake Switch B CircuitP0719Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit LowP0723Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Intermittent
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