transmission
Clutch Kit
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
7.8 h
Tools
13
Steps
23
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
This procedure covers removal and replacement of the clutch kit on a 2008 Dodge Viper with 8.4L V10 engine, requiring transmission removal to access the clutch assembly.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠️The transmission assembly weighs approximately 130 pounds. Use a transmission jack and have an assistant available to safely lower and remove the unit.
⚠Exhaust components will be extremely hot if engine has been running. Allow several hours for complete cooling before beginning work.
⚠Clutch disc contains friction material that may produce harmful dust. Avoid breathing dust and do not use compressed air to clean components.
ℹ️Inspect flywheel for heat checking, cracks, or scoring during this procedure. Resurface or replace if worn beyond specification.
Tools required
Transmission jackEssential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Torx driver setEssential
Torque wrenchEssential
Clutch alignment toolEssential
Flywheel holding toolEssential
Drain pan (5+ quart capacity)Essential
Breaker barEssential
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Parts
- Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing) × 1 — Use OEM specification or performance equivalent
- Pilot bearing × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Transmission input shaft seal (if worn) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Bellhousing gasket/sealant × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust gaskets × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Pennzoil Synchromesh 75W-90 — 4.2 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Disconnect negative battery cable
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at all four corners, providing adequate clearance for transmission removal
- Remove both rear wheels if additional working room is needed
- Allow exhaust system to cool completely if vehicle was recently operated
Procedure
- 1Drain transmission fluidPlace drain pan beneath transmission. Remove the transmission drain plug and allow fluid to drain completely. Reinstall drain plug hand-tight for now to prevent debris entry during disassembly.
- 2Remove exhaust componentsDisconnect exhaust at the header flanges. Remove the exhaust hangers and lower the complete exhaust system from the vehicle to provide clearance for transmission removal. On the Viper, the side-exit exhaust system must be completely removed to access the bellhousing and transmission mounting points.
- 3Disconnect driveshaftMark the driveshaft and differential flange for correct reinstallation alignment. Remove the 4 bolts securing the driveshaft to the rear differential companion flange. Support the driveshaft and carefully slide it rearward to separate it from the transmission output shaft. Cap or tape the transmission extension housing to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
- 4Disconnect shift linkage and electrical connectionsDisconnect the shift linkage from the transmission shift lever. On the Viper T56 transmission, this includes the shift rod connection at the transmission housing. Disconnect the reverse light switch connector and the vehicle speed sensor connector from the transmission housing. Label connections if necessary for reinstallation reference.
- 5Disconnect hydraulic clutch lineLocate the hydraulic clutch line connection at the slave cylinder mounted on the bellhousing. Remove the hydraulic line connection, taking care not to damage the fitting. Allow residual brake fluid to drain and cap the line to prevent fluid loss. The Viper uses an externally mounted slave cylinder that actuates the clutch release fork.
- 6Support transmissionPosition a transmission jack under the transmission pan, ensuring proper weight distribution. Secure the transmission to the jack with a safety strap or chain. Adjust jack height to slightly relieve weight from the transmission mounts but do not begin removal yet.
- 7Remove transmission crossmemberRemove the 4 bolts securing the transmission crossmember to the frame rails. With transmission weight supported by the jack, remove the crossmember from the vehicle. This provides clearance for transmission removal.
- 8Remove bellhousing-to-engine boltsRemove all bellhousing bolts securing the transmission to the engine block. On the Viper V10, there are 6 bellhousing bolts around the perimeter. Access may be difficult for upper bolts; use extensions and universal joints as needed. Ensure all bolts are removed before attempting to separate the transmission.
- 9Remove transmission assemblyWith all fasteners removed and transmission supported on the jack, carefully slide the transmission rearward to separate the input shaft from the clutch disc and pilot bearing. Keep the transmission aligned horizontally to avoid binding the input shaft. Once clear of the clutch assembly, lower the transmission jack and roll the assembly out from under the vehicle. Have an assistant guide the transmission to prevent damage to surrounding components.⚠️Transmission weighs approximately 130 pounds. Ensure transmission jack is secure and have assistant available.
- 10Remove pressure plate and clutch discInstall a flywheel holding tool to prevent crankshaft rotation. Mark the pressure plate position relative to the flywheel for reinstallation reference (if reusing). Gradually loosen the 6 pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern, loosening each bolt approximately 1-2 turns at a time to evenly relieve spring pressure. Once all bolts are loose, remove them completely. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel. Note the orientation of the clutch disc (marked side typically faces pressure plate).
- 11Remove pilot bearingUsing a pilot bearing puller or slide hammer with appropriate adapter, remove the pilot bearing from the crankshaft. Inspect the bearing for wear, roughness, or damage. The pilot bearing supports the transmission input shaft and must be replaced during clutch service.
- 12Inspect flywheelWith the clutch removed, inspect the flywheel friction surface for heat checking, cracks, hot spots, scoring, or glazing. Check flywheel runout using a dial indicator if available; runout should not exceed 0.005 inches. If the flywheel shows significant wear or damage, it must be resurfaced or replaced. Clean the flywheel surface with a wire brush and brake cleaner, removing any oil or debris.
- 13Install new pilot bearingLightly lubricate the outer diameter of the new pilot bearing with clean engine oil. Using a pilot bearing installation tool or appropriately sized socket, carefully drive the new pilot bearing into the crankshaft bore until it is fully seated and flush with the crankshaft. Ensure the bearing is installed straight to avoid damage.
- 14Install clutch disc and pressure plateClean the flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces with brake cleaner. Insert the clutch alignment tool through the new clutch disc and into the pilot bearing to hold the disc centered. Position the clutch disc against the flywheel with the correct orientation (the side marked 'flywheel side' or with the longer hub section typically faces the transmission). Place the new pressure plate over the clutch disc, aligning any reference marks if reusing the original pressure plate, or positioning the pressure plate with dowel pins if equipped. Install all 6 pressure plate bolts finger-tight. Gradually tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to gradually compress the pressure plate springs evenly. Torque the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern in incremental steps to the manufacturer's specified torque value (verify against factory service data before final tightening). Verify the clutch alignment tool rotates freely, confirming proper alignment. Remove the alignment tool only after transmission installation begins.ℹ️Clutch disc must be installed with correct orientation. Verify the marked side or longer hub section faces the appropriate direction per manufacturer instructions included with the clutch kit.
- 15Inspect and prepare transmissionBefore installation, inspect the transmission input shaft splines for wear or damage. Inspect the release fork and external slave cylinder for wear, leaks, or damage. Lightly lubricate the input shaft splines with a small amount of high-temperature grease (do not over-lubricate as excess grease can contaminate the clutch disc). Verify the throwout bearing (release bearing) is properly installed in the bellhousing and moves freely.
- 16Install transmission assemblyWith the clutch alignment tool still in place, position the transmission on the transmission jack and raise it into position. Carefully align the transmission input shaft with the clutch disc splines and pilot bearing. Slide the transmission forward, ensuring the input shaft enters the pilot bearing and the bellhousing mates flush with the engine block. The transmission should slide into place with moderate effort; do not force it. If resistance is encountered, verify alignment and rotate the output shaft slightly to align splines. Once the bellhousing is flush with the engine block, install all 6 bellhousing bolts and tighten in a crisscross pattern to draw the transmission evenly to the engine. The clutch alignment tool will be pushed out as the transmission is installed; remove it once it is accessible.⚠Do not use bellhousing bolts to draw a misaligned transmission into place. This can damage the clutch disc, input shaft, or pilot bearing. Transmission should slide into position with alignment correct.
- 17Install transmission crossmemberRaise the transmission jack to align the transmission mount with the crossmember location. Position the crossmember and install the 4 crossmember-to-frame bolts. Tighten bolts firmly. Once crossmember is secured, the transmission jack can be lowered and removed.
- 18Reconnect hydraulic clutch lineReconnect the hydraulic clutch line to the external slave cylinder at the bellhousing. Ensure the connection is secure and properly threaded. The hydraulic system may require bleeding after reconnection if air entered the system during disassembly.
- 19Reconnect shift linkage and electrical connectionsReconnect the shift linkage to the transmission shift lever, ensuring proper engagement and adjustment. Reconnect the reverse light switch and vehicle speed sensor electrical connectors. Verify all connections are secure.
- 20Install driveshaftRemove the cap from the transmission extension housing. Slide the driveshaft forward, engaging the output shaft splines. Align the reference marks made during removal between the driveshaft and differential companion flange. Install the 4 driveshaft-to-differential bolts and tighten securely.
- 21Install exhaust systemRaise the exhaust system into position and install new gaskets at the header flanges. Install exhaust flange bolts and tighten securely. Secure exhaust hangers. Ensure exhaust system has proper clearance from transmission, driveshaft, and chassis components throughout its length.
- 22Refill transmission fluidRemove the transmission drain plug and fill plug. Using a fluid pump or funnel with extension, add the specified quantity of the OEM-recommended manual transmission fluid through the fill hole (verify capacity and fluid specification against factory service data). Fluid should reach the bottom of the fill hole when properly filled. Install the fill plug and tighten securely. Install the drain plug and tighten securely.
- 23Bleed clutch hydraulic systemIf air entered the hydraulic clutch system during disconnection, bleeding will be required. Locate the bleeder valve on the hydraulic line or at the bellhousing connection point. With an assistant depressing the clutch pedal, open the bleeder valve to release air and old fluid into a drain pan. Close the valve before the pedal is released. Repeat this process until fluid flows without air bubbles. Top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid as needed during bleeding. Verify firm clutch pedal feel after bleeding is complete.
Reassembly
- Reinstall rear wheels if removed and torque lug nuts to specification
- Lower vehicle from jack stands
- Reconnect negative battery cable
- Start engine and verify no leaks from transmission, hydraulic clutch system, or exhaust connections
- Test clutch engagement and disengagement in all gears before driving
Verification
- Start engine and verify clutch pedal operates smoothly with normal resistance
- With engine running and transmission in neutral, depress clutch pedal and shift through all gears to verify smooth engagement without grinding
- Test drive vehicle to verify clutch engages smoothly without slipping, chattering, or abnormal noise
- Verify no fluid leaks from transmission, hydraulic clutch line, or exhaust system
- Check that shift linkage operates correctly with positive engagement in all gear positions
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0645A/C Clutch Relay Control CircuitP0646A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit LowP0704Clutch Switch Input Circuit MalfunctionP0740Torque Converter Clutch Circuit MalfunctionP0741Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance/Stuck OffP0805Clutch Position Sensor CircuitP0806Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0810Clutch Position Control ErrorP0811Excessive Clutch SlippageP0830Clutch Pedal Switch A CircuitP0831Clutch Pedal Switch "A" CircuitP0893Multiple Clutch A Engagement
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