Clutch Slave Cylinder

Replace the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder on a 2008 Dodge Viper by accessing the transmission bellhousing, removing the old cylinder, and installing a new unit with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Clutch slave cylinder × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Hydraulic line crush washer (if banjo fitting) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• brake — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake.
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
3. Open hood and locate brake fluid reservoir. Note fluid level for reference.
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-approved lift points.
5. Remove belly pan or undertray if equipped to access transmission bellhousing area.
6. Allow exhaust system to cool completely if vehicle was recently driven.

Procedure

1. 1

   Access clutch slave cylinder location
   The 2008 Viper uses a concentric slave cylinder (CSC) that combines the slave cylinder and release bearing into one unit mounted concentric to the transmission input shaft, located INSIDE the bellhousing. Accessing it requires removal of the transmission. Verify the specific configuration against factory service information before proceeding. The cylinder is a cylindrical component with a hydraulic line connection at the rear and a pushrod extending into the bellhousing. Identify the hydraulic line routing and connection point. Clean the area around the slave cylinder and hydraulic line connection to prevent contamination during disassembly.
2. 2

   Prepare hydraulic system
   From the engine bay, use a turkey baster or fluid extractor to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir down to the MIN line. This reduces fluid loss and spillage during line disconnection. Place a catch pan under the slave cylinder area to capture residual fluid.
3. 3

   Disconnect hydraulic line
   Disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder. If equipped with a banjo bolt fitting, use a wrench to loosen the banjo bolt while holding the cylinder body steady with another wrench. If equipped with a quick-disconnect or threaded fitting, depress the release tab or unthread the fitting as applicable. Immediately cap or plug the hydraulic line to prevent excessive fluid loss and contamination. Allow residual fluid to drain into the catch pan.
4. 4

   Remove slave cylinder mounting fasteners
   Locate the slave cylinder mounting fasteners securing it to the bellhousing. Remove the mounting fasteners using the appropriate socket or wrench. The concentric slave cylinder is typically retained by bolts to the front face of the transmission around the input shaft; fastener type and count must be verified against factory service information.
5. 5

   Extract slave cylinder
   After the transmission is removed, unbolt the concentric slave cylinder (which incorporates the release bearing) from the front of the transmission. Note there is no external pushrod, fork, or separate release bearing on this design. Inspect the removed unit for fluid leakage and damaged seals. Maneuver the cylinder carefully through the confined space between the transmission, exhaust, and frame components. Inspect the removed cylinder for fluid leakage, damaged seals, or scored pushrod surface.
6. 6

   Inspect bellhousing opening
   Inspect the bellhousing opening where the slave cylinder mounts. Check for debris, metal shavings, or contamination that could affect the new cylinder seal. Wipe clean with a lint-free cloth if necessary. Verify that the clutch release mechanism inside the bellhousing moves freely and is not damaged.
7. 7

   Prepare new slave cylinder
   Remove the new slave cylinder from its packaging. Verify that the pushrod moves smoothly and returns under spring pressure. Check that any protective caps or shipping clips are removed. If the cylinder was supplied with a pre-filled bleeding cap or shipping restraint, follow manufacturer instructions for preparation. Apply a light coat of clean DOT 4 brake fluid to the pushrod and mounting seal surface.
8. 8

   Install new slave cylinder
   Carefully guide the new slave cylinder into position, aligning the pushrod with the clutch release mechanism inside the bellhousing. Push the cylinder fully into the bellhousing until the mounting flange seats flush against the housing. Thread the mounting fasteners by hand to ensure proper alignment, then tighten securely. Ensure the cylinder body is properly oriented with the hydraulic port accessible for line connection.
9. 9

   Reconnect hydraulic line
   Remove the cap or plug from the hydraulic line. If equipped with banjo fitting, install new crush washers on both sides of the banjo bolt, position the line, and thread the banjo bolt by hand into the slave cylinder. Tighten the banjo bolt or threaded fitting securely, being careful not to cross-thread. If quick-disconnect type, push the fitting into the cylinder port until it clicks and locks into place.
10. 10

    Refill brake fluid reservoir
    In the engine bay, refill the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Use only fluid from a sealed container to prevent moisture contamination. Keep the reservoir topped off throughout the bleeding process.
11. 11

    Bleed clutch hydraulic system
    Locate the clutch hydraulic bleeder valve, which on this concentric slave cylinder design is typically a remote bleeder in the hydraulic line rather than on the slave cylinder itself. Verify bleeder location against factory service information. Attach clear tubing to the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in a container partially filled with clean DOT 4 brake fluid. Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal slowly and hold it down, or use a pedal depressor. Open the bleeder valve approximately one-half to three-quarters turn. Fluid and air bubbles will flow through the tubing. Close the bleeder valve before the pedal reaches the floor. Release the pedal and allow it to return fully. Check and refill the reservoir. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the discharge tubing and the fluid runs clear. Typically requires 10-15 repetitions. Tighten the bleeder valve securely when complete.
12. 12

    Verify pedal operation
    With the engine off, pump the clutch pedal several times. The pedal should feel firm with consistent resistance and return fully each time. If the pedal feels spongy or sinks to the floor, air remains in the system and further bleeding is required. Check the reservoir level and top off as necessary.
13. 13

    Check for leaks
    Inspect all hydraulic connections for signs of fluid leakage. Wipe the slave cylinder, hydraulic line connections, and surrounding area dry, then have an assistant depress the clutch pedal several times while you observe for seepage. Check the floor under the vehicle for drips. Address any leaks immediately before proceeding.
14. 14

    Reinstall undertray and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the belly pan or undertray using the original fasteners. Ensure all fasteners are secured. Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack. Remove jack stands and wheel chocks.

Reassembly

1. Installation is the reverse of removal with attention to proper hydraulic line connection and thorough bleeding.
2. Always use new crush washers on banjo bolt hydraulic fittings.
3. Maintain brake fluid reservoir level throughout bleeding process.
4. Final fluid level in reservoir should be at MAX line with clutch pedal released.

Verification

• Start engine and verify clutch pedal feels firm with normal pedal height and travel.
• With engine running, depress clutch pedal fully and shift through all gears. Transmission should engage each gear smoothly without grinding.
• Test drive vehicle in a safe area. Clutch should engage and disengage smoothly without slipping or chattering.
• Verify no fluid leaks from slave cylinder or hydraulic connections after test drive.
• Recheck brake fluid reservoir level and top off if necessary.

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