Control Arm Bushing - Front Upper

Remove and replace the front upper control arm bushing on a 2008 Dodge Viper, requiring control arm removal and bushing press-out/press-in operations.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front upper control arm bushing × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated front jacking point
5. Support vehicle on jack stands placed at manufacturer-specified frame support points
6. Remove front wheel completely

Procedure

1. 1

   Support lower control arm
   Position floor jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint to support the suspension load. Raise jack until it just contacts the lower control arm but does not lift the vehicle. This will maintain suspension geometry during upper control arm removal.
2. 2

   Remove upper ball joint castle nut
   Locate the upper ball joint where it connects to the steering knuckle. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Use the correct size socket (verify against 2008 Viper service manual) to remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud. Do not fully separate the joint yet.
3. 3

   Separate upper ball joint from knuckle
   Insert ball joint separator tool between the upper control arm and steering knuckle at the ball joint taper. Tighten the separator tool to break the taper fit. Once separated, remove the separator tool and support the knuckle to prevent it from dropping.
4. 4

   Remove upper control arm mounting bolts
   Locate the two mounting bolts that secure the upper control arm to the frame. These bolts pass through the control arm bushings. Use the correct size socket (verify against 2008 Viper service manual) to remove both front and rear mounting bolts. Note the orientation and any alignment shims present for reassembly. Support the control arm as you remove the final bolt.
5. 5

   Remove upper control arm
   Lower the control arm away from the mounting points and maneuver it out of the wheel well. You may need to angle it slightly to clear the steering knuckle and frame. Inspect the ball joint and control arm for damage or excessive wear while removed.
6. 6

   Mark bushing orientation
   Before pressing out the old bushing, mark the orientation of the bushing relative to the control arm with a paint marker or scribe. Note any offset or directional features of the bushing design. Photograph the installation orientation if possible for reference.
7. 7

   Press out old bushing
   Secure the control arm in a hydraulic press or use a control arm bushing press kit. Position the appropriate size receiver cup under the bushing to catch it as it exits. Press the old bushing out of the control arm, applying steady pressure. If the bushing is seized, apply penetrating oil and allow it to soak, then retry.
8. 8

   Clean bushing bore
   Use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the bushing bore in the control arm, removing all rust, debris, and old bushing material. Inspect the bore for damage, cracks, or deformation. The bore must be clean and smooth for proper new bushing installation.
9. 9

   Press in new bushing
   Press the new bushing in dry, or use only a rubber-safe assembly lubricant (soapy water) on the outer sleeve if specified — do not use petroleum-based grease on rubber bushings. Align the new bushing in the control arm bore according to the orientation marks made earlier. Use the hydraulic press with the correct size driver to press the bushing in squarely and fully seated. Ensure the bushing is pressed in evenly and does not cock to one side during installation.
10. 10

    Install control arm to frame
    Position the control arm back into the mounting location on the frame. Reinstall any alignment shims in their original positions. Insert the front and rear mounting bolts through the bushings and thread them into the frame. Hand-tighten both bolts but do not torque yet. The suspension must be at ride height before final torquing.
11. 11

    Connect upper ball joint to knuckle
    Raise the steering knuckle to meet the upper ball joint stud. Clean the ball joint taper and knuckle taper before connection. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle. Thread the castle nut onto the stud and tighten to the factory-specified torque (verify against 2008 Viper service manual), then advance the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud, bending the ends to secure.
12. 12

    Lower suspension to ride height
    Carefully lower the floor jack under the lower control arm until the suspension settles to approximately normal ride height. The suspension must be at or near ride height when the control arm mounting bolts are torqued to prevent bushing bind.
13. 13

    Torque control arm mounting bolts
    With the suspension at ride height, torque both front and rear upper control arm mounting bolts. Torque both front and rear upper control arm mounting bolts to the factory-specified value (verify against 2008 Dodge Viper service manual before final tightening).
14. 14

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the front wheel, threading lug nuts by hand first. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern with a socket. Remove the jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the factory-specified value (verify against 2008 Dodge Viper service manual, commonly around 100 ft-lbs for this platform).

Reassembly

1. Ensure all cotter pins are properly installed and bent
2. Verify all mounting bolts are torqued with suspension at ride height
3. Remove floor jack from under lower control arm

Verification

• Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking or unusual noises from the front suspension
• Verify steering returns to center properly and there is no pulling to either side
• Schedule a professional front-end alignment as control arm removal affects camber and caster settings
• Re-check control arm mounting bolt torque after 50-100 miles of driving

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