drivetrain
CV Axle - Front
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.8 h
Tools
13
Steps
16
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Remove and replace the front CV axle assembly on a 2008 Dodge Viper, including hub nut removal, suspension separation, and axle extraction from the transaxle.
Warnings
⚠️The hub nut is torqued to extremely high specification. Loosen it only while the vehicle is on the ground with parking brake applied and transmission in gear to prevent wheel rotation.
⚠Transaxle fluid will drain from the output shaft when the axle is removed. Have a drain pan positioned and be prepared to replace fluid.
⚠CV axle removal requires significant force. Ensure the vehicle is securely supported before applying leverage to prevent jack stand failure.
ℹ️The 2008 Viper uses a front-mounted transaxle configuration with independent front suspension. The CV axles are different lengths for driver and passenger sides.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
32mm or 36mm socket (hub nut)Essential
Breaker bar (minimum 24 inch)Essential
Torque wrench (0-250 ft-lb range)Essential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Pry bar (24 inch minimum)Essential
Tie rod end separatorEssential
18mm socket and ratchetEssential
15mm socket and ratchetEssential
Drain panEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- CV axle assembly (front, specify driver or passenger side) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Hub nut (axle nut) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Transaxle output seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Pennzoil Synchromesh 75W-90 — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
- Place transmission in 1st gear (manual) to lock drivetrain.
- Loosen hub nut 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground using breaker bar. Do not remove completely.
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at factory lift points on frame rails.
- Remove wheel and tire assembly on the side being serviced.
- Place drain pan under transaxle output shaft area to catch fluid spillage.
Procedure
- 1Remove hub nutWith the vehicle raised and wheel removed, completely remove the hub nut using a 32mm or 36mm socket. The nut is a one-time-use self-locking design and must be replaced. Remove and discard the nut.
- 2Disconnect lower ball jointLocate the lower ball joint connection at the lower control arm. Remove the ball joint retaining nut (verify exact socket size against factory service manual). Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Insert the separator between the control arm and knuckle and strike with a hammer until the taper releases. Allow the lower control arm to drop away from the knuckle.
- 3Disconnect outer tie rod endLocate the outer tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Remove the castle nut using a 18mm socket. Use a tie rod end separator to break the taper connection. Insert the separator fork between the knuckle and tie rod end and strike until the stud releases from the knuckle bore.
- 4Separate hub from CV axle splineWith the suspension disconnected, pull the steering knuckle and hub assembly outward away from the vehicle. If the CV axle outer stub shaft does not release from the hub spline, use a dead blow hammer to strike the end of the stub shaft while pulling the hub outward. Continue until the spline disengages completely and the hub assembly can be moved clear of the CV axle.
- 5Remove CV axle from transaxlePosition a large pry bar between the inner CV joint housing and the transaxle case. The inner joint uses a circlip retention system. Apply firm, steady prying force to compress the circlip and extract the inner joint from the transaxle output shaft. You will feel the axle suddenly release when the circlip clears the groove. Pull the axle completely out of the transaxle housing. Fluid will drain from the output shaft opening.
- 6Remove CV axle assemblyManeuver the complete CV axle assembly out through the wheel well. The axle may need to be angled and rotated to clear suspension components and the subframe. Support the axle to prevent damage to the CV joint boots during removal.
- 7Inspect and replace transaxle sealInspect the transaxle output shaft seal visible in the output shaft bore. If the seal shows any wear, damage, or fluid leakage, pry it out using a seal puller or screwdriver. Clean the seal bore with a shop towel. Install the new output seal using a seal driver or large socket, driving it squarely into the bore until fully seated flush with the transaxle housing face.
- 8Prepare new CV axleUnpack the new CV axle assembly and inspect both CV joint boots for damage. Verify the circlip is properly installed in the groove on the inner CV joint stub shaft. If the circlip is missing or damaged, replace it before installation. Lightly lubricate the inner stub shaft splines and circlip with clean transaxle fluid.
- 9Install CV axle to transaxleCarefully align the inner CV joint stub shaft with the transaxle output shaft splines. Push the axle straight into the transaxle bore, ensuring the splines engage. Continue pushing firmly until you hear and feel a distinct click as the circlip seats into the output shaft retention groove. Pull outward on the inner joint housing to verify the circlip has locked and the axle cannot be removed without prying force.
- 10Install outer CV spline to hubGuide the outer CV stub shaft through the hub bore, aligning the splines. Push the hub assembly inward toward the vehicle while rotating slightly to engage the splines. Continue pushing until the stub shaft is fully seated through the hub bearing and the threads protrude for hub nut installation.
- 11Reconnect outer tie rod endLift the outer tie rod end into position and insert the stud through the steering knuckle bore. Install the castle nut and tighten using an 18mm socket until snug. Align the castle nut slots with the cotter pin hole in the stud and install a new cotter pin. Bend the cotter pin legs to secure.
- 12Reconnect lower ball jointLift the lower control arm and align the ball joint stud with the steering knuckle bore. Insert the stud through the knuckle and thread on the castle nut. Tighten the nut using an 18mm socket until snug. Align the castle nut slots with the cotter pin hole and install a new cotter pin. Bend the cotter pin legs to secure.
- 13Install new hub nutThread the new hub nut onto the CV axle stub shaft by hand as far as possible. Use a 32mm or 36mm socket to snug the nut, but do not torque at this time. The final torque must be applied with the vehicle on the ground and the hub prevented from rotating.
- 14Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleInstall the wheel and tire assembly. Thread the lug nuts by hand and snug in a star pattern using a socket. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Remove the jack stands and lower the jack completely so the vehicle weight is on the tires.
- 15Final torque hub nut and wheel lugsWith the vehicle on the ground, parking brake engaged, and transmission in gear, torque the hub nut to final specification using a torque wrench. Torque the wheel lug nuts to final specification in a star pattern. Stake or peen the hub nut collar into the CV stub shaft groove to prevent loosening.
- 16Refill transaxle fluidLocate the transaxle fill plug on the side of the transaxle case. Remove the fill plug and add Pennzoil Synchromesh 75W-90 fluid until it begins to run out of the fill hole. Install the fill plug and tighten. Check for leaks around the output shaft seal.
Reassembly
- Torque specifications for hub nut, ball joint nut, tie rod end nut, and wheel lugs were not provided in the database and must be obtained from factory service manual.
- The hub nut must be staked or peened after final torque to prevent loosening.
- Verify all suspension components are properly reconnected and cotter pins are installed in castle nuts.
Verification
- Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock several times to verify no binding or interference.
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no clicking, popping, or vibration from the CV axle during acceleration and turning.
- Inspect the transaxle output shaft seal area for any fluid leakage after test drive.
- Verify the hub nut remains tight and properly staked after test drive.