drivetrain
CV Boot - Outer
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.7 h
Tools
14
Steps
16
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the outer CV boot on a 2008 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10, requiring removal of the wheel, brake caliper, and hub assembly to access the outer CV joint and install a new boot with fresh grease.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠The axle nut is torqued to very high specification and may require significant force to remove. Ensure the vehicle is stable before applying force.
⚠Do not allow the brake caliper to hang by the brake hose as this can damage the hose internally. Always support with a hanger or secure wire.
ℹ️This procedure covers boot replacement without full axle removal. If the inner CV joint or axle shaft shows damage, full axle replacement may be required.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrenchEssential
Breaker barEssential
Socket set (deep and standard)Essential
Hex bit socket setEssential
Pry barEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Dead blow hammerEssential
Brake caliper hanger or wireEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Outer CV boot kit with clamps and grease × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent performance kit
- Axle nut × 1 — One-time use torque-to-yield design
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
- Loosen the wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground
- Loosen but do not remove the axle nut while the vehicle is on the ground and brake applied (this nut is extremely tight)
- Raise the vehicle and secure on jack stands at the manufacturer's specified jacking points
- Remove the wheel completely
- Inspect the CV joint for clicking noises or damage to determine if replacement is necessary beyond just the boot
Procedure
- 1Remove axle nutFully remove the center axle nut that was loosened during preparation. This is a large nut at the center of the hub assembly. Use a breaker bar and appropriate socket. Verify in the factory service manual whether the axle nut is one-time-use (torque-to-yield or staked) and replace if required.
- 2Remove brake caliperRemove the caliper mounting bolts (verify exact count) securing the fixed Brembo caliper to the mounting bracket, and torque to the factory specification on reassembly (verify exact values in the 2008 Viper service manual). Carefully slide the caliper off the rotor without disconnecting the brake hose. Support the caliper with a hanger or wire to prevent strain on the brake hose. Do not let it hang freely.
- 3Remove brake rotorIf the rotor is retained by set screws, remove them. Pull the brake rotor off the hub. If the rotor is stuck due to corrosion, tap it gently from behind with a dead blow hammer while rotating to break it free.
- 4Remove hub and bearing assemblyLocate the hub assembly mounting bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle. Remove the 4 mounting bolts securing the hub/bearing assembly to the knuckle using the appropriate socket. Pull the hub assembly off the axle shaft. If tight, tap the hub from behind with a dead blow hammer while supporting the assembly. The axle shaft will now be exposed extending through the knuckle.
- 5Disconnect outer tie rod endThis step does not apply to the 2008 Dodge Viper. The CV boots are on the rear halfshafts, which have no steering tie rod ends. Skip tie rod disconnection and instead disconnect the appropriate rear suspension links (e.g., toe/camber links) as needed to gain clearance — verify against the factory service manual.
- 6Remove lower ball jointRemove the lower ball joint pinch bolt securing the lower control arm to the steering knuckle. This allows the knuckle to pivot away from the control arm, providing better access to pull the axle shaft outward. Carefully pivot the knuckle assembly to gain working clearance on the outer CV joint.
- 7Cut and remove old outer CV bootUse side cutters or a boot clamp removal tool to cut both clamps securing the outer CV boot (one on the axle shaft side, one on the CV joint housing side). Slide the old boot away from the CV joint toward the center of the axle. Inspect the CV joint and axle shaft for wear, scoring, or damage.
- 8Clean outer CV jointWipe away all old grease from the outer CV joint, joint housing, and exposed axle shaft using shop rags. Inspect the joint balls, races, and cage for pitting, scoring, or excessive wear. Use a wire brush to clean the axle shaft where the new boot will sit. The surfaces must be clean and dry for proper boot seating.
- 9Install new outer CV boot and clampsSlide the new small boot clamp onto the axle shaft first, followed by the new CV boot (small end first). Position the small end of the boot on the smooth section of the axle shaft in the grooved area designed for the clamp. Do not secure the clamp yet. Slide the large clamp over the large end of the boot.
- 10Pack CV joint with greaseUsing the grease provided in the CV boot kit, pack the outer CV joint completely. Work grease into all the ball bearing races and around the entire joint. Use the full amount of grease provided in the kit (typically one full packet). Fill the boot approximately 50-60% with remaining grease to ensure adequate lubrication during operation.
- 11Seat and secure CV bootPull the large end of the boot over the outer CV joint housing and seat it into the groove on the housing. Ensure the boot is not twisted and sits properly in both grooves (shaft and housing). Burp the boot by carefully lifting the edge to allow trapped air to escape. Use the CV boot clamp tool to tighten and secure both clamps: first the small clamp on the axle shaft, then the large clamp on the CV joint housing. Ensure clamps are tight and properly seated.
- 12Reconnect lower ball jointPivot the steering knuckle back into position and align the lower ball joint with the control arm. Reinstall the rear suspension link fasteners that were disconnected and tighten to the factory specification (verify exact values in the 2008 Viper service manual). Ensure the joint is fully seated before tightening.
- 13Reconnect outer tie rod endInsert the outer tie rod end ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud, bending the ends to secure.
- 14Reinstall hub and bearing assemblySlide the hub and bearing assembly back onto the axle shaft, aligning the mounting bolt holes with the steering knuckle. Install the hub/bearing mounting bolts (verify exact count) and tighten in a cross pattern to the factory specification (verify exact value in the 2008 Viper service manual). The axle shaft should protrude through the center of the hub.
- 15Reinstall brake rotor and caliperSlide the brake rotor onto the hub. If equipped with set screws, install them. Position the brake caliper over the rotor and align the mounting holes. Install the 2 caliper mounting bolts and tighten to specification using a hex socket.
- 16Install new axle nut and wheelInstall the new axle nut onto the axle shaft threads and hand tighten. Reinstall the wheel and hand tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground (weight still on jack stands). Torque the axle nut to the factory specification (verify exact value in the 2008 Viper service manual) while the wheel is held stationary by ground contact. Fully lower the vehicle and torque the wheel lug nuts to the factory specification (verify exact value in the 2008 Viper service manual) in a star pattern.
Reassembly
- Torque all fasteners to manufacturer specifications in the sequence described
- Ensure the CV boot is properly seated in both grooves with no twisting or bunching
- Verify both boot clamps are securely tightened and properly positioned
- Use a new axle nut as the original is torque-to-yield design
- Check that the brake caliper moves freely and brake hose has no kinks or tension
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed and full lock (both directions) listening for clicking or popping from the CV joint
- Inspect the new CV boot for any leaking grease or improper seating
- Verify no unusual vibration at highway speeds that would indicate improper hub or axle installation
- Check that steering operates smoothly with tie rod end properly connected
- Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving