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8.4L V10RWDMANUALgas
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transmission

Flywheel Resurface

for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
9.1 h
Tools
14
Steps
21
Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

This procedure covers removal of the transmission and clutch assembly to access and resurface the flywheel on a 2008 Dodge Viper with 8.4L V10 and manual transmission.

Warnings

⚠️The Viper transmission is extremely heavy (approximately 100-120 lbs). Use a transmission jack and have an assistant available. Serious injury can occur if transmission falls.
Ensure vehicle is securely supported on jack stands rated for the weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
Clutch disc contains asbestos or similar materials. Avoid breathing dust and use appropriate respiratory protection when cleaning clutch components.
ℹ️Mark the pressure plate and flywheel orientation before removal to maintain balance if reusing pressure plate.
ℹ️While transmission is removed, inspect rear main seal, clutch hydraulics, and transmission input shaft seal for leaks.

Tools required

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Parts

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Fluids

  • Pennzoil Synchromesh 75W-90 — 4.2 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
  2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  3. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at all four corners to provide adequate working clearance underneath.
  4. Remove both rear wheels for access to rear suspension and exhaust components.
  5. Allow exhaust system to cool completely if vehicle was recently running.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Drain transmission fluid
    Place drain pan under transmission. Remove the fill/drain plug on the side of the transmission case and allow fluid to drain completely. Verify the correct drain/fill plug location for the Tremec T56 before proceeding. Reinstall plug hand-tight for now (will be torqued during reassembly).
  2. 2
    Remove exhaust system components
    Disconnect exhaust at the headers or catalytic converter flanges to provide clearance for transmission removal. Support exhaust with wire or stands. Remove exhaust hangers as necessary to lower or move exhaust out of the way. Remove the exhaust sections necessary to clear the transmission bellhousing; verify the exhaust routing for the specific 2008 Viper body style before disassembly.
  3. 3
    Disconnect driveshaft
    Mark the driveshaft flange orientation to the differential flange for proper reassembly alignment. Remove the driveshaft flange bolts at the rear differential (verify exact count against the 2008 Viper service manual before proceeding). Carefully slide driveshaft rearward to separate from transmission output shaft. Support driveshaft and remove completely or secure out of the way with wire. Inspect transmission output seal for leaks.
  4. 4
    Disconnect shift linkage and electrical connections
    Disconnect the shift linkage from the transmission by removing the linkage pins or clips at the shifter mechanism on the side of the transmission. Disconnect all electrical connectors from the transmission including reverse light switch, speed sensor, and any other wiring harnesses. Label connectors if necessary for reassembly reference.
  5. 5
    Disconnect clutch hydraulic line
    Locate the clutch slave cylinder attached to the transmission bellhousing. Disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder (may be quick-disconnect or threaded fitting depending on model year specifics). Be prepared for minor fluid spillage. Cap or plug the line to prevent further fluid loss and contamination.
  6. 6
    Support engine and transmission
    Place a transmission jack under the transmission and adjust to just contact the transmission pan. Place a floor jack with a block of wood under the engine oil pan to support engine weight once transmission mounts are disconnected. Ensure both are secure and stable.
  7. 7
    Remove transmission crossmember and mounts
    Remove the fasteners securing the transmission mount to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember mounting bolts at the frame rails (typically 2-4 bolts on each side). Lower and remove the crossmember from the vehicle. The transmission is now supported only by the transmission jack and the bellhousing connection to the engine.
  8. 8
    Remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts
    Remove all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts. These are typically located around the perimeter of the bellhousing. There are approximately 6-8 bolts of varying lengths securing the transmission to the engine block. Note the location of different length bolts for proper reinstallation. Some bolts may be accessed from above or below the vehicle.
    Ensure transmission jack is securely positioned and stable before removing the last bellhousing bolts. The transmission will become free once all bolts are removed.
  9. 9
    Remove transmission from vehicle
    With an assistant helping to stabilize and guide, carefully slide the transmission straight back away from the engine. Keep the transmission level to avoid binding the input shaft in the clutch disc and pilot bearing. Once the input shaft clears the clutch assembly, lower the transmission jack and roll transmission out from under the vehicle. The transmission is very heavy; work slowly and carefully.
  10. 10
    Mark and remove pressure plate
    Use a marker or paint pen to mark the pressure plate position relative to the flywheel for balanced reinstallation if reusing the pressure plate. Install flywheel holding tool or wedge a large pry bar between the flywheel teeth and bellhousing to prevent rotation. Gradually loosen the pressure plate mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern, loosening each bolt a little at a time to release spring pressure evenly. Remove all bolts and carefully remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not drop the clutch disc.
  11. 11
    Remove flywheel
    With flywheel holding tool still in place, remove the flywheel mounting bolts. These are high-strength bolts securing the flywheel to the crankshaft flange. Remove all bolts and carefully lift the flywheel off the crankshaft. The flywheel is heavy; verify exact flywheel bolt count against the 2008 Viper V10 service manual before removal. Inspect the crankshaft flange and dowel pins for damage.
  12. 12
    Inspect and prepare flywheel for resurfacing
    Inspect the flywheel friction surface for heat checking, cracks, hard spots, and excessive wear. Measure flywheel thickness with a micrometer if specification is available. Clean the flywheel thoroughly with solvent and wire brush, removing all debris and oil. Take the flywheel to a qualified machine shop for resurfacing. Specify that minimal material should be removed (typically 0.010-0.020 inches maximum). Ensure machine shop checks flywheel for warpage and runout. Do not resurface if flywheel is below minimum thickness specification or excessively warped.
  13. 13
    Inspect and replace pilot bearing and rear main seal
    While flywheel is removed, inspect the pilot bearing in the center of the crankshaft. Replace pilot bearing if rough, noisy, or as preventive maintenance (recommended). Inspect the rear main seal for leaks; replace if any seepage is visible. This is the ideal time to address these components as access is already available.
  14. 14
    Install resurfaced flywheel
    Once flywheel returns from machine shop, clean the crankshaft flange and flywheel mounting surface with solvent. Ensure dowel pins are in place in crankshaft flange. Align flywheel to crankshaft using dowel pins and install all flywheel bolts. Install flywheel holding tool. Tighten flywheel bolts in a crisscross pattern to proper torque specification in multiple steps. Final torque must be verified with the manufacturer specification for the 2008 Viper 8.4L V10 flywheel bolts. Do not rely on a generic value — consult the FSM for the exact torque (and any torque-angle sequence or new-bolt requirement) before final tightening.
    Flywheel bolts are critical fasteners. Use new bolts if specified by manufacturer or if thread-locking compound is pre-applied. Do not reuse bolts if they are stretch-type fasteners.
  15. 15
    Install clutch disc and pressure plate
    Clean the resurfaced flywheel surface with brake cleaner to remove any oils or contaminants. Install new or inspected clutch disc using clutch alignment tool to center the disc on the flywheel. The clutch disc is directional; ensure the side marked 'flywheel side' or with the larger hub faces the flywheel. Position the pressure plate over the clutch disc, aligning with the marks made during removal (if reusing) or evenly spacing the dowel holes. Install all pressure plate bolts finger-tight. Gradually tighten the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern to the manufacturer-specified torque (verify exact value against the 2008 Viper service manual) to evenly compress the pressure plate springs. Leave the clutch alignment tool in place until transmission installation.
  16. 16
    Prepare transmission for installation
    Inspect and replace throw-out bearing if necessary (recommended). Lubricate the transmission input shaft splines lightly with high-temperature grease. Replace transmission input shaft seal if any leakage was noted during removal. Clean the bellhousing mating surface on both the transmission and engine block.
  17. 17
    Install transmission
    With transmission on transmission jack, carefully roll transmission into position under vehicle. Raise transmission into alignment with engine. With an assistant guiding, slide transmission forward, aligning the input shaft with the clutch alignment tool and clutch disc. The input shaft must slide through the clutch disc and into the pilot bearing. Do not force; if binding occurs, adjust angle and alignment. Once the transmission bellhousing mates flush with the engine block, remove the clutch alignment tool through the bellhousing opening if accessible, or it will slide out as the transmission moves forward.
  18. 18
    Install bellhousing bolts and crossmember
    Install all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts in their original locations. Tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern to ensure even seating. Torque all bellhousing bolts to the manufacturer-specified value (verify exact torque and bolt locations/lengths against the 2008 Viper T56 service manual before final tightening). Raise transmission into position and install the transmission crossmember to the frame rails. Install and tighten crossmember bolts. Install transmission mount to crossmember fasteners. Remove transmission jack and engine support jack.
  19. 19
    Reconnect all components
    Reconnect clutch hydraulic line to slave cylinder and ensure proper seating. Reconnect all electrical connectors to transmission (reverse light switch, speed sensor, etc.). Reconnect shift linkage to transmission shift mechanism, ensuring smooth operation through all gears. Install driveshaft, aligning marks made during removal. Torque driveshaft flange bolts to the manufacturer-specified value (verify exact torque against the 2008 Viper service manual). Reinstall exhaust system components and hangers, ensuring proper clearance and alignment. Torque exhaust flange bolts as specified.
  20. 20
    Refill transmission and bleed clutch
    Refill transmission with the manufacturer-specified fluid type and quantity for the 2008 Viper Tremec T56 (verify exact capacity and fluid specification against the service manual before filling). Reinstall fill plug and torque to specification. Bleed clutch hydraulic system if hydraulic line was disconnected: pump clutch pedal multiple times, hold pedal down, open bleeder on slave cylinder, close bleeder before releasing pedal. Repeat until firm pedal is achieved with no air bubbles. Top off clutch master cylinder reservoir as needed with the brake fluid grade specified on the reservoir cap / in the 2008 Viper service manual (typically DOT 3 or DOT 4 — verify before adding).
  21. 21
    Final inspection and reinstallation
    Reinstall both rear wheels and torque lug nuts to specification. Lower vehicle from jack stands. Reconnect negative battery cable. Double-check all fasteners, connections, and fluid levels. Check for any tools or parts left in the engine bay or under the vehicle.

Reassembly

  1. Ensure clutch alignment tool is used during clutch disc installation to properly center disc for transmission input shaft entry.
  2. Tighten pressure plate bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern to prevent warping the pressure plate.
  3. Apply thread-locking compound to flywheel bolts if specified by manufacturer or if bolts do not have pre-applied compound.
  4. Verify transmission input shaft slides freely through clutch disc before forcing transmission into position.
  5. Torque all critical fasteners (flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, bellhousing bolts, driveshaft bolts) to proper specifications in multiple steps using a crisscross pattern.
  6. Bleed clutch hydraulic system thoroughly if hydraulic line was disconnected.

Verification

  • Start engine and verify no abnormal noises from clutch or transmission area.
  • With engine running, depress clutch pedal and shift through all gears to verify smooth engagement.
  • Test drive vehicle and verify smooth clutch engagement and disengagement with no slipping, chattering, or abnormal noises.
  • Check for fluid leaks around transmission, rear main seal, and clutch hydraulic connections after test drive.
  • Verify proper clutch pedal feel with full engagement and disengagement travel.
  • Check transmission fluid level after test drive and top off if necessary.
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