fuel
Fuel Tank
for 2017 Dodge Viper 8.4L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
4.7 h
Tools
15
Steps
12
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Complete fuel tank removal and replacement procedure for the 2008 Dodge Viper, including fuel system depressurization, exhaust and suspension component removal, and tank extraction from beneath the vehicle.
Warnings
⚠️FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARD: Gasoline is extremely flammable. Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area with no ignition sources within 50 feet (no pilot lights, water heaters, sparks, cigarettes, or running engines). Have a Class B fire extinguisher immediately accessible.
⚠️TOXIC FUMES: Gasoline vapors are toxic and heavier than air. Work in open air or with forced ventilation. Never work in a pit or enclosed space where vapors can accumulate.
⚠️CRUSHING HAZARD: The fuel tank when full weighs over 150 lbs. Use a transmission jack or equivalent support. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠️FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE: The fuel system operates at high pressure (55-60 PSI). Failure to properly depressurize before disconnecting lines will cause fuel spray and potential fire.
⚠Fuel spillage will damage paint and plastic components. Cover surrounding areas and clean spills immediately with water.
⚠If you are uncertain about any step in this procedure, consult a professional technician. Errors in fuel system work can result in fire, explosion, or vehicle loss.
Tools required
Fuel line disconnect tool setEssential
Socket set (10mm-19mm)Essential
Safety glassesEssential
Fuel-resistant glovesEssential
Fire extinguisher (Class B minimum)Essential
Wheel chocksEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Fuel tank × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Fuel tank strap bolts (if corroded) × 4 — Use OEM specification
- Fuel filler neck O-ring × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Fuel tank shield bolts (if corroded) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Fuel line quick-connect O-rings × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle outdoors on level concrete surface away from all ignition sources. Apply parking brake and chock front wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery cable and isolate terminal to prevent any electrical sparks during fuel system work.
- Remove fuel filler cap to relieve any tank pressure.
- If tank is more than 1/4 full, siphon or pump fuel into approved fuel storage containers to reduce weight and spillage risk. The Viper fuel tank capacity is approximately 18 gallons.
- Allow vehicle to sit for at least 30 minutes after last engine operation to allow exhaust system and fuel components to cool completely.
- Raise vehicle on jack stands to provide adequate working clearance beneath vehicle. Minimum 24 inches of clearance recommended. Support vehicle at manufacturer-specified jack points.
- Place drain pans and absorbent material beneath fuel tank area to catch residual fuel.
Procedure
- 1Depressurize fuel systemWith negative battery cable already disconnected, remove the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center / integrated power module (under hood) — verify relay location against the 2008 Viper OEM diagram. With the relay removed, reconnect the battery temporarily, start the engine, and allow it to run until it stalls from fuel starvation (typically 10-30 seconds). Attempt to restart 2-3 times to ensure all pressure is relieved. Once complete, disconnect the negative battery cable again and reinstall the fuel pump relay (do not reconnect battery yet). Fuel system is now depressurized.e all pressure is relieved. Once complete, disconnect the negative battery cable again and reinstall the fuel pump relay (do not reconnect battery yet). Fuel system is now depressurized.⚠️Engine will run briefly then stall. This is normal and necessary to depressurize the fuel system. Do not attempt to drive vehicle.
- 2Remove rear fascia lower sectionWorking at the rear of the vehicle, locate and remove the fasteners securing the lower rear fascia/diffuser section. This typically involves removing Torx fasteners along the bottom edge and sides of the diffuser panel. Carefully pull the lower fascia section away to access the fuel filler neck area. Set aside in a safe location where it will not be damaged.ℹ️Fascia clips may be brittle. Use plastic pry tools and work carefully to avoid breakage.
- 3Disconnect fuel filler neckLocate the fuel filler neck connection at the rear of the vehicle where it connects to the tank. Loosen the hose clamp securing the filler neck to the tank using a flathead screwdriver or appropriate socket. Disconnect any vent lines attached to the filler neck area by releasing clamps or pressing quick-connect tabs. Carefully separate the filler neck from the tank inlet. Expect residual fuel spillage; have absorbent material ready.⚠Residual fuel will drain from filler neck. Keep drain pan positioned to catch spillage.
- 4Disconnect EVAP and vent linesLocate the EVAP canister lines and fuel tank vent lines connected to the top of the fuel tank. These are typically quick-connect fittings. Press the release tabs on each quick-connect fitting and pull the lines straight off the tank connections. There are typically 2-3 lines in this area. Mark or photograph line positions for reassembly reference.ℹ️Quick-connect fittings require pressing release tabs while pulling. Do not pry or force connections.
- 5Disconnect fuel lines at tankLocate the fuel line(s) at the front of the fuel tank. These are quick-connect fittings, typically requiring a fuel line disconnect tool. Insert the appropriate size disconnect tool into each fitting, push toward the tank to release the internal locking mechanism, and pull the line straight off. Expect residual fuel release from the lines. Cap or plug open lines to prevent contamination and further spillage. Verify the exact number of fuel lines against OEM documentation (the system may be returnless with a single supply line).ation and further spillage. There are typically 2 main fuel lines (supply and return).⚠Fuel will spray when lines are disconnected. Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves. Have absorbent material ready.
- 6Disconnect electrical connectorsLocate the fuel pump module electrical connector on top of the fuel tank (access from beneath vehicle). Press the connector release tab and disconnect the main fuel pump harness connector. If present, disconnect any additional connectors for fuel level sensors or fuel pump control modules. Secure disconnected harnesses away from tank removal path using zip ties or wire.
- 7Remove exhaust system sectionThe exhaust system routing on the Viper may interfere with tank removal. Working from beneath the vehicle, locate the exhaust hanger locations near the fuel tank area. Using a socket wrench, disconnect the exhaust hangers or support brackets as necessary to lower or move the exhaust pipes clear of the tank. On some configurations, the rear section of the exhaust may need to be completely removed. Support the exhaust with a jack or wire to prevent damage to hangers and prevent binding during tank removal.⚠Exhaust components may still be warm even after extended cooling time. Verify temperature before handling.
- 8Remove fuel tank heat shieldLocate the metal heat shield attached to the underside of the vehicle above the fuel tank. This shield protects the tank from exhaust heat. Remove the mounting bolts securing the heat shield (typically 6-8 bolts around the perimeter). Lower the heat shield and set aside. This shield may be multiple pieces; remove all sections that obstruct tank access.
- 9Support fuel tank with transmission jackPosition a transmission jack or equivalent under the center of the fuel tank. Raise the jack until it contacts the tank bottom and provides firm support, but do not lift the tank yet. Ensure the jack is positioned to balance the tank weight evenly. Use a wide wooden pad on the jack saddle if necessary to distribute load and prevent tank damage.⚠️Tank must be securely supported before strap removal. Failure to properly support tank will cause it to fall when straps are released.
- 10Remove fuel tank strap boltsLocate the fuel tank support straps that wrap around the tank and bolt to the vehicle frame — verify strap count and bolt count against OEM documentation (commonly two straps). Note how each strap is secured (bolt at one or both ends). Apply penetrating oil to the strap bolts if corrosion is present, and allow to soak for 5-10 minutes. Using a socket wrench, remove the 4 strap mounting bolts. The straps will pivot down once the bolts are removed. Keep bolts organized for reinstallation or replacement if corroded.⚠Strap bolts may be severely corroded. Use penetrating oil and allow adequate soak time to prevent bolt breakage.
- 11Lower and remove fuel tankWith the straps removed and tank supported by the jack, slowly lower the transmission jack while guiding the tank down and toward the rear of the vehicle. Watch for any remaining connections, wires, or hoses that may still be attached. The tank will need to be angled and maneuvered to clear frame rails and suspension components as it is lowered. Once clear of the vehicle, lower the jack completely and roll the tank to a safe work area. Have a second person assist with guiding and balancing the tank during removal.⚠️Tank is heavy and awkward. Use controlled movements and have an assistant help guide the tank during removal. Do not allow tank to fall or drop.⚠Verify all connections are disconnected before lowering. Forcing tank down with connected lines will damage components.
- 12Remove fuel pump module (if reusing tank)If reusing the existing fuel tank, remove the fuel pump module for transfer to the new tank or for tank cleaning. The fuel pump module is secured by a large lock ring on top of the tank. Using a brass punch and hammer (or fuel pump lock ring tool), tap the lock ring counterclockwise to loosen. Once loose, unscrew the lock ring by hand and lift it off. Carefully lift the fuel pump module straight up out of the tank, tilting as necessary to clear the internal float arm. Expect residual fuel to drain from the pump assembly. Inspect the pump mounting seal/O-ring and replace if damaged.⚠Do not use steel punches or tools that can create sparks near fuel vapors. Use brass or non-sparking tools only.
Reassembly
- If installing a new fuel tank, transfer the fuel pump module from the old tank to the new tank. Install a new fuel pump module seal/O-ring. Secure the module with the lock ring, tightening clockwise until firm resistance is felt.
- Clean all fuel line connections and inspect O-rings. Replace any damaged quick-connect O-rings or seals before reconnection.
- Position the fuel tank on the transmission jack and raise it into position beneath the vehicle. An assistant should guide the tank into place while ensuring no wires or lines are pinched.
- Install the fuel tank support straps and secure with the mounting bolts. If original bolts are corroded, replace with new bolts of appropriate grade. Torque specifications for tank strap bolts are not available in the database; tighten bolts firmly and evenly.
- Reinstall the fuel tank heat shield with all mounting bolts.
- Reconnect all fuel lines using firm pressure until quick-connect fittings click into place. Verify each connection by pulling on the line to confirm it is locked.
- Reconnect all EVAP and vent lines to their original positions. Verify routing matches pre-removal photographs.
- Reconnect the fuel pump module electrical connector, ensuring it clicks fully into place.
- Reconnect the fuel filler neck to the tank inlet. Install a new filler neck O-ring if the original shows wear. Secure with the hose clamp, ensuring clamp is positioned over the raised bead on the neck.
- Reinstall exhaust system components and secure all hangers and brackets.
- Reinstall the rear fascia lower section with all original fasteners.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Refill the fuel tank with a minimum of 5 gallons of fresh gasoline to ensure adequate fuel for priming.
Verification
- Before starting the engine, turn the ignition key to the ON position (without cranking) for 2 seconds, then OFF. Repeat this cycle 3-4 times to allow the fuel pump to prime the system and build pressure.
- Inspect all fuel line connections, filler neck, and tank mounting area for fuel leaks while the system is pressurized (key ON, engine off).
- Start the engine and allow it to idle. Inspect all connections again for leaks while engine is running and fuel system is at full operating pressure.
- Check for proper fuel gauge operation by observing the fuel level reading matches the amount of fuel added.
- Test drive the vehicle and monitor for any fuel odors, leaks, or fuel system warning lights. Re-inspect all connections after test drive.
- Verify no check engine light or fuel system fault codes are present using a scan tool if available.